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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2016 DL650 and I find that I have to rotate the handlebars back a ways to avoid pain in my left shoulder. Rotating the handlebars and mirrors is easy of course, but an unfortunate side effect is that now I get pain in my throttle hand/wrist because of the new throttle position. In other words, now my hand has to twist from a lower angle to apply the throttle.

Is there any way to rotate the whole throttle assembly forward to compensate for the handlebars being rotated back towards me? On my other bike this is not possible / easy since the throttle assembly is drilled into the bar. Not sure the Strom is the same way but thought I'd ask before I start disassembling it.
 

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You can just take a chisel or Dremel and knock the plastic nub off. Not sure how rotating the throttle would solve your problem, as the throttle will still be at the same angle relative to your arm/body. Your solution is either going to be a new bar with different sweep, reach, and rise, or a bar back.
 

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I had all sorts of shoulder pain on a 1978 BMW R80. I was doing a lot of cross country riding and I finally got the handle bars just right to eliminate the discomfort.
I also make the adjustment to the grip position so that the hands lay comfortably.
You can loosen the handlebar bolts and try rotating them around along with the grip adjustment. Hopefully you'll get lucky!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Maybe I'm not describing the problem very well.

Because the bars are rotated more towards me, the angle of my hand in relation to my wrist / arm is at a more extreme angle (let's say 80 degrees) when at full throttle, and my elbow is lower. This causes pain in the tendons of the top of my hand from the extreme angle from twisting the throttle over time. I would like to rotate the throttle assembly forward so the position at full throttle would put the hand / wrist angle at a shallower angle, with my elbow higher. Basically, return it to the angle it's at when the bars are further forward, but keeping the bars where they are because that relieves my shoulder pain.

Without any modifications to the bike, my two current options are pain in my shoulder with bars rotated back, or pain in my hand when they rotated forward. Grip puppies and throttle locks are for increasing grip comfort and / or relief from long distance cramping, which are not my current problems.
 

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Maybe I'm not describing the problem very well.
I would like to rotate the throttle assembly forward so the position at full throttle would put the hand / wrist angle at a shallower angle, with my elbow higher. Is there any way to rotate the whole throttle assembly forward to compensate for the handlebars being rotated back towards me?
Yes, you can rotate the right-hand assembly forward. Not as much as you might want, maybe, but yes.
The cables, wires, mirror, handguard and brake reservoir are also going to rotate. [I'm assuming your 2016 /650 is the same]

If you were to lay a straight edge (6" ruler, etc) across the throttle grip and the front brake lever ... you wouldn't want it to be parallel with the floor. Just loosen it up enough to rotate and see if the restrictions are within your needs. If not, then the other choices, as already mentioned, like bar backs or a different handle bar are worth the effort.

This is where a good brick and mortar bike shop becomes your best friend.
 

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Maybe I'm not describing the problem very well.

Because the bars are rotated more towards me, the angle of my hand in relation to my wrist / arm is at a more extreme angle (let's say 80 degrees) when at full throttle, and my elbow is lower. This causes pain in the tendons of the top of my hand from the extreme angle from twisting the throttle over time. I would like to rotate the throttle assembly forward so the position at full throttle would put the hand / wrist angle at a shallower angle, with my elbow higher. Basically, return it to the angle it's at when the bars are further forward, but keeping the bars where they are because that relieves my shoulder pain.

Without any modifications to the bike, my two current options are pain in my shoulder with bars rotated back, or pain in my hand when they rotated forward. Grip puppies and throttle locks are for increasing grip comfort and / or relief from long distance cramping, which are not my current problems.
Being that you can grip the throttle starting anywhere along it's circumference, and can adjust your hand position infinitely from there, I'm not sure how rotating the throttle helps.

If you're saying that your hand is tilted back a bit because the brake lever has been rotated back a few degrees, and your hand never moves after that, then yes rotating the assembly will solve that.
 

