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Discussion Starter #1
If I cannot find a good deal on an XT which comes with the fat handlebars, how much of a chore will it be to upgrade to a fat bar on the bike with the alloy wheels and skinny bar? I am doing it mostly for looks as the stock bar on the bike looks so puny I feel like I am on a kids' bike.

I am not overly worried about price and can go with Suzuki stock equipment unless it will break $200; then I will be worried about price LOL. I guess one concern is making sure the barely long enough cables have room and nothing interferes with the fairing and what have you.

NC
 

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NC, I thought about doing the same to my '14 DL1K.
Besides the different handlebars, the handlebar stands and clamps are different, as are the clamp bolts. The bolts that hold the stands to the upper triple clamp are the same for both the thick and thin bars. Just a quick check with MR Cycle microfiche shows that, for example, the thin bar clamp sets are $82.32 X 2, the bolts are $4.27 X 2 and $1.37 X4.
So, not even counting the handlebar itself, youre at $1.68.68 plus shipping. The thin bar is shown as $98. I didnt price the thick bar. Getting close to $300 in total.
Everybody has their personal preferences, the thin bar on my '14 doesnt bother me at all.I'm the only one that sees it anyway.
 

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My buddy did this to his 2014 and I think he spent about $330 for everything from the Suzuki dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Out of curiosity, why do you want fat bars?
As vain as it sounds, I don't like the look of the really narrow bars on the non-XT version of the bike. In part they look flimsy and do not inspire confidence and that overall design makes them look like a scooter or something much less substantial than an ADV bike.

On a practical note, the doctor just told me the visit from Mr. Arthur Itis is here to stay and I am far worse than any man he has ever seen in my age group. So the fat bars may vibrate less as well.

NC
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Clamps can be as low as $30 -> https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/1316/3154/Tusk-Universal-Big-Bar-Clamp-Kit

Or get Pro-Taper for $36 -> https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/1316/47276/ProTaper-Universal-Solid-Handlebar-Mount-Kit

Then pick out your bars. Word of caution is that between the risers and various bar bends, your brake lines and cables may not be long enough. Just test to make sure before they are before riding off.
The kits like pro taper normally just mount their brackets to the existing skinny bar mounts which raise the bars about an inch or so. I'd need a really low bar to make sure everything has enough room to work. This is one reason I'd go with the all Suzuki method but with my luck the Suzuki V-STrom 1000 XT not only comes with the fatter bars but has longer cables to match them as well.

Hopefully I can find a yellow XT which will resolve this matter.

NC
 

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On a practical note, the doctor just told me the visit from Mr. Arthur Itis is here to stay and I am far worse than any man he has ever seen in my age group. So the fat bars may vibrate less as well.
If you haven't already, look into Grip Puppies, or similar, too. Some like ISO Grips. I prefer the Grip Puppies, but I am also cheap.
 

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The kits like pro taper normally just mount their brackets to the existing skinny bar mounts which raise the bars about an inch or so. I'd need a really low bar to make sure everything has enough room to work. This is one reason I'd go with the all Suzuki method but with my luck the Suzuki V-STrom 1000 XT not only comes with the fatter bars but has longer cables to match them as well.

Hopefully I can find a yellow XT which will resolve this matter.

NC
I'm have a yellow 2018 1000 XT. The bars are beefier down by the clamps but taper to the smaller diameter at the grips, so they may not help with Mr. Arthur Itis.

Vinnie

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This is one reason I'd go with the all Suzuki method but with my luck the Suzuki V-STrom 1000 XT not only comes with the fatter bars but has longer cables to match them as well.
According to the MR Cycle microfiche the throttle cables for all '18 DL1000 models share the same part number, so throttle cables will not be an issue IF you use the oem Suzuki XT handlebar.
 

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The kits like pro taper normally just mount their brackets to the existing skinny bar mounts which raise the bars about an inch or so. I'd need a really low bar to make sure everything has enough room to work. This is one reason I'd go with the all Suzuki method but with my luck the Suzuki V-STrom 1000 XT not only comes with the fatter bars but has longer cables to match them as well.

Hopefully I can find a yellow XT which will resolve this matter.

NC
First, I'll agree that fatbars just look good- nice and beefy, just looks cool. I don't think you'll see a lot of vibration differences though.

The accessory adapters will indeed raise the bars about .75". While we're talking about style points, I would choose the black ProTaper brand to increase the bling factor.

As to the .75" height increase- the extra height is actually a good thing because there are not a lot of available handlebars in the V Strom OEM height and pullback. Most fatbars are dirtbike models and will be the range of about 70-110 mm height and several pullback choices. By eye-ball estimating, I'd estimate my '18 XT bars are about 140mm tall and about 60mm pullback. (if someone has accurate OEM handlebar measurements, chime in with the numbers) In your situation of wanting to reduce strain to your hands, you will likely find that a bar with a different pullback and/or rise angles, will drastically improve things for you.

Btw, you're still shopping? I figured you'd have a new 1000 in the garage long ago.

