[dravnx]

I would start with the wiring diagram to ascertain whether something else is in the ABS circuit besides the pump.

 

[trikpat]

Quick update:

Got the bike back from the dealer last Friday. They confirmed there is a big current leak and suspect it might be the ABS module that's faulty. They tried cleaning the connector for the ABS but its still draining the battery overnight.

Did some further testing at home. Friday at 6pm it read 12.5 volts. Next morning it was 11.9 volts

Rode the bike to charge it. When I got home, I checked the voltage and it was 12.6v. Disconnected the ABS plug and checked the following morning. It read 12.5v. (really small change)

So I'm thinking the ABS module is indeed faulty. Unless anyone knows if there are other plugs that are connected to the ABS that I can check?

The ABS module is really expensive. around $1250

 

[BackPacker]

The ABS module is really expensive. around $1250

Does your ABS work properly - are the wheels prevented from locking up if you grab a handful of brake on a slippery surface? No ABS light, no codes?

In that case, as a temporary solution (that might become permanent) I would put a relay inline so that the ABS module is automatically disconnected from power if the ignition is off, like @InverterMan suggested a few posts back.

Unless anyone knows if there are other plugs that are connected to the ABS that I can check?

What I would do is disconnect the plug at the ABS module, and then test if the same parasitic drain is present there. That would definitely narrow down the cause of the drain to the module.

Practically speaking if you disconnect the plug it means you now need to bridge more than one contact. With the right tool (a very narrow pin or very small flat bladed screwdriver) you can remove one of the terminals from the plug (I would suggest the ground/negative, which is usually black with white stripe), then plug the plug back in. You can then bridge only that terminal with your multimeter.

 

[trikpat]

In that case, as a temporary solution (that might become permanent) I would put a relay inline so that the ABS module is automatically disconnected from power if the ignition is off, like @InverterMan suggested a few posts back.

Yes I was thinking of doing this as well. Will buy the electronic parts tomorrow when the electronic shops open as they are closed on the weekends. I'm researching the service manual on where to find the pins he mentioned.

What I would do is disconnect the plug at the ABS module, and then test if the same parasitic drain is present there. That would definitely narrow down the cause of the drain to the module.

Was going to try this as well. I would expect the current to drop when I remove the connector. Planning on buying a new (and more accurate) multimeter tomorrow.

 

[BackPacker]

I'm researching the service manual on where to find the pins he mentioned.

You won't find those numbers in the service manual. He's referring to the standard naming/numbering convention on the relay itself. In fact, the Aliexpress link that @InverterMan posted has pics of the relay with both the stamped and printed markings clearly visible. They even printed the internal schematic right on the relay itself.

Refer to those pictures, or look for instance halfway down this page: Staying Current, Wiring Schematics; Make & Break relay.

A coil based relay has a low-current circuit that activates the relay. The input and output pins of this low-powered circuit are typically called pin 85 and pin 86. This low-powered circuit opens and closes the high-power circuit. On the make&break relay that you need, these pins will be numbered 30 and 87.

If you get a relay, these numbers will be stamped or printed on the relay casing. Not all relays are configured identically, but the numbers will be there.

In your case, the low-current circuit should be triggered once the ignition is on. There's a variety of ways where you can get a switched current up front, the horn positive wire is a common and convenient one (*). Search this forum for alternatives. You connect the horn wire to pin 85 on the relay, and pin 86 is connected to a convenient ground somewhere (black wire with white stripe). If you now cycle the ignition you should hear the relay click. Next, you need to find a convenient place where you can cut the positive wire from the ABS fuse to the ABS connector, and cut this wire. You then wire one end of that wire to relay pin 30, and the other end to relay pin 87. This then cuts the power, and thus the parasite drain, to the ABS when the ignition is off.

* On most, but not all V-Stroms, the horn button is wired into the negative wire coming from the horn. So the horn positive is always active once the ignition is on. Recent discussion on the how and why in another thread.

 

[trikpat]

You won't find those numbers in the service manual. He's referring to the standard naming/numbering convention on the relay itself.

Ahh I see. Okay got it. With the connections on the relay was thinking I just connect the 86 it to the (+) pin on the 12V power outlet under the seat. Looking at the schematic diagram, I looks like its always on when ignition ON.

Now I'm just wondering if this solution would break anything on the bike long term as it looks suzuki designed it so the the ABS unit always gets power even with the ignition OFF.

Does your ABS work properly - are the wheels prevented from locking up if you grab a handful of brake on a slippery surface? No ABS light, no codes?

Also regarding your question from earlier,the ABS works without issues(no codes). The mechanics rode my bike and grabbed the brake to trigger the ABS and they said it worked.

 

[BackPacker]

Now I'm just wondering if this solution would break anything on the bike long term as it looks suzuki designed it so the the ABS unit always gets power even with the ignition OFF.

Dunno, but I can imagine it's mostly a safety feature. Maybe even a legal requirement somehow.

If you let the bike sit with a drained battery, or disconnect the battery for a while, that doesn't break the ABS unit either, does it? Loads of people remove the battery and bring it into the house over winter so it doesn't freeze.

