[trikpat]

After fully charging my battery, it goes down to 11.6V the next day (also my battery is brand new)

I used a multimeter to check and discovered that there is a parasitic draw.
(I connected multimer leads between the motorcycle ground wire and the battery's (-) terminal. Set it to test for current/amps)

I've narrowed it down to the "ABS-VALVE" fuse. When I remove the fuse the the parasitic draw goes away.

I mentioned it to the dealer that the ABS module might be defective, but they're cant confirm it because there are no error codes.

Can the ABS module be broken and not give out error codes?

My suspicion is its still working (hence no codes) but it doesn't turn off even when I turn the ignition off.

SIDE NOTE:
I charged my batteries again, removed the ABS-Valve fuse before going to sleep. Next day, the voltage drop was very minimal. (-0.02volts)

 

[stickerbush]

How many mA was the parasitic draw when you measured it?

 

[trikpat]

These are the readings on my multimeter with and without the ABS VALVE fuse. I think thats 0.2A? its pretty high. Its 0 with the fuse off

 

[stickerbush]

Yes, 200mA is more than I would expect to see. We need to see a wiring diagram. I found one online for DL1000 and it didn't have a fuse called ABS-Valve fuse. I would think that any ABS-related components would not have power with ignition off.

Have you (or dealer) installed any electrical accessories?

 

[trikpat]

My bike is the 1050XT. Not sure if they have the same one on the DL1000. I'll try to find the wiring diagram and send it here.

Yes - its weird that its drawing power even with the ignition off. So I'm wondering if the ABS module is broken or something.

-------------------------
Regarding the electrical accessories, I've recently added some auxiliary lights BUT the battery drains started happening before I hooked them up. (I'm just test fitting the brackets and the wiring but I didn't connect it to the battery)

 

[trikpat]

I couldn't find a wiring diagram from anywhere. So I copy pasted several pages from the DL1050 service manual.

EDIT:

Heres a link to the full image resolution:

1050-XT-wiring-diagram hosted at ImgBB

Image 1050-XT-wiring-diagram hosted in ImgBB

ibb.co

 

[Hans471]

Just a thought here. In the picture with "fuse in" you have the meter on the 10A scale. On the second picture with the fuse out you have the meter on the 200mA scale. Is there a reason for this? Did the "fuse in" reading exceed the range of the 200mA scale? I mention this as some meters are not accurate on the 10A range scale at low amperage ratings.
That said, many of the control units may have circuits that have power all the time regardless of key on or key off. (aka KOKO on some diagrams in automotive). However, those "keep alive" circuits normally have a VERY low draw as they are just keeping certain parts of the device's memory alive. Those draws are normally just a few miliamps. I believe in a discussion on a similar problem a few years back a number was given from Suzuki spec's that called for less than 3mA as being normal. However, it was not stated if that manual was for an ABS or non-ABS bike. Either way on automobile with many electronic modules and computers and using a much larger battery we look for under 20mA with under 10mA being the norm. So, for far fewer electrical items and the small battery on a motorcycle one would expect a very small draw, much smaller than 10mA.
And, for the record, even though a controller like the ABS may have some circuits that switch off and on with the key, they can still have circuits that get constant power. These often keep memory circuits alive for codes and such. Those circuits have extremely low draw. Picture that tiny little battery in a computer that keeps the internal clock and such powered up all the time.

 

[BackPacker]

200 mA at 12V is 2.4W. Possibly high enough to cause some permanent and noticeable/measurable heat buildup.

You would not happen to have an infrared camera or something, would you? With that you can maybe localise where the heat is being generated and narrow down the problem a bit. Heck, if the culprit is not too big and not connected to a heat sink of some sort, you may even be able to feel the heat if you touch the culprit.

200 mA on a 14 Ah battery means it takes just 70 hours to discharge the battery from 100% to 0%. That's way, way excessive. And not very good for the battery either.

