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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,
I search the threads and learned quite a lot, but still have some things not clear.
First, I have a Nuvi 360 which is loading dust in the closet, and I think it is just fine for me.
So I learned the following:
1. A Pat Welsh Shelf can hold the mount
2. I can get a screw in a mount into the shelf. If anybody has a recommend screw in mount for Nuvi 360 - please do.
I saw a RAM Mount, but it looks kind of tall. Wouldn't it touch the windshield (Stock BTW).
Ram Mount Nuvi 3xx Series Screw Down Plate Mount (RAM-B-138-GA21U)

3. An EB P-8 fuse box is recommended.

What I don't understand is how to wire..
How do I lay the electric wire between the battery/fuse-box and the shelf?
How does the wire go behind/around the dash board without interfering with the steering?
Should I cut the the GPS charger chord? (Red arrow or Green Arrow)


Sorry - a bit Noob on this..but learning..!
 

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I too am wiring up a gps unit...a nuvi 780 from eBay. As I understand it, you can't cut the car adapter and hardwire it in because the car adapter also converts the volts. I found a hardwire component (search for "nuvi 360 hardwire") that has bare leads to connect to my EB fuze box and a voltage converter in the middle of the cable.
 

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Hi,
I search the threads and learned quite a lot, but still have some things not clear.
First, I have a Nuvi 360 which is loading dust in the closet, and I think it is just fine for me.
So I learned the following:
1. A Pat Welsh Shelf can hold the mount
2. I can get a screw in a mount into the shelf. If anybody has a recommend screw in mount for Nuvi 360 - please do.
I saw a RAM Mount, but it looks kind of tall. Wouldn't it touch the windshield (Stock BTW).
Ram Mount Nuvi 3xx Series Screw Down Plate Mount (RAM-B-138-GA21U)

3. An EB P-8 fuse box is recommended.

What I don't understand is how to wire..
How do I lay the electric wire between the battery/fuse-box and the shelf?
How does the wire go behind/around the dash board without interfering with the steering?
Should I cut the the GPS charger chord? (Red arrow or Green Arrow)


Sorry - a bit Noob on this..but learning..!
Just a thought, but why cut the power/converter wire at all. You can wire a simple cigar lighter socket into the Pat Walsh shelf and then just plug into it. Then you have killed two birds with one stone. You now have accessible power on the shelf for U name it. (air compressor) The converter has it's own fuse, so you can wire the cigar socket with 10 gauge and 30a fuse. :yesnod: This 2/wire 10g will come from both battery terminals and follow the frame with zip ties to secure, similar to any wire coming up to front of the bike, and then it will route up into the area under the windshield bracket to pass through a hole drilled into the bracket housing under the shelf. Excess wire from the converter can be rolled up neatly out of the way as you please. This method leaves the converter in tact for emergency use in your cage.:thumbup:
The suction cup mount can be riveted directly to the shelf by drilling 4, 1/8 in holes in the perimeter of the base.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
@TheCopperOne: Thanks, will look into it.

@HonestBob: Great idea and excellent descriptions.
and then it will route up into the area under the windshield bracket to pass through a hole drilled into the bracket housing under the shelf.
Not sure I fully understand you. So I have 10g line going from the battery along the shield all the way to the front.
How does the line go up to the shelf? Can it go from behind the dashboard (between the dashboard and winshield, see blue arrow in image below)?


Is there some method that does not require drilling the bike? Or did you mean only drilling the shelf it self so the line comes from the bottom?

Thanks!
 

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You can run the wires from the battery along the frame and up by the gas tank. There's a really good gap between it andthe mount for the tank. Then along the fairing and then fished up in the gap on the front cowl by the windshield mount. Use zip ties & 3M adhesive tabs to keep it out of the way and hidden.
 

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@TheCopperOne: Thanks, will look into it.

@HonestBob: Great idea and excellent descriptions.

Not sure I fully understand you. So I have 10g line going from the battery along the shield all the way to the front.
How does the line go up to the shelf? Can it go from behind the dashboard (between the dashboard and winshield, see blue arrow in image below)?




Is there some method that does not require drilling the bike? Or did you mean only drilling the shelf it self so the line comes from the bottom?

Thanks!
If you don't want to drill, look down a little lower to where the lower windshield bolts go in and you will see a space/hole under each of them that is about 1.5" long and 1/2' wide. The windshield bracket kind of slides in there. Lots of room for the wire to exit there on either side of the bracket feet. You will be able to see the wire thru the shield when the wire has been installed but a little hot melt glue, to hold it straight, and/or use of black wire should make it nearly invisible. Sorry, I was suggesting you drill through the plastic in my original description.:thumbdown:and yes, you would then drill through the shelf a hole large enough for the cigar lighter. You can buy a cigar lighter that is for marine use, ie; water proofed. Cigarette Lighter Plug Socket - Marine rated for Boat Use - 12 & 24 Volt Use - CP-S-1 - www.MagnaLight.com Spotlights and Flashlights If you tell Pat the Diameter of the hole you want and it's location, I think he may do it for you before it's powder coated. Keep in mind that the socket will stick down below the plate so you will want it located so it won't interfere with the gauges. Pat can probably advise you. Good luck with the install, and don't hesitate to ask if you need more help.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
@10-95: Thanks, will follow this direction
@Honest Bob: Thanks a lot, hopefully I'll stay out of trouble but if I get stuck would ask for your help.

