[TheGarMan]

I've read multiple threads in the Stromtrooper forums regarding front running lights and after gleaning everything I could find, I came up with what I thought was the best and easiest solution. The conversion was inexpensive and not very difficult (especially if you like to tinker and can solder!) I have benefited so much from other member's research and "how to" photos (including how to install a fusebox, fork brace, rear wheel spacer, peg extenders, how to "bob" your rear fender, etc.), I decided to put together my information that hopefully will help others.

I started by buying two "Double Contact Sockets" (for $2.12 each) and two dual filament #1157 bulbs from my local auto parts stores.

I suggest doing one side at a time...your second side will go quite quickly! Turn your handlebars and reach in and disconnect the small turn signal wire connector from your wiring harness. Use a 17mm wrench to remove the nut and washer holding the turn signal housing to the bike. Set the nut and washer aside and remove the turn signal housing from the bike.

Cut the two wires leaving at least an inch or more of wire near the small connector - you'll need to re-connect the wires from the new socket back to this connector. (Towards the end, I soldered and used heat shrink tubing to connect the new socket to the small connector.) Remove the single filament bulb, the metal socket and pull out the two wires from the turn signal housing.

Modify both new sockets to fit into your stock turn signal housings (see photos). I had to remove a "U" shaped piece of metal and drill two small holes into the new sockets...one to solder a new ground wire and one for the screw to mount the new socket back into the housing.

Solder a new ground wire onto the new socket the same length as the two wires on the socket. I used a small razor knife to cut the rubber waterproofing "stopper" so all three wires would fit through it before I put everything back into the housing. I also had to get a 1/4" longer screw to attach the new socket to the housing.

If you have a 12V converter, use it to find out which of the new wires runs to the turn signal filament and which runs to the running light filament. (If you don't have a 12V converter you can use your wiring harness to check.) Once you determine which wire is the turn signal wire (the brightest light), solder it and the new ground wire to the small connector that plugs into the wiring harness (the new ground wire connects to the black with white stripe on the small connector.) *The third wire from the housing (the dimmer light) is the running light which will be tied to either (1) the rear tail light or (2) to the switched side of your fusebox if you have one.

Put the housing back into the bike and put the three wires through both the washer and bolt. Snug the bolt tight with a 17mm wrench. Plug the small connector back into your wiring harness. Lastly, fish a wire from a connection to your rear tail light (or from your fusebox), up under the tank and tie it into both running light wires using a whatever connectors that work for you. (I used a Posi-Twist and a Posi-Tap connectors.)

Once mounted and wired, the running lights will come on when you turn your ignition on. They work great for me and I thought this was a fun and worthwhile project! Best of all, I'm a little more visible from the front!!

 

[greywolf]

I like it. That housing doesn't require adding anything to get a solid mount. An alternative to get the third wire through is to poke a hole in the grommet with an awl or sharpened nail. Then tin the end of the new wire and cut the end at a sharp angle to make a stiff point. The point can be pushed through the hole. I used the stock wires and soldered them plus a third to the new socket and contacts. It's a good look.

 

[TheGarMan]

Thanks, Pat! I've read many of your posts and you seem to keep up with most everything, and I've followed many of your suggestions. Thanks for all the information you've provided!

I was limited to 5 pictures, so I'll add 2 more now to go with my initial posting.

 

[Fyrman]

Nice easy farkle... thanx for that! Great rainy day project.

 

[PTRider]

$40 daytime running light module that uses the brighter filament for the running lights except when you've activated the turn signals.
Sequential Turn Signals, One Touch Turn Signals, Challenger Sequential Taillights, Sequential Tail Lights, Mustang, Dynamite Stick Sequential, Pulsing Brake Light Pulser Flasher, One Touch Convertible Top, Dynamite Stick, One Touch Turn Signals, Dayt

1157 bulbs always on bright might be too hot for the small plastic housings unless LED lights were used.

 

[MoBandi]

Very Nice! Thanks, especially for the pics, they make all the difference in me getting it right the first time.

 

[p38arover]

For Australians contemplating this, I think amber front running/park lights are illegal. I couldn't register a grey import Nissan that had them. The lamps had to be replaced at huge expense. (I won't mention that we managed to borrow some clear lenses to get past the inspection..... :fineprint: )

 

[rakad]

PT Rider, exactly what product are you referring to on that website?

