Try again with the engine hot ?
Access plug on stator cover
Is there a trick to getting the access cover for the crankshaft off? Is it a left hand thread or something? So far my attempts at getting this cover off have failed.
I did get the smaller access cover off, and even that took far more effort than I thought it should.
I am using a 1/2" drive racket with a 10mm hex. I am holding-off on putting a lot of force on this as I do not want to strip-out the cover or break the stator cover.
Thought I would ask if there is something special about this before put more force on it.
Thanks
I did get the smaller access cover off, and even that took far more effort than I thought it should.
I am using a 1/2" drive racket with a 10mm hex. I am holding-off on putting a lot of force on this as I do not want to strip-out the cover or break the stator cover.
Thought I would ask if there is something special about this before put more force on it.
Thanks
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
I removed the stator cover as I needed to check the magnets (in which 4 of 6 were loose), removed the stator and put the cover into the freezer....see if that helps.
Not able to run engine at this time as the clutch basket is at Werks.
Not able to run engine at this time as the clutch basket is at Werks.
Got it loose. Cover in the freezer for about 5 hours, then into my bench vise, still required quite a bit of force to break it loose, but it did.
I have no idea if a past owner over-torqued these or what. Think I will apply some anti-seize when I am done with the valve check.
Later
I have no idea if a past owner over-torqued these or what. Think I will apply some anti-seize when I am done with the valve check.
Later
They all do this.
Anti-seize on the threads, and a little grease on the o-ring, are needed because the threads on the aluminum plug really, really love to bind up and stick to the aluminum cover. Even if you don't need to do a valve check, it's good practice once you've added anti-seize to crack this stupid loose a little and then snug it back up every six to 12 months.
And snug is all you need. People tend to drastically over-tighten these things seeking to get the o-ring to stop seeping. Again, every DL1000 will seep a little, it's perfectly normal minor failing of the design. Just wipe it off every so often. Tightening the plug does absolutely nothing to improve the seal; quite the opposite in fact.
I'll also point out that, if you manage to damage the plug (which isn't hard -- it's a surprisingly thin and weak aluminum casting) a new plug isn't that expensive from your favorite source for Suzuki bits, and that you should replace the o-ring as well.
Lastly, there is, or used to be, a much-improved Yoshimura timing plug sold for the DR-Z400 that fits the DL1000. I never ponied up the cash, but some have. There are also some Chinese knockoffs out there of unknown quality.
Anti-seize on the threads, and a little grease on the o-ring, are needed because the threads on the aluminum plug really, really love to bind up and stick to the aluminum cover. Even if you don't need to do a valve check, it's good practice once you've added anti-seize to crack this stupid loose a little and then snug it back up every six to 12 months.
And snug is all you need. People tend to drastically over-tighten these things seeking to get the o-ring to stop seeping. Again, every DL1000 will seep a little, it's perfectly normal minor failing of the design. Just wipe it off every so often. Tightening the plug does absolutely nothing to improve the seal; quite the opposite in fact.
I'll also point out that, if you manage to damage the plug (which isn't hard -- it's a surprisingly thin and weak aluminum casting) a new plug isn't that expensive from your favorite source for Suzuki bits, and that you should replace the o-ring as well.
Lastly, there is, or used to be, a much-improved Yoshimura timing plug sold for the DR-Z400 that fits the DL1000. I never ponied up the cash, but some have. There are also some Chinese knockoffs out there of unknown quality.
Agree on the bit of grease on the O ring.
And yes, just snug is all that is needed, let the O ring do it's job. I have not taken a good look at the O ring yet, it may be so compressed. If I had not already sent in my parts order, I would just replace it. Perhaps I can find an O ring at the hardware store.
I will have to search for this Yoshimura timing plug....got me curious.
Thanks
And yes, just snug is all that is needed, let the O ring do it's job. I have not taken a good look at the O ring yet, it may be so compressed. If I had not already sent in my parts order, I would just replace it. Perhaps I can find an O ring at the hardware store.
I will have to search for this Yoshimura timing plug....got me curious.
Thanks
I have the Yosh cover. It uses built in bolt instead of the Allen socket. Quite hard to find now I think.
I have searched for the Yoshimura covers, found some images, but did not find any available. Also found the knockoffs.
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
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