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Discussion Starter #1
Greetings all,
On a few occasions lately, I've experienced the engine having a cough, or a sputter, then re-igniting spontaneously. Yesterday after starting the bike that was sitting off for an hour while at the gym, she gave a mighty cough, a half-assed backfire then died. She fired up on restarting and behaved the rest of the day. I have to plead being pretty mechanically challenged with new and modern machines. Any thoughts? She's a 2014 that I bought new with no miles two years ago and now has almost 20K on the odometer. Thanks in advance for any ideas, insights from my more savvy compatriots.
Ride safe all.
Gary
 

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Are you blipping the throttle before shut down. Or starting with throttle open at all.? Bike should start without touching the throttle and best practice turn off from idle.
 

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How dirty is your air filter?
Was your bike included in the ECM recall?

Mine has been pretty good about not coughing and dying. The few times it coughed (but didn't die) were after executing the secondary throttle plate learned position reset until it relearned. Maybe it needs to be sync'd and reset. What is your warm engine idle rpm?

How's your voltage and battery?

Shooting in the dark... Not a lot of info to go on yet.

As mentioned in the previous post, it seems that these bikes do not process throttle blips very well.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hi Fellow Troopers,
Answers: I start the bike without twisting the throttle; starts right up. I've had this happen both with and without bliping the throttle ( I actually thought that blipping it after a little warm up and before setting out on a ride might cure the problem - nope ). And I do hit the kill switch with the bike at idle. ECM recall has been done. I expect the air filter is clean as I keep up on all maintainence at my local dealership where I bought the bike, and the '12 650 Strom before this one. And I haven't been riding at all in dusty conditions. Battery voltage at 11.7 when bike is turned on, with lights on, but not running; kicks up to 13.8 very shortly after starting with bike at idle, 14.0 when cruising at 4000 rpm. I'm not sure what all that means, but she briskly turns over at first start-up in the morning. I'm wondering about the throttle body balance - that might be an issue? Thanks guys, for stepping up to the plate here.
Ride safe all.
gary
 

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The throttle body balance seems to only have much effect at idle speeds (several threads discussing it)...

When mine was due according to the mileage schedule, it also had a pretty low idle. And liked to stumble if all three of these conditions were met: Engine stone cold, the rpm was below 3K, and the throttle was barely open.

The local shops wanted at least as much as the Healtech OBD tool costs, so I ordered the tool. Once I locked out the ISC valves and balanced the throttle body's idle circuits the idle rpm was still only about 800rpm. I had to open both idle screws and then rebalance to get the recommended 1229rpm. I did the learned position reset. On my next couple of rides the engine coughed a few times (usually near idle or take off), but after those first half dozen or less hot cold cycles, the engine was running smooth and happy.

Long story short, the balance procedure helped me, but may not be the smoking gun for others. It may be a couple hundred bucks to have a shop do it. The cold engine stumble is starting to return a little bit, but my idle speed has not dropped like before yet. I've been considering another balance to see if it helps again. I am at 20K miles now and my first balance was right about where the service schedule called for it the first time. Looking back at the owners manual, it is due for another balance anyway...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The throttle body balance seems to only have much effect at idle speeds (several threads discussing it)...

When mine was due according to the mileage schedule, it also had a pretty low idle. And liked to stumble if all three of these conditions were met: Engine stone cold, the rpm was below 3K, and the throttle was barely open.

The local shops wanted at least as much as the Healtech OBD tool costs, so I ordered the tool. Once I locked out the ISC valves and balanced the throttle body's idle circuits the idle rpm was still only about 800rpm. I had to open both idle screws and then rebalance to get the recommended 1229rpm. I did the learned position reset. On my next couple of rides the engine coughed a few times (usually near idle or take off), but after those first half dozen or less hot cold cycles, the engine was running smooth and happy.

Long story short, the balance procedure helped me, but may not be the smoking gun for others. It may be a couple hundred bucks to have a shop do it. The cold engine stumble is starting to return a little bit, but my idle speed has not dropped like before yet. I've been considering another balance to see if it helps again. I am at 20K miles now and my first balance was right about where the service schedule called for it the first time. Looking back at the owners manual, it is due for another balance anyway...
Whaaaaat? lol Grimmer, God bless ya, yer WAY over my head!! Still, a great addition to the discussion. As of now, this is not a great problem. Only happens very occasionally. I just don't like shit that ain't supposed to happen! :)
Ride safe.
gary
 

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I don't know about your part of the world but here down under there were a few different ECM's, your problem sounds like the ECM issue that got the upgrade started.