$40 daytime running light module that uses the brighter filament for the running lights except when you've activated the turn signals.
Sequential Turn Signals, One Touch Turn Signals, Challenger Sequential Taillights, Sequential Tail Lights, Mustang, Dynamite Stick Sequential, Pulsing Brake Light Pulser Flasher, One Touch Convertible Top, Dynamite Stick, One Touch Turn Signals, Dayt
QUOTE]

 

[maggot]

Bringing this back up, as a thanks for sharing.

Getting my bike prepped with some new lighting for the upcoming dark, wet winter, that is Vancouver Island commute.

Got the parts now just need a few hrs to complete. :yesnod:

 

[Bell407]

Really good idea guys! This is rapidly working its way to the top of my '07 650 requirements list. Great documentation also.

Thanks

 

[maggot]

Got it completed. It doesn't give any lighting down the road but provides a great glow from the bike and it reflects across the fairing and gauges really nice.

Great cheap mod :yesnod:

 

[Borghi]

Looks like a great project! I have the clear lenses, but I'm sure I can buy the Amber 1157 bulbs. Thanks for sharing this!!

 

[Borghi]

I've read multiple threads in the Stromtrooper forums regarding front running lights and after gleaning everything I could find, I came up with what I thought was the best and easiest solution. The conversion was inexpensive and not very difficult (especially if you like to tinker and can solder!) I have benefited so much from other member's research and "how to" photos (including how to install a fusebox, fork brace, rear wheel spacer, peg extenders, how to "bob" your rear fender, etc.), I decided to put together my information that hopefully will help others.

I started by buying two "Double Contact Sockets" (for $2.12 each) and two dual filament #1157 bulbs from my local auto parts stores.

I suggest doing one side at a time...your second side will go quite quickly! Turn your handlebars and reach in and disconnect the small turn signal wire connector from your wiring harness. Use a 17mm wrench to remove the nut and washer holding the turn signal housing to the bike. Set the nut and washer aside and remove the turn signal housing from the bike.

Cut the two wires leaving at least an inch or more of wire near the small connector - you'll need to re-connect the wires from the new socket back to this connector. (Towards the end, I soldered and used heat shrink tubing to connect the new socket to the small connector.) Remove the single filament bulb, the metal socket and pull out the two wires from the turn signal housing.

Modify both new sockets to fit into your stock turn signal housings (see photos). I had to remove a "U" shaped piece of metal and drill two small holes into the new sockets...one to solder a new ground wire and one for the screw to mount the new socket back into the housing.

Solder a new ground wire onto the new socket the same length as the two wires on the socket. I used a small razor knife to cut the rubber waterproofing "stopper" so all three wires would fit through it before I put everything back into the housing. I also had to get a 1/4" longer screw to attach the new socket to the housing.

If you have a 12V converter, use it to find out which of the new wires runs to the turn signal filament and which runs to the running light filament. (If you don't have a 12V converter you can use your wiring harness to check.) Once you determine which wire is the turn signal wire (the brightest light), solder it and the new ground wire to the small connector that plugs into the wiring harness (the new ground wire connects to the black with white stripe on the small connector.) *The third wire from the housing (the dimmer light) is the running light which will be tied to either (1) the rear tail light or (2) to the switched side of your fusebox if you have one.

Put the housing back into the bike and put the three wires through both the washer and bolt. Snug the bolt tight with a 17mm wrench. Plug the small connector back into your wiring harness. Lastly, fish a wire from a connection to your rear tail light (or from your fusebox), up under the tank and tie it into both running light wires using a whatever connectors that work for you. (I used a Posi-Twist and a Posi-Tap connectors.)

Once mounted and wired, the running lights will come on when you turn your ignition on. They work great for me and I thought this was a fun and worthwhile project! Best of all, I'm a little more visible from the front!!

Thanks for sharing. Great project for a rainy day!

 

[Borghi]

Finally finished the socket mods and wiring. Finding the switched Heated Grip wiring on my '08 Vee was a PITA. Took the tank off, loosened fairing plastics on both sides, and finally after finding some pictures on another forum, found the plug. It had no rubber seals, in fact the contacts inside the plug were corroded. I clipped the plug and soldered on an extension wire. May use in the future with a relay for switched circuits.

It really wasn't necessary to remove the tank. I could have loosened or removed the plastics on the clutch side and found the wire if I knew what I was looking for. Oh well.

The only other challenge was poking the new holes in the rubber pieces, and threading the wires through. I tinned the wires first to make them stiff, and cut the ends at a sharp angle. I ended up using silicone bulb grease to lube the wires and that helped.

I'll put the tank back on in the am and go for a nice long ride. Thanks to the others who have shared their wisdom on this project.