 

[trikpat]

Just a thought here. In the picture with "fuse in" you have the meter on the 10A scale. On the second picture with the fuse out you have the meter on the 200mA scale. Is there a reason for this? Did the "fuse in" reading exceed the range of the 200mA scale? I mention this as some meters are not accurate on the 10A range scale at low amperage ratings.
That said, many of the control units may have circuits that have power all the time regardless of key on or key off. (aka KOKO on some diagrams in automotive). However, those "keep alive" circuits normally have a VERY low draw as they are just keeping certain parts of the device's memory alive. Those draws are normally just a few miliamps. I believe in a discussion on a similar problem a few years back a number was given from Suzuki spec's that called for less than 3mA as being normal. However, it was not stated if that manual was for an ABS or non-ABS bike. Either way on automobile with many electronic modules and computers and using a much larger battery we look for under 20mA with under 10mA being the norm. So, for far fewer electrical items and the small battery on a motorcycle one would expect a very small draw, much smaller than 10mA.
And, for the record, even though a controller like the ABS may have some circuits that switch off and on with the key, they can still have circuits that get constant power. These often keep memory circuits alive for codes and such. Those circuits have extremely low draw. Picture that tiny little battery in a computer that keeps the internal clock and such powered up all the time.

It was 0.00 on both the 10A and 200mA scale. I was just checking if it would show a reading on the 200mA and took the picture while it was still on the 200mA scale

Yes - there is a keep alive circuit for the memory but I'm not sure why its draining my battery really fast.

200 mA at 12V is 2.4W. Possibly high enough to cause some permanent and noticeable/measurable heat buildup.

You would not happen to have an infrared camera or something, would you? With that you can maybe localise where the heat is being generated and narrow down the problem a bit. Heck, if the culprit is not too big and not connected to a heat sink of some sort, you may even be able to feel the heat if you touch the culprit.

200 mA on a 14 Ah battery means it takes just 70 hours to discharge the battery from 100% to 0%. That's way, way excessive. And not very good for the battery either.

I'll check for any heat build up. Don't have infrared camera so might just feel it by hand.

And yeah about the 70 hours - I rode my bike last Sunday morning on a 100+km trip. The battery should've been fully charged when I got home. By Tuesday afternoon, when I came to start the bike the battery was flat.

 

[RCinNC]

200 mA does sound really high for parasitic draw. I'm by no mean an electrics guru, but could that sort of excess current indicate a ground fault or an arc fault somewhere in the ABS circuit?

 

[stickerbush]

The wiring diagram shows that the Fuse 4 circuit (ABS-V) only includes the ABS Control Unit. This will be difficult to troubleshoot, the next step would be to swap in a different ABS Control Unit and see what that does. Hopefully your bike is under warranty, if so I suggest having a dealer sort it out.

 

[Hans471]

One additional thought, my own KAM (keep alive memory) reminded me that whenever you are doing a parasitic draw test its best to leave the meter connect for for some length of time and let the test run for awhile. I have seen modules that would have a high draw for a period of time as they charge up their internal capacitors, etc. for as long as 30 minutes. Whenever doing a draw test like this give it plenty of time and see if the draw drops after a period of time. Some modules need time to "go to sleep". There are internal battery problems that can cause the battery to self discharge. An easy test for this is to have the battery fully charged and then disconnect it for a day or so and then retest it. This is not a super rare problem and it will trip up even a good tech sometimes. Its an easy test....

 

[trikpat]

The wiring diagram shows that the Fuse 4 circuit (ABS-V) only includes the ABS Control Unit. This will be difficult to troubleshoot, the next step would be to swap in a different ABS Control Unit and see what that does. Hopefully your bike is under warranty, if so I suggest having a dealer sort it out.

Problem is its out of warranty. And a new ABS module costs like $1000. And they're not even sure whats causing the drain because the bikes not getting any error codes.