 

[drewda]

Push Suzuki hard ....thats a very isolated failure of a significant safety device....they WILL be on the hook going forward from this being documented at a Suzy dealerfor any liability if it results in injury/death ......and they know it

id be shocked if they didnt come clean on at least the cost of the unit if not the whole tab

 

[BackPacker]

id be shocked if they didnt come clean on at least the cost of the unit if not the whole tab

I'm not so sure. The ABS unit is working properly when the bike is running so it's not a safety issue. The parasite drain is also low enough that it's not going to start a fire when the bike is not running. And the bike is out of warranty like the OP stated earlier.

 

[Rolex]

Is the problem on the 25a fuse or the 15a fuse.

Pull one fuse at a time to check

 

[drewda]

Missing the point

the ABS unit is MALFUNCTIONING ....now documented by a Suzuki dealer.....wven from a risk management strategy it is wise for them to warranty it ....it will of course be standup corporate citizenship and customer retention

regardless that basic 1yr warranty is up

 

[trikpat]

If you let the bike sit with a drained battery, or disconnect the battery for a while, that doesn't break the ABS unit either, does it? Loads of people remove the battery and bring it into the house over winter so it doesn't freeze.

Thats true. But removing the battery turns all the electrical components off. My only concern is if I disconnect the ABS while leaving the other components on, I'm not sure how it would affect these other components. Maybe some of them are waiting on a signal from the ABS unit or something..

--------------------------------

regardless that basic 1yr warranty is up

I wish they'd give me a new ABS unit. But the bike is already 3 yrs old so I doubt they would. They don't even have a spare one for me to test on my bike to rule out the problem on my ABS unit

---------------------

Is the problem on the 25a fuse or the 15a fuse.

I did the fuse testing a few days ago. The problem is on the 15A fuse tagged the "ABS VALVE". Current leak goes away when I take it off.

---------------------

QUICK UPDATE:
Bought a new multimeter. Tested the current(amperage) on the negative terminal with everything connected.. It read 230mA.

Disconnecting the plug on the ABS unit makes it go down to around 3-4mA. So right now I'm about 90% certain its ABS unit that's broken.

But before I go spending on a replacement, I'll ask the Suzuki mechanics take the bike apart and clean all of the bikes electrical plugs/couplers/connectors to see if there is any change.

 

[dmfdmf]

Bought a new multimeter. Tested the current(amperage) on the negative terminal with everything connected.. It read 230mA. Disconnecting the plug on the ABS unit makes it go down to around 3-4mA. So right now I'm about 90% certain its ABS unit that's broken.

I'm guessing closer to 99% from what I have read so far. I was curious so I chased the wires on the diagram someone posted up stream and the ABS module connects to ECU1, ECU2, Combo Meter (i.e. instrument panel), F/R wheel sensor, something called IMU (immobilizer?) and two mode switches (for ABS and traction control?). The mode switches are 2 position and 6 position switches. I would unplug any of these things you can reach one at a time and see if that drops the drain. If you can't get to the mode switch plugs I would cycle through all possible modes and see if that changes the draw.

One crazy idea if this bike has an immobolizer (and you have it in a garage ;-) try leaving it overnight with the fuse in but with the key in the ignition in the off position to see if it still kills the battery. In the wiring diagram I saw something called an immobilizer antenna and maybe it is draining the battery scanning for the key.

But before I go spending on a replacement, I'll ask the Suzuki mechanics take the bike apart and clean all of the bikes electrical plugs/couplers/connectors to see if there is any change.

That is going to be very expensive but maybe worth a shot since ABS replacement is $$$. Give them that list of items (but double check my work) so they aren't cleaning/reseating components that are unrelated to save time/money.

 

[trikpat]

overnight with the fuse in but with the key in the ignition in the off position

I thought it could be the immobilizer as well so I tried leaving it overnight with the key still in the ignition. But still drains the battery.

That is going to be very expensive but maybe worth a shot since ABS replacement is $$$

Our dealer here offers free lifetime service on all bikes purchased from them. (Also one of the things I decided on getting the vstrom). I just need to buy parts from them, oils, filters brakes, etc

 

[dmfdmf]

I thought it could be the immobilizer as well...

Great minds think alike....

Our dealer here offers free lifetime service on all bikes purchased from them. (Also one of the things I decided on getting the vstrom). I just need to buy parts from them, oils, filters brakes, etc

Nice. I'm a DIY'er and actually enjoy that part of the hobby. Also, my bike is a 2007 Wee so not too much in the way of the electronic doodads. It does have ABS though but probably not as advanced as your bike.

 

[Rolex]

The 25a fuse only powers the ABS, the 15a fuse powers a few other things like the speedometer, you will need to unplug the ABS to confirm that is the issue.

You can power down the ABS unit without issue, many of us have fitted switches to do just that, most us the 25a circuit but some have done the 15a.

You can buy fuses with extra power wires atched, you could use one in a switched circuit to power the 15a ABS circuit, I'm only guessing but I think you may loose the clock if if you go to a switched system, I'm at my farm now, when I get home I can confirm this.

 

[BackPacker]

something called IMU (immobilizer?)

I thought IMU referred to Inertial Measurement Unit - the unit that contains three solid-state gyros and three linear accelerators to measure what the bike is doing in 3D. This is used as input for things like cornering ABS and traction control stuff.