Maybe I'll fully document this for future generations when I start this mini project - I wish there was a very detailed guide for all of these DIY farkles, but a guide that would not assume any prior knowledge of lingo/advanced skills - as in a 'guide for noobs'.
 

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Bob gives great advice... I have a 12v socket that gets it's power from a bluesea fuseblock. I have a ram mount in the middle of the windshield and on the right handlebar. I prefer the handlebar mount for my nuvi.

 

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@10-95: Thanks, will follow this direction
@Honest Bob: Thanks a lot, hopefully I'll stay out of trouble but if I get stuck would ask for your help.

Maybe I'll fully document this for future generations when I start this mini project - I wish there was a very detailed guide for all of these DIY farkles, but a guide that would not assume any prior knowledge of lingo/advanced skills - as in a 'guide for noobs'.
Oh, I'm sorry, you want "Farkle 101 for Dummies". Not out yet.:green_lol: I wanted a copy of that when I started out too :beatnik:. But now I'm glad it wasn't available. I did it "My Way".:hurray: And darn proud of it, and darn thankful for this forum and the people who day after day reach out to help with their knowledge, and for the people who acknowledge that they have been helped. Your more than welcome BigMan73.
By all means document your project. You would be surprised how it will benefit someone. You may even come back to it in a few years and say, so that's how I fastened this or that.:yesnod:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Oh, I'm sorry, you want "Farkle 101 for Dummies". Not out yet.
Hey, that's a great idea for a book and/or website..

Bob, although I completely agree about the re-use factor, the problem with the lighter approach is that it is a bit complicated. To do it properly I need a fuse box. I like the idea a lot just not crazy about implementing it myself. ("Know your limits"..)

So here's a question, since the bike's instruments in the cockpit already get 12V and since the GPS does not really require much Amps, couldn't I just build a simple 12V->5V regulator (With a small inline fuse) and hook it up to existing wiring?
 

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If you cut the male end off the Nuvi's cord, and then wire it directly, you will probably not like the results. I agree with a previous poster that there are probably voltage reduction electronics inside the male end. Wiring directly will supply a full 12 volts to a GPS designed to work on less.

If you leave the cord intact, and power it from a female cigarette plug, you will most likey have intermittent connection issues. I have yet to see a socket that does not have this issue, and I have tried several types. In the end, I just got a motorcycle specific Zumo, which wires directly to 12V power and is also waterproof.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I've decided to get a hard wire kit - it costs about $20 and transforms 12V->5V. Easy and cheap solution, I gave it some thought and I honestly don't need a 12V cigar lighter in the dashboard. If later, in the future, I need a 12V cigar lighter it won't be in the dashboard but on the side of the bike near the battery.

So I'm also thinking of coupling it with an EB 3CS kit.

The GPS is going to be attached to a 'Strombone' through a RAM combo, and the strombone is going to be attached to a madstad.

So, there - I will have all the initial farkels I need in one shot.. :thumbup:

Oh wait a second.. I forgot the PWD Stebel horn kit.. now I'll be fine.

A Givi top case would also be great, but it would also make the bike look like a Pizza bike. :biggrinjester:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Fuse holder

UPDATE: Madstad + Strombone GPS Mount + RAM hardware ordered and on the way to me (and also the PWD Stebel horn kit, but that's a different story)

Few more questions to the Gurus about wiring:
If I get the hard wire 12V->5V converter, I'd like to put a fuse to protect the bike and the GPS. Seems to me that 2A is adequate (Is it? Question #1).
I only plan to use it for charging low powered USB devices.

This is the kit I am thinking of:
Amazon.com: Garmin Nuvi Hardwire Cable (Mini-USB connector) for Garmin Nuvi: Electronics

The RAM cradle for Nuvi needs the original up angle compact USB mini B.
I plan to cut the original Garmin car lighter cable (the one I took photo of earlier in the thread) and use that compact connector (If I ever need this GPS for the car I would simply buy a new one for $150 or less.)

Since I want the GPS to be switched and also fuse protected I thought of the
"The 3 Circuit Solution (3CS) for VStrom" From EB.

2 switched + 1 or 3 switched will cover all my needs. I don't plan to Farkle anything (electric) else (maybe a 12V lighter to the side of the bike, but really last priority for me, only nice to have)

So the 2nd question:
Does it make sense to use the 3CS kit? (Maybe better to have the GPS unswitched and always hot and then I can solve the fuse problem with a $3 inline fuse holder). It is sometimes annoying to have the GPS switch off automatically and then reboot (or you have to rush for the screen to keep it alive).

