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I would like to add a second horn. Of course Suzuki mounted the original where you have to dismantle the radiator to get to it. Is there somewhere else I could tap in to the wiring to add the 2nd horn?
 

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I installed Stebel horn in place of OEM behind rdiator without removing, just unbolted the screw on the left side and swinging out. You have to lay down and work with your hands up for a long time fitting and bending bracket so it does not touch radiator fins.

Well, after two years I removed it, first - it always was failing and hard to reach, and secondly - the fear that that damn thing gets loose eventually and damage the radiator. I use horn once a year anyways...
 

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Aftermarket horn

Three years ago, I mounted an automobile compressor and twin megaphone air horn. It has been a wonderful upgrade for all sorts of reasons. I used the original wiring and removed the stock horn. I mounted the compressor to the valve cover lug that supports the lower rad. (left side). The horns are mounted to the left Givi engine guard. Cheap and easy and is actuated by the stock horn button.
 

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A relay is needed for any horn more powerful than the stock horn. The stock horn can be left in place. Slip the electrical connections off the stock horn and use them to trigger the relay. I put a Stebel Nautilus air horn on the left side on a Pat Walsh bracket and a Fiamm (NAPA branded) low tone Freeway Blaster on the right side, bolted to a radiator mounting bolt. The left horn is for people merging into me from the left, and the right horn is for people considering entering the roundabout when I'm continuing around. Of course, both blow at the same time. A pair of Freeway Blasters (hi & lo tone) would have worked very well also.
 

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I'm running 2 wolo's. I bought a dual 87 relay(2 hot wires). Absolutely no advantage of 2 wolo's/stebels over 1 wolo/stebel. They pull about 28+ amps. I got a super deal on the wolo's at HF. Incredible sale +20% discount. I paid $19 for each one.Wolo is a Stebel knockoff or licensed by Stebel.
Save your money for a front sprocket, fuzebox or power point setup instead of running two horns.





Les
 

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No relay Needed

A relay is needed for any horn more powerful than the stock horn. The stock horn can be left in place. Slip the electrical connections off the stock horn and use them to trigger the relay. I put a Stebel Nautilus air horn on the left side on a Pat Walsh bracket and a Fiamm (NAPA branded) low tone Freeway Blaster on the right side, bolted to a radiator mounting bolt. The left horn is for people merging into me from the left, and the right horn is for people considering entering the roundabout when I'm continuing around. Of course, both blow at the same time. A pair of Freeway Blasters (hi & lo tone) would have worked very well also.
You don't need a relay--I did not and I use my horn a lot. In fact, for the first year, I had both the aftermarket and stock horn going at the same time with no issues (I use my horn quite a bit). However, for the set-up described above, one would certainly need a relay.
 

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You may have got away with no relay but if you search it there are plenty of folks out there that have not. The horn button is barely adequate for the amperage of the stock setup.


Sent from my Motorcycle iPhone app, while drinking a latte, eating a burger, driving through a school zone 20 mph over the speed limit with my feet on the wheel!
 

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Pushing the horn button on a Vee delivers power to the Black/Blue wire between the button and the horn. You could get to it by cutting through the cover of the wire bundle from the left handlebar switch.
 

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I left my stock horn in place(I think).The reason I say I think is I removed the stock horn on my BMW. I saw no need to remove my stock horn on my Strom. It's been almost 4 years since the upgrade.Time clouds memories. I used the stock horn wires to power the relay. When I hit the horn with 2 wolos the bike immediately starts discharging until I release the horn button(324-450 watts to power the horns, depending what actually is needed to make the horns honk). As you can see the stock horns don't have the gauge to handle high amp horns. Sure it will work but at what price down the road. I have a blue seas relay box but I run the horns on a separate fuse circuit outside of the blue seas box.2 horns is almost the capacity of a blue sea relay box(40 amps).I can't remember if I'm running 6 or 8 gauge fused to the relay.Finally the wolos/stebel should be grounded to the battery never the frame. I think I grounded the wolos to my blue seas box because it's grounded to the battery.
When I ride I prepare for the worst if I can.The last thing I want to do is wrench on the side of the road especially if doing it right only took 20 minutes more and the end result costs a bunch of money to fix a secondary repair caused by a "known" upgrade.If you are mounting the horns on the fairing stay. Running a relay near the battery (personal preference of having all the relays near the battery area for access. It also adds about double amount of wire used. Eastern Beaver setup puts the relays near the headlight/horns. It uses significantly less wire and at an excellent price +plug&play) Relay failure is very rare. I'm a firm believer in never butchering the wiring harness. I tapped into the taillight wires(These wires aren't part of the main harness) to power the relay for the blue seas. I would have used a Eastern Beaver setup for using a wire near the end of tank if I had known about it 4 years ago.


Good Luck,
Les
 
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