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If I am following this correctly, I would suggest some risers would let you move bars up and back (closer) to you vs. just rotating them towards you. Risers can require brake line or other changes though. Many risers let you maintain the geometry of brake and controls. You can grab the throttle level or even over the top more (it is a cylinder and you can let go of it) but your brake lever is pointing up too much? You could rotate that. I have also developed a more screwdriver like throttle grip which requires you to be closer to the bars with elbows out. All of this is much more subtle than you would think and some small adjustments of the bike (easy) and a conscious effort to change your habits (harder) can really help out.

Good luck and ride safe.

khf000
 

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Maybe I'm not describing the problem very well.

Because the bars are rotated more towards me, the angle of my hand in relation to my wrist / arm is at a more extreme angle (let's say 80 degrees) when at full throttle, and my elbow is lower. This causes pain in the tendons of the top of my hand from the extreme angle from twisting the throttle over time. I would like to rotate the throttle assembly forward so the position at full throttle would put the hand / wrist angle at a shallower angle, with my elbow higher. Basically, return it to the angle it's at when the bars are further forward, but keeping the bars where they are because that relieves my shoulder pain.

Without any modifications to the bike, my two current options are pain in my shoulder with bars rotated back, or pain in my hand when they rotated forward. Grip puppies and throttle locks are for increasing grip comfort and / or relief from long distance cramping, which are not my current problems.


Perhaps it's the bend of the bar. The 650 bar has a lot of pullback compared to typical dirt bike type bars.
The farther back you rotate the bars the more you'll need to turn your wrist in. (bar info here)

My solution was to get bars with less pull back and Rox risers. I'm an old dirt bike guy so got a CR High bend bar that I was familiar with. The OEM bars have a lot of rise also so the Rox risers brought the bars up enough. They really help dialing in the position.

An ATV mid or high bar is a popular choice for a Strom. Tusk bars are a good low price option. You may not need the risers with the ATV bend.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Being that you can grip the throttle starting anywhere along it's circumference, and can adjust your hand position infinitely from there, I'm not sure how rotating the throttle helps.

If you're saying that your hand is tilted back a bit because the brake lever has been rotated back a few degrees, and your hand never moves after that, then yes rotating the assembly will solve that.
Understood that I can rotate my hand to compensate. But that puts my hand / arm in a slightly awkward and different position. My goal here is to have my hand in the same position and the throttle closed/open positions in relation to my hand, in the same place they are with the bars more forward. It's not the brake lever. Thanks for your suggestions anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
It sounds like the only solution to my problem is to find bars with a different bend and/or Rox risers, as several of you have suggested. I'll start researching options. Thanks all for your help.
 

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The ATV MID rise bars are very near the same height as OEM V-Strom, but have much less pullback (turn inwards to the rider). If this sounds like it may be more suitable for you try a set. I use the Protaper Mid ATV bar.
Note that they will be wider and that you may wish to cut each end off to your preference, and that an alloy bar has a smaller internal dimension because of its thicker wall and so the OEM bar weights will not fit. Alloy bars are also less susceptible to vibration and that alone may make them more comfortable to use.
 

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https://www.stromtrooper.com/v-strom-modifications-performance/36505-search-handlebar-perfection-2.html

https://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php/board,143.0.html

"As a perhaps interesting aside: my wrists have always eventually pained me on long rides (stock bars), so before my recent trip I loosened the clamps and rotated the bars forward/down. Then I adjusted the mirror/lever assemblies back, to where they would be in the proper position. The bars were far enough forward/down that, at full lock, the plastic hand guards would bend just a bit when hitting the tank.

Voila! Very little discomfort on the trip, and that included some 12-hour days of riding, and days of intense mountain-twisties. Of course the bars still shook like heck on rough roads, but I keep my hands light on the controls so that wasn't too much of an issue.

Keep in mind that I'm only 5'6". And shrinking. Grin

Silver smiles, bj"


That was from a VSRI post many years ago. V-Stroms have been around long enough to have their own driving liscense. Next year soem will need to register for the draft.
 
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