Good luck with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Back in about May Dad's health took a turn for the worst. He "wrapped things up" in early July and I didn't do a whole lot of anything for about two months. I didn't want to buy something as a distraction and end up selling it later when it brought back painful memories. So now I am more or less okay with the change and can buy a bike and feel like I am making the choice for the right reasons. It may have to sit in the garage for several months but if I can score a great price on what I want I may just do it.

NC

First, I'll agree that fatbars just look good- nice and beefy, just looks cool. I don't think you'll see a lot of vibration differences though.

The accessory adapters will indeed raise the bars about .75". While we're talking about style points, I would choose the black ProTaper brand to increase the bling factor.

As to the .75" height increase- the extra height is actually a good thing because there are not a lot of available handlebars in the V Strom OEM height and pullback. Most fatbars are dirtbike models and will be the range of about 70-110 mm height and several pullback choices. By eye-ball estimating, I'd estimate my '18 XT bars are about 140mm tall and about 60mm pullback. (if someone has accurate OEM handlebar measurements, chime in with the numbers) In your situation of wanting to reduce strain to your hands, you will likely find that a bar with a different pullback and/or rise angles, will drastically improve things for you.

Btw, you're still shopping? I figured you'd have a new 1000 in the garage long ago.

Good luck with it.
 

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If you opt for 1 1/8" bars (which personally I don't care about one way or another, though I have them on my XT) then I would suggest you buy the much better aluminum aftermarket versions - ProTaper makes good stuff. Suzuki's fat bars are just steel with a wider mounting base, they will offer no performance or "vibration" advantage over the stock 7/8" bars except possibly in the looks department, but that's debatable.
 

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I'm doing it to my 2014 DL1000 now. I have the 2 inch adjustable risers that convert it to 1 1/8 " bars. Then I will use a ProTaper Fatbar that has less rise than stock , so as to maintain a height near original. With the Rox style risers I will have the benefit of fore and aft adjustment . I'm going to pick out the bars tomorrow. ....and I'll get 2 bars cause I'm doing the same procedure to my Triumph Scrambler. My reasons are similar . I really like the look and I also want the adjustment fore and aft.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I'm doing it to my 2014 DL1000 now. I have the 2 inch adjustable risers that convert it to 1 1/8 " bars. Then I will use a ProTaper Fatbar that has less rise than stock , so as to maintain a height near original. With the Rox style risers I will have the benefit of fore and aft adjustment . I'm going to pick out the bars tomorrow. ....and I'll get 2 bars cause I'm doing the same procedure to my Triumph Scrambler. My reasons are similar . I really like the look and I also want the adjustment fore and aft.
If you don't mind, let us know how the cable clearance works out.

NC
 

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I will . Had to wait until today to go look at bars. And actually my goal for the V-Strom is just a little higher and a little further back. One inch or less on both. So I imagine a little rerouting will be required. The Triumph is just right for height , but the bars are very straight across , so I want more "pullback" .(Once again with the better looks of the fat bar) The one problem is that the top half of the bar-clamp is bridged and doubles as the instrument mount . Gonna take some thought.....I'll need a beer or two. The center stand arrived arrived yesterday from Tec Bike Parts and that will make the work easier.
Here is a pic. Any thoughts or suggestions will be appreciated .
 

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NEW PROBLEM : My DL1000 is the ADV with handguards. The handguards snap into the bar ends which are purpose built with a slot for the handguards . I removed a bar end to take with me to try to find bars that would accept them ( had little hope for that) . These bar ends are not the "expanding" type like on other bikes. There is a threaded plate welded deep in the handlebar that the bar end screw goes into. I dont want to lose my handguards OR the bar ends ....so now I'm going to consider factory steel fat bars . And if I go that route I will get the converters that fit in the stock risers and only add about 1 inch to the height. I'm glad I have all winter to try to do this right. Maybe Numbercruncher will discover something that works that will help us all.
 

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NEW PROBLEM : My DL1000 is the ADV with handguards. The handguards snap into the bar ends which are purpose built with a slot for the handguards . I removed a bar end to take with me to try to find bars that would accept them ( had little hope for that) . These bar ends are not the "expanding" type like on other bikes. There is a threaded plate welded deep in the handlebar that the bar end screw goes into. I dont want to lose my handguards OR the bar ends ....so now I'm going to consider factory steel fat bars . And if I go that route I will get the converters that fit in the stock risers and only add about 1 inch to the height. I'm glad I have all winter to try to do this right. Maybe Numbercruncher will discover something that works that will help us all.
The bar ends on every Suzuki are the expanding style. Are you sure you didn't just unbolt the bar end, leaving the nut and rubber expander in the bar? Sometimes they can stick to the inside which might could seem like they are welded in. Stick a screwdriver in and whack it with a mallet.

Also those bar ends will work on any bar that terminates in 7/8". Use some ingenuity. The OEM bolt can be used with a nut and a piece of fuel line of appropriate external dimensions to snug nicely inside an aluminum bar. Same idea as the OEM Suz bar end mount, just a thinner piece of fuel line to fit in the more narrow aluminum bar.
 

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You are correct. It's been a long time since I installed a set of handguards . I just pulled the throttle side . Tight , but it came out.
So , thanks MeefZah . Back to the plans for fatties.
 
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