PS; you should not be stopping your motor with the kill switch every time.

That switch is for emergency use, you should use the ignition switch to shut the bike down if possible.
 
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Reborn,

My bike has had a few instances of what you described- when the engine was cold and under light throttle, it coughed/sneezed plus almost stalled. It seemed to be when the bike was colder 45F or so. Thinking & remembering, I don't recall having any of those coughs since I readjusted the TPS position. (see this thread- https://www.stromtrooper.com/dl1000a-2017/417677-snappy-throttle-off-2.html

Something else to consider- Is there any chance that your bike has been getting a shot of E-15 gas? Do your local stations have E-15 in a blender pump? Ethanol gas gets blamed for lots of things which often aren't actual facts, but one thing that ethanol will do without question, and that is create a leaner fuel condition. On a bike or snowmobile with a carburetor, the E10 gas will typically require to be about one main jet size leaner than 100% gas. EFI engines are mapped rich enough that E-10 doesn't typically cause driveability issues. E-15 is too much though, and you'll likely experience a flame-out or cough.

Or, maybe you just might have some crappy gas. (not a shocker with today's fuel) Try buying fuel somewhere else.
 

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+1 on don't use the kill switch ...use the ignition switch.
 

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+1

check posts #22 and #23. Easy to do the check. If the TPS is off it may make a difference once it's set correctly.
 

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.

PS; you should not be stopping your motor with the kill switch every time.

That switch is for emergency use, you should use the ignition switch to shut the bike down if possible.
Huh? Are you saying that it cuts power to the engine in a different way than the key? Is this some weird Suzuki thing? Every bike I have ever had gets shut down with the thumb, and then the key when ready to lock the column. You can shut it down with the kickstand for all it matters.
 

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I'm curious what using the kill switch does that has a negative impact on this beast. Grasshopper wishes to learn, illuminate my dimness.

Jathkajoe
 

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I've been holding the brake and dumping the clutch to kill bikes for years....no I'll effect. It's quick and the bike is always in gear so it won't escape if parked on a slope.
 

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The switch is not built to be continuously used, the contacts will burn and the switch may fail.

If you read your handbook it only ever talks about using the ignition.

Like car the ignition switch is built to do the job.
 
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PSs: don't use the stand switch for the same reason.
 

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Best answer I've seen and makes sense to me.

I use the key. Modern bikes are computerized. Dealership told me it is the difference between yanking the cord on a PC, and using the shutdown command. It's probably not going to hurt anything, but it leaves it in a clean state. Makes no difference to me, so I just do what the people who know the bike inside and out tell me to.
It's clear there is a sequence when the key is turned on start up ...instruments/lights activate and do checks, fuel pump etc. I suspect there is an orderly shutdown as well.
I'll stick with the key ....

second best

I find that if I use the kill switch I tend to forget to flip it back and next time I take the bike out I'm dumbfounded for a second why it wont start, so usually I just use the key.
how many of those "bike won't start" threads are on here ...>:)
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
G'morning!
Rolex - why not stop the bike with the kill switch. My thinking was that it was ok and a good habit to get into so that you would do that automatically in the case of an "emergency". It's happened with a couple of stand still tip overs. I certainly could be missing something.
Bazooka - I only use brand name fuel in the bike. Usually Shell or Mobil. It's always E-10. And I usually pour in a dollop of "Star-Tron" fuel treatment with each tankful. Maybe that's not a good idea?
Thanks for the input, guys. Definitely food for thought. I'll try to be more mindful of my fueling history to see if there's a correlation between that and the symptoms.
Ride safe all.
gary
PS: I guess I missed out on the remainder of the kill switch discussion before I posted this. Hey! I just woke up! lol
 

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FWIW, if you check the internet there are hundreds of discussions on the kill switch. Consensus is that it makes no difference. Most bike manuals tell you to use it - I'll have to check the Suzuki one. And MSF teaches that using it is the proper shutdown sequence.

I suspect that this is one of those religious war things that requires its own special thread - like oil brands ;)
 

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Prior to computerized systems I'd tend to agree tho I've always used the key.

Now I think there is good reason to use the key as the manuals and dealership recommends.

MSF also teaches to use high beams all the time and that's dead wrong as well as illegal in some regions, so I'd discount their opinion on kill switch.
 
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