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Discussion Starter #1
I went riding off road for the first time with 3 other riders. I pulled the 15 amp ABS fuse and the traction control light came on so I assume it was also disconnected. The speedometer read zero mph while moving, and after a while the fuel injection light came on. While still moving I pulled the clutch in, shut off the engine and re-started. The fuel injection light went out but re-lighted several times later and I would repeat the procedure. When we were finished riding off road I replaced the fuse and everything returned to normal.

I have a few questions - Is this normal for a '14 V2?

I saw a video on how to disconnect the ABS but it was for a 650 Strom. How can I turn off the ABS and still keep my traction control from turning off? I'm pretty good at electrical, so wiring isn't a problem for me.

Is the fuel injection light and speedometer acting up normal?
 

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You can put the bike on the center stand. Shift into 2nd gear and let out the clutch. After a few seconds the ABS will shut off. It will turn back on when you shut off the key and turn the bike back on. I've done this a few times and had no problems, however there doesn't seem to be much of a need to shut off the ABS, even off-road.
 

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This subject interests me. Lots of "True Adventurers" rag on ABS. I watch some video of a BMW bounding down a hill out of control because ABS was on. My question of that video was "how about gearing?" No way that BMW guy was in a gear, most likely the clutch pulled in during the panic or shifted to Neutral.

I am not a hot dog off road rider, but so far have done minor testing of front ABS while controlling speed coming down gravel roads. I activated ABS a couple of times and knowing it would come on, found it helpful finding the max amount of front brake to use without wash out.

Basically, i just don't understand the hatred for ABS unless you are hard core, brake sliding corners and such.

Anyone have Strom knowledge of the advantage of tuning ABS off?
 

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This subject interests me. Lots of "True Adventurers" rag on ABS. I watch some video of a BMW bounding down a hill out of control because ABS was on. My question of that video was "how about gearing?" No way that BMW guy was in a gear, most likely the clutch pulled in during the panic or shifted to Neutral.

I am not a hot dog off road rider, but so far have done minor testing of front ABS while controlling speed coming down gravel roads. I activated ABS a couple of times and knowing it would come on, found it helpful finding the max amount of front brake to use without wash out.

Basically, i just don't understand the hatred for ABS unless you are hard core, brake sliding corners and such.

Anyone have Strom knowledge of the advantage of tuning ABS off?
well I cant speak to the video but I can tell you there were more than one occasion when off road that the ABS made it impossible to control downhill decent using the brakes. Major pucker factor.

Traction control at the high setting makes getting up lose hills also tough.

Really depends on the terrain. For me in my area there is lots of sand and loose surface so those two factors which make ABS and Traction Control both risk factors for me on this bike off road. Once again this is purely my experience.
 

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This subject interests me. Lots of "True Adventurers" rag on ABS. I watch some video of a BMW bounding down a hill out of control because ABS was on. My question of that video was "how about gearing?" No way that BMW guy was in a gear, most likely the clutch pulled in during the panic or shifted to Neutral.

I am not a hot dog off road rider, but so far have done minor testing of front ABS while controlling speed coming down gravel roads. I activated ABS a couple of times and knowing it would come on, found it helpful finding the max amount of front brake to use without wash out.

Basically, i just don't understand the hatred for ABS unless you are hard core, brake sliding corners and such.

Anyone have Strom knowledge of the advantage of tuning ABS off?
There are times when off pavement I want to skid.
MY V2's ABS works MUCH better than my buddy's BMW ABS in the nasty. His will run away on him.
My plan is centerstanding and running up the rpms a little in 2nd gear to kill abs in bad spots. It's good to practice with and without it.
 

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I went riding off road for the first time with 3 other riders. I pulled the 15 amp ABS fuse and the traction control light came on so I assume it was also disconnected. The speedometer read zero mph while moving, and after a while the fuel injection light came on. While still moving I pulled the clutch in, shut off the engine and re-started. The fuel injection light went out but re-lighted several times later and I would repeat the procedure. When we were finished riding off road I replaced the fuse and everything returned to normal.

I have a few questions - Is this normal for a '14 V2?

I saw a video on how to disconnect the ABS but it was for a 650 Strom. How can I turn off the ABS and still keep my traction control from turning off? I'm pretty good at electrical, so wiring isn't a problem for me.

