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My boss was making the rounds today, so I hid under my desk as she came down the hallway.

When the coast was clear, I went to stand up and whapped my mellon on the underside of the desktop.

In that moment I saw a vision of a 2003 DL1k with a headlight interruptor relay, just like the grown-up Stroms have.

Would it be of benefit to upgrade to this to extend battery life or should I just use a cold compress for twenty minutes on, twenty minutes off like it says in the First Aid booklet?
 

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The stater button contacts fail because the wattage of the headlights pass through it all the time. A cheap auto 30AMP relay can tale the current and relieve the handle bar start button from the duty.

Additionally if wired robustly there is less loss in the wiring and as such brighter headlights

The battery life will be extended 200%, the middle east will be peaceful, and that girl at the shop will ask you out
 

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In that moment I saw a vision of a 2003 DL1k with a headlight interruptor relay, just like the grown-up Stroms have.
There is no relay. There is a different starter button switch with normally closed contacts that pass the headlight current. It's actually a weak link in a weak system. If I were you, I'd get an Eastern Beaver headlight relay kit with a shut off switch. It will bypass the weak stock system and let you turn the lights off when starting. Motorcycle H4 Relay Kits, cheap Worldwide Shipping
 

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+1 on the Eastern Beaver Headlight relay kit. It took me longer to zip tie the relays up than it did to install the rest of the kit. Really easy to install, works great, and gives me a little extra peace of mind.

I've read on here several threads about people having probelms because the headlight circuit has some weak links. One is the starter switch and there is also a connector in the fairing that can also get burned out (has the gages and other stuff in it). Adding the relay kit eliminates the high current from flowing through these circuits and should extend their life.

I like it and haven't noticed any negitive side effects. Don't know if it actually made my headlights brighter, didn't do a before and after comparison.

Hope this Helps.
 

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One thing that bothers some people is the blinker indicators on the dash flash when switching between hi and lo beam. It's the collapsing field on the relays inducing a small current in the turn signal wiring. There has never be any harm reported from this.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The stater button contacts fail because the wattage of the headlights pass through it all the time. A cheap auto 30AMP relay can tale the current and relieve the handle bar start button from the duty.

Additionally if wired robustly there is less loss in the wiring and as such brighter headlights

The battery life will be extended 200%, the middle east will be peaceful, and that girl at the shop will ask you out
Actually, I have already treated the headlights to a beaver. They are a bit brighter and also, the pulsing of the modulator is no longer sent back into the fuel pump.

So, it sounds like the next step is to adapt a switch into the primary side of the existing relay to cut the lights during start. Hmmm...momentary off or poled. I am forgetful. Momentary would be smarter but less handy.

As far as the Middle East is concerned, Gilad is back with his family, as are many others. Perhaps someone will be couragous enough to see this as an opportunity to stop hating. :yesnod:

And for the girl at the parts shop, she did hit on my wife, I think. :confused:
 

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There is no relay. There is a different starter button switch with normally closed contacts that pass the headlight current. It's actually a weak link in a weak system. If I were you, I'd get an Eastern Beaver headlight relay kit with a shut off switch. It will bypass the weak stock system and let you turn the lights off when starting. Motorcycle H4 Relay Kits, cheap Worldwide Shipping
Assuming I don't need a headlight cutoff switch for other purposes, from a system longevity perspective is there a benefit to being able to switch off the headlight manually with a switch when starting if using the EB relay? The starter button switch would no longer be passing full headlight current -- only the trigger current.
 

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Actually, I have already treated the headlights to a beaver. They are a bit brighter and also, the pulsing of the modulator is no longer sent back into the fuel pump.
Interesting - hadn't thought of that as a potential consequence of a modulator. I've never noticed any issue with the fuel pump when running my headlight modulator on the high beams. Are there reported issues with this that I haven't heard about?
 

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Assuming I don't need a headlight cutoff switch for other purposes, from a system longevity perspective is there a benefit to being able to switch off the headlight manually with a switch when starting if using the EB relay? The starter button switch would no longer be passing full headlight current -- only the trigger current.
Bikes got headlight cutouts to provide full current to the starter. I remember reading it's easier on the headlights and starter relay contacts too.
 

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Bikes got headlight cutouts to provide full current to the starter. I remember reading it's easier on the headlights and starter relay contacts too.
I totally agree, if the cutout in the starter switch is passing full headlight current. What I'm wondering is, if you already have the EB relay installed, and the switch in the starter button is only passing the trigger current, is there an incremental benefit to also having a manual headlight switch? I'd assume that the trigger current is so low as to be insignificant from a longevity standpoint, but I don't know enough about the failures of that switch.
 

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The original question was about an '03. Both models got headlight cutouts in the starter switch in '05. I see no reason for an '05 or later bike to turn off the headlights when starting but some reasons earlier models could benefit. I do think every Strom would be better off with relay controlled headlights.
 

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OK now I got it I went to confirm this but looked at the old schematic and it did not have any of this voodoo

Yes simple normally closed could get from the starter signal
 

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us

I just ordered the H4 relay kit and will install to prevent the burn up. Thanks
 

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One thing that bothers some people is the blinker indicators on the dash flash when switching between hi and lo beam. It's the collapsing field on the relays inducing a small current in the turn signal wiring. There has never be any harm reported from this.
I noticed the turn signal indicators flashing when switching from LO to HI beam and back, after I installed my headlight relays this week.
This counter emf from the relay coils de-activating can reach a couple of hundred volts for a few milliseconds. That's really bad news for any integrated circuit assembly, especially computer related circuitry, ECM etc. Most circuits have built in diodes for protection but why take a chance.
The problem is easily taken care of with just about any old diode kicking around in your junk box.
I soldered in 2 diodes across the coils and the flashing is gone.
IMHO that's a cheap and effective fix for a problem that can potentially cause a lot of damage to expensive components. :thumbup:
I used to work on older underwater weapons where all the logic was done with electromechanical relays and without exception, every one of them had a diode across the coil.
 

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After selling thousands of relay kits for VStroms, NOBODY has reported any damage because the signals flicker for a second.

As to the early models with no headlight cut on the starter switch - the starter switch is only seeing very low current with the relays installed so that's not going to be a problem. However, since the headlight are on during startup the battery can provide less current to the starter. I do have an option for a manual headight cut so that is my recommendation.

If you want to install diodes put them on the Coupler wires. Use a 1A 1000 Volte diode.
 

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After selling thousands of relay kits for VStroms, NOBODY has reported any damage because the signals flicker for a second.

As to the early models with no headlight cut on the starter switch - the starter switch is only seeing very low current with the relays installed so that's not going to be a problem. However, since the headlight are on during startup the battery can provide less current to the starter. I do have an option for a manual headight cut so that is my recommendation.

If you want to install diodes put them on the Coupler wires. Use a 1A 1000 Volte diode.
That's cool ! I just think that the simple act of installing 2 diodes is cheap insurance against a potential disaster. But that's just me, I'm a stickler when it comes to things like this.
BTW, I could never figure out why the bike makers insist on cutting out the headlight(s) during engine start up. With a good working engine the actual time the starter draws a heavy current is so short that killing the headlights IMHO is completely unneccessary and adds unneeded complexity. If an additional headlight current of 5 to 10 A for a few seconds during starter operation affects your battery, you have other, more serious electrical issues you should be looking into.
 
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