Does your ABS work properly - are the wheels prevented from locking up if you grab a handful of brake on a slippery surface? No ABS light, no codes?The ABS module is really expensive. around $1250
What I would do is disconnect the plug at the ABS module, and then test if the same parasitic drain is present there. That would definitely narrow down the cause of the drain to the module.Unless anyone knows if there are other plugs that are connected to the ABS that I can check?
Yes I was thinking of doing this as well. Will buy the electronic parts tomorrow when the electronic shops open as they are closed on the weekends. I'm researching the service manual on where to find the pins he mentioned.In that case, as a temporary solution (that might become permanent) I would put a relay inline so that the ABS module is automatically disconnected from power if the ignition is off, like @InverterMan suggested a few posts back.
Was going to try this as well. I would expect the current to drop when I remove the connector. Planning on buying a new (and more accurate) multimeter tomorrow.What I would do is disconnect the plug at the ABS module, and then test if the same parasitic drain is present there. That would definitely narrow down the cause of the drain to the module.
You won't find those numbers in the service manual. He's referring to the standard naming/numbering convention on the relay itself. In fact, the Aliexpress link that @InverterMan posted has pics of the relay with both the stamped and printed markings clearly visible. They even printed the internal schematic right on the relay itself.I'm researching the service manual on where to find the pins he mentioned.
Ahh I see. Okay got it. With the connections on the relay was thinking I just connect the 86 it to the (+) pin on the 12V power outlet under the seat. Looking at the schematic diagram, I looks like its always on when ignition ON.You won't find those numbers in the service manual. He's referring to the standard naming/numbering convention on the relay itself.
Also regarding your question from earlier,the ABS works without issues(no codes). The mechanics rode my bike and grabbed the brake to trigger the ABS and they said it worked.Does your ABS work properly - are the wheels prevented from locking up if you grab a handful of brake on a slippery surface? No ABS light, no codes?
Dunno, but I can imagine it's mostly a safety feature. Maybe even a legal requirement somehow.Now I'm just wondering if this solution would break anything on the bike long term as it looks suzuki designed it so the the ABS unit always gets power even with the ignition OFF.
I'm not so sure. The ABS unit is working properly when the bike is running so it's not a safety issue. The parasite drain is also low enough that it's not going to start a fire when the bike is not running. And the bike is out of warranty like the OP stated earlier.id be shocked if they didnt come clean on at least the cost of the unit if not the whole tab
Thats true. But removing the battery turns all the electrical components off. My only concern is if I disconnect the ABS while leaving the other components on, I'm not sure how it would affect these other components. Maybe some of them are waiting on a signal from the ABS unit or something..If you let the bike sit with a drained battery, or disconnect the battery for a while, that doesn't break the ABS unit either, does it? Loads of people remove the battery and bring it into the house over winter so it doesn't freeze.
I wish they'd give me a new ABS unit. But the bike is already 3 yrs old so I doubt they would. They don't even have a spare one for me to test on my bike to rule out the problem on my ABS unitregardless that basic 1yr warranty is up
I did the fuse testing a few days ago. The problem is on the 15A fuse tagged the "ABS VALVE". Current leak goes away when I take it off.Is the problem on the 25a fuse or the 15a fuse.
I'm guessing closer to 99% from what I have read so far. I was curious so I chased the wires on the diagram someone posted up stream and the ABS module connects to ECU1, ECU2, Combo Meter (i.e. instrument panel), F/R wheel sensor, something called IMU (immobilizer?) and two mode switches (for ABS and traction control?). The mode switches are 2 position and 6 position switches. I would unplug any of these things you can reach one at a time and see if that drops the drain. If you can't get to the mode switch plugs I would cycle through all possible modes and see if that changes the draw.Bought a new multimeter. Tested the current(amperage) on the negative terminal with everything connected.. It read 230mA. Disconnecting the plug on the ABS unit makes it go down to around 3-4mA. So right now I'm about 90% certain its ABS unit that's broken.
That is going to be very expensive but maybe worth a shot since ABS replacement is $$$. Give them that list of items (but double check my work) so they aren't cleaning/reseating components that are unrelated to save time/money.But before I go spending on a replacement, I'll ask the Suzuki mechanics take the bike apart and clean all of the bikes electrical plugs/couplers/connectors to see if there is any change.
I thought it could be the immobilizer as well so I tried leaving it overnight with the key still in the ignition. But still drains the battery.overnight with the fuse in but with the key in the ignition in the off position
Our dealer here offers free lifetime service on all bikes purchased from them. (Also one of the things I decided on getting the vstrom). I just need to buy parts from them, oils, filters brakes, etcThat is going to be very expensive but maybe worth a shot since ABS replacement is $$$
Great minds think alike....I thought it could be the immobilizer as well...
Nice. I'm a DIY'er and actually enjoy that part of the hobby. Also, my bike is a 2007 Wee so not too much in the way of the electronic doodads. It does have ABS though but probably not as advanced as your bike.Our dealer here offers free lifetime service on all bikes purchased from them. (Also one of the things I decided on getting the vstrom). I just need to buy parts from them, oils, filters brakes, etc
I thought IMU referred to Inertial Measurement Unit - the unit that contains three solid-state gyros and three linear accelerators to measure what the bike is doing in 3D. This is used as input for things like cornering ABS and traction control stuff.something called IMU (immobilizer?)