Your comments and ideas are welcome.
:yesnod:
 

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The RAM cradle for Nuvi needs the original up angle compact USB mini B. I plan to cut the original Garmin car lighter cable (the one I took photo of earlier in the thread) and use that compact connector (If I ever need this GPS for the car I would simply buy a new one for $150 or less.)
What about notching out the RAM cradle so the hardwire plug fits?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
What about notching out the RAM cradle so the hardwire plug fits?
Well I can do it - but currently I don't have the hardwire plug and I do have the Garmin charger (which I really don't mind cutting - I have another Garmin in the Mini Van and the Nuvi charger is useless to me).

I think I was able to answer my own questions to some extent...after reading many Stromtrooper threads today.
1. Greywolf recommended a 2A fuse for a GPS in some thread. made sense, if the regular charging current is about 1A.
2. 3CS would work, but I'm re-thinking now - maybe instead of getting the Garmin Hard-wire kit, I might simply connect a 12V Cigar Female Socket to the 3CS and then connect the Garmin car charger I currently have (12V Male Cigar) into it??
I can get the wire to run between the output of the Garmin GPS charger and the input of the USB connector (the OEM cable that I intend to cut in half).
The benefit of this arrangement is to re-use what I have and maybe to be able to use the 12V female socket for other appliances in the future if needed. But of course I'll have to change the 2A fuse in that case..

Not sure :confused: (the Garmin hard-wire is cheaper and easier: I also get 6 ft' and just need to cut and solder the original connector, and no need with mess with cradle notching)
 

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I too want to mount a GPS, nuvi 255w, (its what I have) I would like to mount it to the center of the bars with that cheap mount dustinleavit found on e-bay. As far as power, I am leaning toward using the car power cord plugged in to a cigarette socket, but how are those sockets in the weather? I think eastern beaver says theirs is water proof but how can that be unless you mount the thing upside down?

I plan to cover the GPS in the rain but have a hard time seeing how a "cigarette lighter" socket is waterproof
 

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I too want to mount a GPS, nuvi 255w, (its what I have) I would like to mount it to the center of the bars with that cheap mount dustinleavit found on e-bay. As far as power, I am leaning toward using the car power cord plugged in to a cigarette socket, but how are those sockets in the weather? I think eastern beaver says theirs is water proof but how can that be unless you mount the thing upside down?

I plan to cover the GPS in the rain but have a hard time seeing how a "cigarette lighter" socket is waterproof
The cig plugs are (almost) water proof. :mrgreen: More like water resistant.
The spring loaded cap is sealed when closed but obviously not when there's something plugged into it.
I posted a pic of mine, it's horizontal under my dash shelf. Water doesn't get into it and I've ridden in many rainstorms. I use an aquabox for the nuvi.


Ken
 

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Discussion Starter #19
If I was going to use the Walsh dash,I would go with this All-Weather Power Outlet (Standard Adapter Plug) :: Aerostich/RiderWearHouse Motorcycle Jackets, Suits, Clothing, & Gear

Personally I like to have a cigarette outlet and the BMW style powerlet. I can charge a phone, Air compressor, heated clothes or GPS.
I just received today this 12V Cigar socket:
Amazon.com: RoadPro RPPS-16ES 12V 6' Extension Power Cord with Cigarette Lighter Socket: Automotive

Looks pretty much the same..just cheaper
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Some more advice needed from the Gurus here:

So I have the mechanical part figured out, the GPS mount is installed and working great.
I'm going to get this Battery Tender terminal SAE harness:
Amazon.com: Battery Tender 081-0069-6 Ring Terminal Harness with Black Fused 2-Pin Quick Disconnect Plug: Automotive

It would connect to another SAE harness (the alligator one I got with the Battery Tender Jr.) that I plan to cut and connect using Posi-Lock to the 12V cigar socket I got.
The reason I'm doing this is to allow a modular setting if I decide to connect something else in the future. (I can also hard wire the ring terminal directly to the 12V socket, but since I have the parts already, I figured why not do it modular).
The Nuvi 360 would be wired from the front harness all the way under the back seat to the 12V cigar socket.

OK - so the questions are:
What wire should I use to connect the output of the Nuvi 12V->5V charger under the seat to the GPS unit in the front?
16 gauge seems enough, but the problem is how to fabricate such a dual wire?
Should I get two wires, one black the other red, and wrap them up with some tape? Is there any recommend tape? Or should I shrink tube (sheath?) the whole thing?
I searched in Amazon and found 100' bulk 16-gauge primary wire: (~$11)
Amazon.com: Coleman Cable 16-100-11 Primary Wire, 16-Gauge 100-Feet Bulk Spool, Black: Home Improvement

But I need two of these where I think I only need about a few ft per wire, not 100ft.
Or maybe use one color and make sure I keep polarity right..I guess some paint at the ends would do the trick in order to identify the polarity.
Is there some more cost effective solution?
Is this a correct approach?

Thanks!
 
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