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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello!
My ABS light turns on and off quite often now, and at an increasing rate as the odometer reading goes up. When the ABS light is on, the ABS stops working. The dealer says the ABS module needs replacement. The problem is this module is awfully expensive (more than $1,100.00 U.S. Dlls in Mexico!). Is this a frequent problem for the DL 650 A? Could it be a result of a stator malfunction? The stator was just replaced a couple of months ago under warranty. However the ABS problem started about a year before the stator stopped functioning.

P.S.: It has been a long time since I visited this forum, so I am not acquainted with everything that has been going on here for the last 2 years or more... I apologize if this subject has been reviewed before; if so, I would appreciate if you could re-direct me to the right thread. Thanks!
 

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Have a good look at the wheel sensors and the part of the disc they sense from, front and rear, ensure things are clean, tight & straight, a problem there is far more likely than the module.
 
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Also, check your wiring for charging and all connectors for chaffing from both wheels back.
We have seen very few module failures here. Those that did bought used ones off eBay for a fraction of new.
 

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Have tires been changed recently?
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Hello, thanks for your replies. I will check the sensors and the wiring. The tires have been changed about 10,000 mi ago, however I don´t recall the problem was related to the tire change. Why do you ask about the tires Big B? What do you have in mind?
 

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Hello, thanks for your replies. I will check the sensors and the wiring. The tires have been changed about 10,000 mi ago, however I don´t recall the problem was related to the tire change. Why do you ask about the tires Big B? What do you have in mind?
Was just referring to the possibility of a bent ABS ring, it happens sometimes during a tire change and it gets bent.
 
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Also, if the sensor isn't removed first, it can get damaged.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
How can I determine if the sensors got damaged? I do not think they were removed before the tires were changed, so what Greywolf mentions could be an issue. Should I use a voltmeter to check for a change in tension while spinning the wheel with the ignition switch on? Or would an oscilloscope be necessary? Thanks.
 

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I always removed the sensor from its hole / socket (remove bolt but leave the sensor hang loose) when removing the wheels for tire changes. Seem to remember I "had to" remove the sensor in order to remove the wheel.

Knowing my experience and that you seem to imply that the sensors weren't removed during wheel removal, I'd remove them and see if the "nose" that is within in a fraction of an inch of the speed sensor wheel is damaged / dirty.
 

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Q separación tiene que tener el sensor y el disco ? Tengo el mismo problema
intente usar una aplicación de traducción. Puede haber algunos que hablan español pero muchos más ingleses.

try using a translation application. there may be some here who speak Spanish but many more english.
 

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Rear brake pedal suddenly refused to budge. My dealer said the ABS units were a sore spot on my 2012 Wee. I tried a bunch of different remedies but the ABS was kaput, and a repalcement unit was $2100.00!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!, AND labor was another $450.00!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!. So, I managed to find a new one for $800.00, but it was in Germany. I went on Ebay and found a used unit for $150.00, so WTF, I went for it. I also found a local shop that would do the install for $150 and change my coolant to boot. So.....I am now a happy camper, having saved about $2300.00. The moral of the story, don't neglect your brake fluid, which I had never changed or serviced. It might have been the culprit that clogged and damaged the ABS. Good luck, amigo.
 

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The 12's for whatever reason have been the ones having ABS units fail, before that and beyond that it's been extremely rare to hear. I activate my ABS system regularly on a flat gravel road, I believe that and clean fluid is the secret to their longevity.
 
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Dang, I better go and flush my brake fluid. :oops:
 

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Sadly, we can add another 2012 Wee to the list.
 

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The 12's for whatever reason have been the ones having ABS units fail, before that and beyond that it's been extremely rare to hear. I activate my ABS system regularly on a flat gravel road, I believe that and clean fluid is the secret to their longevity.
The ABS module was redesigned for the Gen2 Wee (2012-2016) for less weight and less power (amps). I believe the redesign made it less robust and unable to handle the heat from the 400F/205C rear exhaust header. Regular activation and annual brake fluid bleeding is probably a good idea given what we know. However, the way the ABS is designed the fluid does not circulate nor get completely changed out in a bleed so there are circuits in the ABS with old fluid regardless of such efforts but it probably does help.

I bled the brakes on my L4 Wee at ~7K miles and the front fluid was fine but the rear fluid was already dark like tea so I think it is just a matter of time before it fails. My longer term plan, in addition to activation and frequent fluid changes, is to wrap the rear exhaust header and do a reverse flush. Someone posted this thread on an Arduino project which would allow a reverse flush.
 

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Someone should start a poll then hit Mr Suzuki for a fix on safety grounds.
 

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Someone should start a poll then hit Mr Suzuki for a fix on safety grounds.
ABS failure on Gen 2 and not selling the gas cap seal as a separate part would be on my list.
 
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