Is the fuel injection light and speedometer acting up normal?
you should pull the ABS pump fuse not other abs fuse (because i think it kills the ABS the sensor which also is part of the tc and speedometer ).

this should solve all of the problems
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks Alon, I'll try that next time.
 

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As Alon said pull the 25a motor fuse and everything but the ABS will work as normal.

If you do decide to fit a switch you can turn the ABS off and on while moving, there is no need to turn the ignition off and on to reset the ABS.(I have not tried it at speeds above 60kph)

When I fitted my switch I only used a 15a fuse in the system just to see how much load the system was carrying and after 800ks the 15a fuse is still intact so the loads are not huge.
 

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As Alon said pull the 25a motor fuse and everything but the ABS will work as normal.

If you do decide to fit a switch you can turn the ABS off and on while moving, there is no need to turn the ignition off and on to reset the ABS.(I have not tried it at speeds above 60kph)

When I fitted my switch I only used a 15a fuse in the system just to see how much load the system was carrying and after 800ks the 15a fuse is still intact so the loads are not huge.
You might want to test that with BOTH front and rear ABS activated, there may be separate pump circuits and you wont see the full amp draw until both are engaged. If you only tested with front or rear then may not be enough.
 

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You might want to test that with BOTH front and rear ABS activated, there may be separate pump circuits and you wont see the full amp draw until both are engaged. If you only tested with front or rear then may not be enough.
I've had both ends pumping at the same time about 25 times during my testing and the 15a fuse has held in there.

I think because it is a safety feature Suzuki have built a very robust system and by running a better quality system they could use a 25a fuse to protect it where a 15a may have done the job.

I do keep a 25a under the seat in case it's needed.

I personally don't like ABS it interferes with my natural skills and abilities, as a very young lad I learnt to ride and drive in the dirt, it is the perfect place to bring the brain up to speed.

A company I once worked for sent all it's employees to a advanced driving school and I was able to prove to the instructors and my class mates with the cars ABS disabled, under wet emergency conditions I could steer around a object and stop in a shorter distance than I could or they could with the ABS working, that was over 25 years ago and ABS has improved since then but my learned skill and ABS don't work well together.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Thanks for the replies everyone. I'm really interested on installing a switch so I don't have to mess around pulling fuses or putting the bike on the center stand.

Can anyone tell me how to do it?

PS it's a DL1000, not a 650
 

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The info you need is in this thread:
Proper ABS on/off switch

I have done this mod on a 2012 650 and am very happy with it. Its a bit fiddly to solder the cut wire to extend it and incorporate heatshrink as there is not much room to play with, but doable if you're patient and careful.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Once again thanks for the reply but I don't have a 650.

Does anyone have a schematic on how to wire a switch to disconnect the ABS and keep everything else working normally on a '14 DL 1000?
 

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This is how I did it I hope you can follow.

Put a wire to the positive post of the battery and run it to a inline 25a fuse then a switch.

(I fitted my switch down at the master cylinder for the rear brake & by rights the switch should be able to carry 25amps)

From the switch run the wire back to the fuse box and solder a trimmed down spade fitting to the end.

Remove the 25a ABS motor fuse and push the spade fitting into the place where one side of the fuse would have been, it is the side closest to front of the bike.

If you wish you can jam some plastic like a bag into the gap left by the removed fuse to help hold things in place but I have found it is not required.

If you ever have trouble or want to put it back to original just pull the spade fitting and replace the 25a fuse.

The ABS will shut down and restart with a flick of the switch while all other systems work as expected.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Wonderful - Thanks so much.
 

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there is 12v at the fuse that you can take to the switch with an inline fuse and then from the switch to the front terminal on the abs motor fuse. there is no need to go to battery when there is perfectly good 12v right there at the fuse rear side terminal.
 

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By going to the battery it keeps things clean and tidy at the fuse, less chance of things touching each other.
 

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There is another way to do this that I have used in a different application. Get a spare fuse, short it across the battery so it blows, then use a Dremel or file to grind away the plastic just enough that you can solder wires to the two terminals of the blown fuse, then wire these via an inline fuse and switch as Rolex has said. Remove the ABS fuse, plug in the modified one and off you go.
 

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Most of us end up running a good sized 12v power supply to the front of the bike to power things like heated grips and driving lights, this supply can be used if you wish to have your ABS switch on the handlebars, saves a little work and helps to keep things tidy.

If you have not yet run the power up to your bars use decent size cable to allow for future growth.
 
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