NOTE: The images shown and my reference are from a 2014 DL 1000
I am in the process trying to find the reason for an intermittent ABS fault.
Dunlop Trailmax Mission - End of Service - ABS and TC issues
As part of this process
I found there is little information how to read and how to erase ABS error codes. Since I took some pain to sift through previous threads I thought it may help someone else in future if we summarize the findings and relevant threads. They cover all models and a number of years but the majority deal with 2012 DL650 ABS problems.
However the principles how to read and how to erase error codes are basically the same for all models.
NOTE: The plugs do look different over time!
This is a main thread covering 2013 to 2022; ABS Warning light. ABS non-Functioning:
ABS Warning light. ABS non-Functioning
ABS failure, 2015:
ABS failure
ECU FI codes: How to clear FI code??; 2018; NOTE: This deals with ECU FI codes: How to clear FI code??
F1 error; 2018; Lists all the ECU FI codes: https://www.stromtrooper.com/threads/f1-error.415159/
When it comes to ABS failures and troubleshooting there is a lot of confusion since the ABS FI codes and the ECU FI codes are two completely separate set of codes!
First of you need to be aware and then
find the two separate plugs to activate output of FI codes.
See Image 1. The
ABS Plug has only 2 wires. You need to check (and verify) the wire colors form the wiring diagram in the service manual. The ECU Plug has 4 wires.
NOTE: Reference for 2008 WEE images of ABS Plug is here: Where exactly is the connector for enabling diagnostic...
You then need to study the ABS section of the service manual. For the 2014 V2 this is section 4E-1 to 4E-41, i.e. 40 pages!
See Image 2
The following section from
Abs problem describes very well
how to read ABS FI codes:
…. You need to find the fault code being generated and focus on that problem. The ABS hydraulic unit (abs pump assembly) has its own service port separate from the ecm port. A white two wire connector under the left cover below the seat. Remove the plug cover and jumper short the two pins with a paperclip or similar. Then turn the key on without starting the bike. The abs light will flash the fault code.
As an example my bike always generated the same fault code 42. That was exhibited by 4 flashes, short pause, and then 2 flashes. Another pause and the fault code display starts again. I have the official Suzuki shop manual and followed the troubleshooting flow chart for fault code 42. 42 is a front wheel sensor open or short circuit. I performed all of the continuity and short circuit measurements which never failed even when flexing and moving all of the wiring harnesses. Front wheel sensor measurements looked ok but I did get some flaky readings so I replaced the sensor just to make sure even tho I didn’t expect it to fix the problem. It didn’t. The troubleshooting flow chart pointed to the ABS hydraulic unit as the problem …..
Deleting ABS Error codes
So now we have read the ABS FI code(s), (for the listing
See Image 3) and then hopefully fixed the problem.
But now we want to verify that the problem is fixed. However the ABS CPU retains the error code, even when without power (at least mine did). So you need to delete it!
See Image 4
ABS FI Reset:
How to test ABS sensors?
…. Found the mode select coupler reset in the service manual (page 4E-22). How to do it: ignition on + jump it and get the code. 4 blinks, 2 blinks. Disconnect it. Within 12.5 seconds jump MSC for at least 1 second three times. Remove jumper. Ignition off. Put back together…
Well I found it to be quite tricky to get into the “DELETE” mode. I found that I need to
switch open the test switch exactly after the end of the error code cycle, in my case 41 and 42 (I had disconnected the front sensor and turned the ignition on). Once I found the correct moment to open the switch then followed with
3 X ON/OFF;
followed by ON.
Then the indicator light cycled between lit/ not lit for approx. 3 sec. each. It did not stop (I waited quite a while) until I turned the ignition of eventually. Checking for error codes after that they were gone, success!
NOTE 1: How long the error code output sequence takes will depend on the number of error codes that are being displayed, so ignore my 17 sec reference!
NOTE 2: To do the
"3 X ON/OFF; followed by ON" procedure is much easier if you actually wire a switch into the circuit, as shown in
Image 1.
For further reference two more links:
ABS Sensor Testing; How to test ABS sensors? : How to test ABS sensors?
How to test ABS sensors?
NOTE: The ABS sensor (Hall Sensor) is polarity sensitive. You must have the polarity correct to get a real reading of mA!
ABS Disassembling: How to test ABS sensors?
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