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I am in the process of doing a DIY oil/filter change @ 4,000 miles on my '12 Wee Adventure. For the record I bought "genuine" Suzuki parts, including $15.89 for a filter and. . .

:furious: $4.93 FOR A CRUSH WASHER!!!!!!! :furious:

Needless to say, next time I'll be looking elsewhere for parts; I'm sure a $.99 BMW washer would work just as well.

Doesn't make any sense to change the oil every 4k and filter every 12k. Maybe every other oil change?

Alternatives? Thoughts?
 

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I don't replace crush washers, I don't use the Suzuki filters, I do change the oil about every 4 to 5 K and the filter every other change. Your other alternative is to really get ripped off and have the dealer do it for you, and what you just spent won't seem so bad. ;)

Oh and it is cheaper to maintain than the BMW's I see on your signature. :)
 

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That's one of the reasons I bought the Suzuki - cost of ownership. I spent $.10/mile on my RT, parts, labor, tires, battery, and an unfortunate cracked sump. The first farkle I bought for the Wee was a Weld86 skid plate.

What is your source of filter: K&N?
 

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$4.93 FOR A CRUSH WASHER!!!!!!!
You need to find another shop. Did they use any lube on you before they rammed it home? Should be less than $2. I think I paid $160 and felt reamed. I don't remember my filter cost but it was less. Try Dual Sport Oil Filters | Rocky Mountain ATV/MC and I think their washers are $1.30. I almost always change the filter and washer and I do the oil at 3 to 3.5K. I ride it hard so I figure I owe it.
 

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That's one of the reasons I bought the Suzuki - cost of ownership. I spent $.10/mile on my RT, parts, labor, tires, battery, and an unfortunate cracked sump. The first farkle I bought for the Wee was a Weld86 skid plate.

What is your source of filter: K&N?
Yeah I really like the K&N filter, and having the welded nut on the end cap is pretty handy. The Wix filters from NAPA are favorites of mine too, but I pretty much just use the K&N now. No torque wrench for the oil drain plug, just snug it down with a box end wrench.
 

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Auto parts stores have 12 mm oil drain plug gaskets. Aluminum, copper, fiber, nylon--all work well, but with aluminum threads I don't use copper--takes more torque to get to seal sometimes. You don't need Suzuki's crush washer, and it doesn't need to be changed every time.

The oil filter is relatively large for the size of the engine. The filter on my 4.7L V8 in my truck isn't much larger, and I run that 10,000 miles. I'm OK with 10k or 12k on the filter. Others replace every time. Whatever helps you sleep good at night.... The local shop has used thousands of Hiflo filters over the years without a problem. Their price is OK--HF138 is the model number. Hiflo makes the motorcycle oil filters for K&N, KN138, they're good, but I'm not sure they're worth any extra cost. WIX 51359 & NAPA 1359 also are good filters at OK prices. $5.88 from Fleetfilter.com; order a year's supply of all filters for the family fleet & friends to share the shipping cost.

I just put on a Gold Plug oil drain plug with a very strong magnet. This comes with an aluminum gasket. The original plug's magnet had no pull, and the Gold Plug magnet is very strong. I'll see how much iron & steel dust it picks up when I next change the oil. I've used similar drain plugs in cars, and they always have a lump of mud-looking iron dust on the end.
 

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I've changed my washer once in probably four oil changes, and for no other reason than that I'd never changed it. My thoughts are that, if you see the drainplug leaking, then you should probably get a new crush washer. I doubt if I'll replace mine again unless I see that happening.
 

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gasket, smashget

... I bought "genuine" Suzuki parts, including $15.89 for a filter and. . . :furious: $4.93 FOR A CRUSH WASHER!!!!!!! :furious:

Needless to say, next time I'll be looking elsewhere for parts; I'm sure a $.99 BMW washer would work just as well.
At today's wages, a dealership can hardly afford to sell a grain of sand at your non-furious price. If you find one who sells them individually that cheap, it's because they wish to keep the goodwill of customers who may do some profitable business later.

At my local dealer, they claim to want $1.26 for that "gasket", but gave me some when I had the bike in for another reason and asked about the washer.

I cannot think of any reason to replace that gasket unless it gets mangled or scarred during plug removal. Whatever spring is left in it when the plug is taken out is just what is left in it as the plug was last tightened. If it leaks at all, it will be very slow and easy to detect before it creates a problem. I don't replace them because I see it as pointless when the surfaces are smooth and it is hard to get off once crushed.