One additional thought, my own KAM (keep alive memory) reminded me that whenever you are doing a parasitic draw test its best to leave the meter connect for for some length of time and let the test run for awhile. I have seen modules that would have a high draw for a period of time as they charge up their internal capacitors, etc. for as long as 30 minutes. Whenever doing a draw test like this give it plenty of time and see if the draw drops after a period of time. Some modules need time to "go to sleep". There are internal battery problems that can cause the battery to self discharge. An easy test for this is to have the battery fully charged and then disconnect it for a day or so and then retest it. This is not a super rare problem and it will trip up even a good tech sometimes. Its an easy test....

Actuallty, I've been doing testing for the past few days. I've fully charged the battery and left it overnightbwith the "fuse on". Battery was 12.0v the following morning.

I've also tried it with the "fuse off". Voltage was almost the same the following morning.

Next I'll try to connect the multimeter for 2-3 hours and see if the current drops

 

[Solo]

"I mentioned it to the dealer that the ABS module might be defective, but they're cant confirm it because there are no error codes."

This is BS from the dealer. You do have a verifiable problem. Ask the tech what he considers acceptable parasitic draw.

 

[BackPacker]

Was thinking of something else. Any chance that a relay-operated accessory has been (incorrectly) added to the bike, either by you or by a PO? 200 mA sounds about right (maybe a little on the high side though) for the trigger signal for a coil-based relay.

If you remove the ABS fuse, do you maybe hear the telltale click of a relay?

 

[Currenv]

Always dangerous to opine without a wiring diagram in front of me, but here goes: I would unplug any connectors at the ABS unit before doing anything else. If you still have a draw with the ABS unplugged, , you likely have some kind of high resistance connection between power and ground in the wiring. Green crusties at a connector? If the draw goes away with the ABS unplugged, it has to be something in the ABS.

Vinnie

Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk

 

[trikpat]

This is BS from the dealer. You do have a verifiable problem. As the tech what he considers acceptable parasitic draw.

IKR? I think they haven't encountered this before. But yeah I really can confirm there is a parasitic draw. I just checked my bike again and after 2 days of leaving it alone, battery is now at 10.7v and wont start the bike.

If you remove the ABS fuse, do you maybe hear the telltale click of a relay?

Couldn't hear any discernible clicks when I put the fuse back in. Is there a relay for the ABS? and where would I find it on the bike?

Always dangerous to opine without a wiring diagram in front of me, but here goes: I would unplug any connectors at the ABS unit before doing anything else. If you still have a draw with the ABS unplugged, , you likely have some kind of high resistance connection between power and ground in the wiring. Green crusties at a connector? If the draw goes away with the ABS unplugged, it has to be something in the ABS.
Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk

My suspicion would be something wrong with the ABS as well. But planning to bring the bike to the dealer later. Will have them check all the connectors for the crusties. Hope its not the entire ABS unit. Thats a really expensive fix 😬

 

[Hans471]

If dealer says "No code, no problem" tell them BS. There are many things that can happen that don't set a code. Codes are set by a program that runs through routines that initiate when the key is on and the computer starts its self tests. When the key is off there are still likely power circuits that are connected to the ABS controller. If there is an internal problem with the ABS module it could be causing a draw without setting a code. Post above (#16) gives some good advice about unplugging the ABS module and seeing it things change. Also, post #15 gives some more good advice, something besides the ABS module could be somehow tapped into the ABS power supply and drawing current. Quick and easy check for that also.

 

[Rolex]

The ABS gets power 24/7 I think it is a safety feature.

If I remember correctly on my bike the 25a ABS motor fuse only powers the ABS motor so that must be the source of the drain if it is on that fuse.

The 15a ABS fuse also powers the speedometer so it could be a number of things, but there should be no draw with the ignition off. (possibly the clock)

You will need to set up your meter then start pulling plugs apart and look for a change.

I would set it up across the fuse holder that you believe is causing the problem.

 

[InverterMan]

As was said, hook up your meter and start disconnecting things, first the sensors, then the pump. This may sound ridiculous, and not the way I as a person in the trade would do things, but install one of those cheap 40 amp relays and connect the 85 to ground and 86 to your tail light. Use the normally open 30 and 87 in series with that fuse. My preference is to solve the problem, not bandage it .

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