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I can't figure out how to get to the rear master cylinder. It looks like I need to remove the blue side panel, but to do that I also need to remove my rear rack..is that right? Is there a trick to getting to it?
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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That's right. Rack and side panel need to come off. There is a plastic rivet on the bottom. Press the center in to free it.

 

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That's right. Rack and side panel need to come off. There is a plastic rivet on the bottom. Press the center in to free it.

Where would one purchase these rivets if one were to have broken one...
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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I can't figure out how to get to the rear master cylinder. It looks like I need to remove the blue side panel, but to do that I also need to remove my rear rack..is that right? Is there a trick to getting to it?
On my Vee I can service the master cylinder without removing the side panel or rack. By removing the bolt at the front of the panel, there's enough "slack" to move the panel away from the bike and get to the top of the cylinder. Slip a spacer (large screwdriver handle worked for me) at the front of the panel, and you'll have enough room to remove the cylinder top, add or change the fluid, etc.

Obviously you need to be careful, the plastic is flexible but not unbreakable.
 

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I saw them at Lowe's
 

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On my Vee I can service the master cylinder without removing the side panel or rack. By removing the bolt at the front of the panel, there's enough "slack" to move the panel away from the bike and get to the top of the cylinder. Slip a spacer (large screwdriver handle worked for me) at the front of the panel, and you'll have enough room to remove the cylinder top, add or change the fluid, etc.

Obviously you need to be careful, the plastic is flexible but not unbreakable.
This is what I do. I'd rather take the plastic off but a bolt that holds down the rear rack has been stripped and I haven't got around getting it off.

I cover all the plastic up, aim, and poured.
 

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This is what I do. I'd rather take the plastic off but a bolt that holds down the rear rack has been stripped and I haven't got around getting it off.

I cover all the plastic up, aim, and poured.
I use the same method, with a long neck funnel to make sure the brake fluid goes where I want it.
 

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This is what I do. I'd rather take the plastic off but a bolt that holds down the rear rack has been stripped and I haven't got around getting it off.

I cover all the plastic up, aim, and poured.
How did you manage to strip one of the bolts?? :confused: That truly sucks. If it is one of the rear bolts, you could try slotting it with a dremel.

The shiny fairing bolts on the other hand - those are made out of soft cheese. I've got two that I've slotted already and three more that need it.

-edit-
To the OP, whatcha needing to get back to the rear resevoir for? Any issues?
 

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How did you manage to strip one of the bolts?? :confused: That truly sucks. If it is one of the rear bolts, you could try slotting it with a dremel.

The shiny fairing bolts on the other hand - those are made out of soft cheese. I've got two that I've slotted already and three more that need it.

-edit-
To the OP, whatcha needing to get back to the rear resevoir for? Any issues?
I have never taken the rear bolt out before so, I am thinking that it has been like that since I bought it. The head looks like someone filed it down - it's truly remarkable. I just picked up a dremel - quite possibly that best tool. That bolt doesn't stand a chance now.

No more target practice.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
How did you manage to strip one of the bolts?? :confused: That truly sucks. If it is one of the rear bolts, you could try slotting it with a dremel.

The shiny fairing bolts on the other hand - those are made out of soft cheese. I've got two that I've slotted already and three more that need it.

-edit-
To the OP, whatcha needing to get back to the rear resevoir for? Any issues?
No issues. I just realized I flushed the front but forgot to do the rear.
 

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a local mc shop had a pack of 10 plastic rivets for $6. they're good to share at a tech day.
 

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Reviving this thread. Apologies in advance if it should be posted elsewhere or on its own.

Just installed Speed Bleeders on my '12 650. I can get to the rear MC easily enough by separating and removing the black plastic panel from the painted one BUT . . . do I have to fight with that one PITA Philips head screw every time I want to do a flush?? Anybody have a nifty alternative?
 

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I don't see why you can't replace the phillips with a hex as long as the cover does not hit the head when installed. My used bike did not have any of those plastic fasteners on either side panel. Since the rack bolts capture them I don't see any need to put any new one's on there. So far no rattles or vibrations back there.
 
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