StromTrooper banner

Please check as many answers as apply to you.

  • I had a charging system problem on a 2002 DL1000

    Votes: 9 2.0%
  • I had a charging system problem on a 2003 - 2012 DL1000

    Votes: 84 18.3%
  • I had a charging system problem on a 2004-2007 DL650

    Votes: 28 6.1%
  • I had a charging system problem on a 2008 - 2011 DL650

    Votes: 77 16.8%
  • I had a charging system problem on a 2012 - 2016 DL650

    Votes: 121 26.4%
  • I had a charging system problem on a 2014 - 2016 DL1000

    Votes: 149 32.5%
  • I had a charging system problem on a 2017 or later DL650

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • I had a charging system problem on a 2017 or later DL1000

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    458
1 - 20 of 218 Posts

·
FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
Joined
·
38,047 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Let's see if the bike's model or electrical output has any correlation and get an idea of how widespread the problem may be. If the problem was not with the stator, please post what it was.

The categories with no problems have been removed as they were obviously severely under reported.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,275 Posts
It would be more useful if those who have had charging system problems also list their electrical accessories, particularly high-draw items like incandescent lighting and (regularly used) heated gear.

Mileage would probably be good too. I'm not sure it's meaningful to compare an '08 with 5000 miles to an '08 with 30k.

Oh, and "had none" should be "have not yet had any". :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,879 Posts
Hope I don't have to change my vote from - no problem.
Stock '07 DL650, 45k miles, original battery.
Very few accessories.
1] 52w max heated vest usually run on low, rarely used.
2] GPS, less than 50% use.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,275 Posts
Oh, and ...

My '08 is at nearly 28k miles, and has had no electrical problems so far.

The auxiliary lighting is all LED (and in fact I replaced the tail lamps with LEDs). I very occasionally use heated gloves, and frequently use the OEM heated grips. All other draw is very minimal (audio accessories and whatnot).

I have had a Back-Off LED voltage indicator in the dashboard for most of the bike's life, so I will have early warning of problems. It nearly always shows full charge, even at idle, except occasionally when I first pull up to a stop, whereupon a quick blip of the throttle always brings it back. (This indicator showed me that the LED tail/brake lamps definitely made a worthwhile difference in draw at idle.)
 

·
FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
Joined
·
38,047 Posts
Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
I saw no good way of including mileage in the poll. Only ten questions are allowed. I doubt if a larger load would be a contributing factor. A smaller load generates more heat. It would be good if people reporting failures would include load and mileage as a reply though. "Had" is past tense. It is perfectly appropriate at the time of answering the question.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
09 Vee

The regulator/rectifier failed on my 09 DL1000 with only about 300 miles on it. Hoping it was just a fluke.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
517 Posts
For what it is worth:

2009 DL650 ABS, 8500 miles
35W HID headlights
2x10W aux LED
LED turn signals
4x 3W aux LED
Admore topcase LED kit
stock tail light
Using heated gloves & 90W liner when its cold
GPS
Doran TPMS

No problems yet.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,516 Posts
2003

Stator and R/R failure - replaced with Suzuki stator and aftermarket (electrosport) R/R

Electrosport R/R started failing within a couple of months--intermittent discharges--kill the engine and restart and would work fine the rest of the day...
then one day...didn't get better.

Replaced with a Suzuki R/R--doing fine so far.

I'd have to look at my log book for mileage.

Loads? Nothing out of the ordinary.

BTW--If you smell something like hot wiring--look into it sooner than later.
Must have been the epoxy in the R/R. Perhaps if I looked into it sooner it would have saved the stator, perhaps the stator took the R/R--who knows?








.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
413 Posts
I saw no good way of including mileage in the poll. Only ten questions are allowed. I doubt if a larger load would be a contributing factor. A smaller load generates more heat.

Are you sure that the Voltage regulator is the shunt type? I was under the impression that it was more of a switch. Like a warm n safe or gerbings thermostat. On for a little bit then off for a little bit etc.. The more load the longer it's on.
 

·
FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
Joined
·
38,047 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
A r/r can't work like a heat troller. The on segment could allow way too much voltage. A heat troller can work like it does because the regulator limits the voltage the troller passes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,275 Posts
Are you sure that the Voltage regulator is the shunt type? I was under the impression that it was more of a switch. Like a warm n safe or gerbings thermostat. On for a little bit then off for a little bit etc.. The more load the longer it's on.
We'd all have built-in headlight modulators!

Dude. Think about how that would work, and you'll see what a funny mental picture it is. Stroms tooling down the road with electrical systems on for one second, off for one second, on for two seconds, off for one second ...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21,985 Posts
I recently had my stator go, and dealer said the RR was weak as well, their reason the stator fried so they recommended I replace that too, so I ordered of a MOSFET FH012AA and had them install that as well, now the RR runs only slightly warm to touch at a steady 14.5v, not burning hot like the oem RR that let voltage fluctuate over 3 volts

the more I learn about the oem RR, the more I come to believe that its a pert destine to eventual failure, I know they were on my SV, went thru a couple of them, but never a stator



Never pay again for live sex! | Hot girls doing naughty stuff for free! | Chat for free!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21,985 Posts
We'd all have built-in headlight modulators!

Dude. Think about how that would work, and you'll see what a funny mental picture it is. Stroms tooling down the road with electrical systems on for one second, off for one second, on for two seconds, off for one second ...
just cause the charging system modulates doesn't mean the electrical system does, the battery holds the voltage steady



Never pay again for live sex! | Hot girls doing naughty stuff for free! | Chat for free!
 

·
FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
Joined
·
38,047 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
just cause the charging system modulates doesn't mean the electrical system does, the battery holds the voltage steady
You should have seen my headlights modulate when running a heat troller with incandescent lights. The voltage varied from under 12V when the troller was on to over 14V when it was off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
96 Posts
It would be more useful if those who have had charging system problems also list their electrical accessories, particularly high-draw items like incandescent lighting and (regularly used) heated gear.

Mileage would probably be good too. I'm not sure it's meaningful to compare an '08 with 5000 miles to an '08 with 30k.

Oh, and "had none" should be "have not yet had any". :)


Good idea! 30,8?? miles and my stator burnt up. NO electrical extras at all. I run with my brights on almost all the time when the sun is up, but that's it. Replaced my stator with a re-built unit about 1,000 miles ago, and I'm nervous as hell, barely even enjoying riding because I can't keep my eyes off of the volt meter.:headbang:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
413 Posts
We'd all have built-in headlight modulators!

Dude. Think about how that would work, and you'll see what a funny mental picture it is. Stroms tooling down the road with electrical systems on for one second, off for one second, on for two seconds, off for one second ...

Depending on the speed of modulation the battery would be enough of a buffer to hide the fluctuations.

I used to see a similar modulation affect on my KLR headlight when rolling down the highway. As I added load to the system, I could slow the modulation down or speed it up.

The point is I'm not positive that the strom charging system is a shunt type system. There are other ways to vary/regulate voltage. Shunting it is a pretty ancient way of doing it.


EDIT Think of it like this. Old style household dimmers used to be basically shunt type dimmers. They'd run the current through a variable resistor to change voltage and dim the lights. Modern household dimmers are switching regulators. When they are on full power it's full power to the light, but as you dim the lights it starts switching the power on and off to the light, but it's so fast you don't see a flicker, only a dimming of the light as the average voltage become lower. For an instant the bulb is getting full voltage then another instant its getting no voltage. My example of the gerbing thermostat is poor because of the long cycle times. But for a charging system the cycles could be in fractions of a second.
 
1 - 20 of 218 Posts
Top