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Discussion Starter #1
I bottomed out on my bike recently, and now there's a hole in the tray under the seat on my VStrom. Obviously, I need to get a shock rebuild done and then replace the tray under the seat. This is what I plan to do when time/ funds allow, but for now I would like to patch this hole so water doesn't get in. Does anyone have any ideas?

I heard someone online got some plastic shavings of ABS plastic, let them sit in MEK for a day and it turned them into a goo that he could spread over his holes, let dry and paint. Has anyone heard of this before? Can anyone confirm if the tray under the seat is ABS plastic (how do I check?)?

Anyone have a tray or rear shock for a DL1000K7 they want to part with for reasonable price? Old shock is ok as I'll send it in to Sasquatch or someone for a rebuild.

Any other ideas. Doesn't have to look pretty, just would like the hole gone. Here's some pics. About the size of a quarter.

From the top down:




From the bottom:
 

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I had a friend that made a putty/paste of ABS and other plastics to repair his poor skimmer. It can work but might take a while to get the consistency you want. You'll ned dto clean the parent material for a good bond too.
Or you could cut a piece of plastic and pop rivet a band-aid over the hole a use silicon to seal it off.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I had a friend that made a putty/paste of ABS and other plastics to repair his poor skimmer. It can work but might take a while to get the consistency you want. You'll ned dto clean the parent material for a good bond too.
Or you could cut a piece of plastic and pop rivet a band-aid over the hole a use silicon to seal it off.
Yeah, I've thought about band-aiding it with a piece of aluminum or something. How did your friend make this putty?

I'm just worried that by riveting or screwing down anything, if I bottom out again before I can upgrade the shock, the screws might go into the tire rather than just rub if I can put on a compound like a putty. Then I would be in even more trouble.
 

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My bike is down with an electrical issue at the company garage so I can't check; but if it's the same material as the belly cowl I believe it's HDPE and ABS cement won't work.
 

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It looks like a crack has formed on one side. It should be stop-drilled first to prevent the spreading of the crack. Just drill a small hole at the end of the crack. I would use fiberglass cloth with epoxy. Just rough up the plastic where you will be bonding to.
 

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How did your friend make this putty?
He took a few bits of the plastic and added the solvent for that plastic and let it marinate. You'll have to experiment.
My friend is now very dead and I can't ask how he did it no more.
 

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No experience here, but how about one of the JB Weld products? If they won't cover the hole, maybe a small piece of plastic or aluminum JB Weld'd over the hole?
 

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If you're just looking to keep out moisture until a permanent fix is made, why not duct tape? Use aluminum tape - as used for actual ductwork - if you have something against the non-metallic variety. - Red Green.

Maybe a small sheet of Kydex, heated over a form for proper shape, and siliconed in place?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the suggestions guys!!

I tried the cheapest route first, Gorilla tape on both sides. We'll see how she holds up.
 

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You need this stuff:

PLASTEX PLASTIC REPAIR KITS

I used it to repair the tabs on the farings on my PC800 and it works amazingly well. Perfect for what you want to do.

The kit comes with a small brick of material that you can heat up to make a mold for the part you're repairing. There's some good videos on their site of how to use the stuff. I recommend it highly.

Tim
 

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Fiberglass cloth and resin will work

I had to rebuild one of the rear cowling pieces a few years ago

after a shot of paint you could not tell which one was damaged
 
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