Doesn't make any sense to change the oil every 4k and filter every 12k. Maybe every other oil change?

Alternatives? Thoughts?
I think the oil/filter change ratio is already greatly in favor of the engine at the expense of filter and labor cost, so I'm not inclined to second guess the recommendation. Maybe if the oil had visible particulates in it, I would worry about the filter requiring higher pressure to move the oil, but the oil I take out every 3500 miles looks too clean to motivate throwing extra filters at the bike.
 

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As someone else said, just get 12mm aluminum washers at auto parts or cycle store, they're pretty cheap by a package of 10 or so. I get K&N filters at cycle gear, not the cheapest maybe but I think they are a good quality and I like the nut for loosening. I put on a new filter with every oil change. If I were changing the oil every couple of months I might go every other change, but for once a year, it's an insignificant expense.
 

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I use suzuki filters,
I buy em two or three at a time, get them on-line. I change the oil at 4K miles and I change the filter every third oil change.

And frankly I don't look at the price, since I know it has to be done, and I know that I'm going to use OEM parts

Considering that it's about the only thing I have to do to the bike, it doesn't bother me very much at all.
 

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I don't change the crush washer unless it leaks. Probably once in 10+ years.

$7 for a Fram oil filter at Fleet Farm. I do use $24 a 5 liter suzuki oil though. :yikes:

:mrgreen:
 

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I never replace crush washers and have never had a leak. I bought a Suzuki filter when I bought the bike, but will be running Wix (NAPA) ones from now on. Wix filter and Rotella T6 makes for a pretty inexpensive oil change.
 

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last oil change I did cost me 44.99. that was a special that suzuki has going, oil filter, 4 qts synth oil and the washer. (I have run synthetic since the first oil change, and I always buy an extra qt of oil anyway at every change because it is good to have around, especially since my ninja 250 leaks a little and needs topping off..) just the oil alone would have been like 40 bucks

they do have a 3 qt box too.

oh, and the promo came with a "limited edition" GSX-R hat :confused: hey free hat is a free hat.

$45 every few months is cheap insurance I figure.
part number on the oil change kit.
990a0-10w40-4kt I think the 3 quart is the same except -3kt :fineprint:
 

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Anyone have an educated opinion on the Tusk brand filters? The price is low enough.
Tusk First Line Oil Filter | Dual Sport | Rocky Mountain ATV/MC
Tusk is the house brand for Jake Wilson/Rocky Mt. ATV. We don't know who makes them. Jake Wilson/Rocky Mt. is a reputable outfit, but would they back up a do-it-yourself oil change where their filter came apart and destroyed the engine? We don't know. We also don't know how any filter seller, including Suzuki, would back up the DIY oil changer, but a known brand of filter might be less likely to cause damage. (It would have to be proven that the defective oil filter caused the damage, and that effort to prove it might cost more than a good used replacement engine.) I'll spend the few bucks more on a Hiflo, or WIX/NAPA, or K&N, or Suzuki filter.
 

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NAPA Gold 1359 and no crush washer change for me. I've never had a leak. Like Brian, I just snug the plug up tight with a combo wrench and ride my bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks for all the input. The thread didn't even drift too far off subject - crush washer co$t.

I spent 30 years in the aircraft maintenance business and standard practice there is to replace consumables, not reuse; the price of failure is just too high (no pun intended). No doubt a crush washer can be reused, but by design, it is a one use item. Once it's been "crushed" you can't crush it again, therefore reducing its ability to seal the uneven mating surfaces.

My complaint was the "value" of the $4 washer. Lots of profit there, especially since the filter is only $15.

There is an old saying in the BMW circles: the only thing cheap on a Beemer is the rider.

Love the bike, love this forum.
 

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There is nothing special about a Suzuki or Honda or Yamaha etc. "crush" washer. No need to use aluminum washers either, copper works just as well. But, it is a good idea to use new washers so they do their job correctly.

You want the washer to torque up and seal softly thus easing the stress on the threads that are in the engine case. You want those threads to last a long, long, long, time. I always torque mine up a little below spec just in case my wrench is not all that accurate too.

Crush washers are only a few cents each when you buy them in bulk. Hi-Flo 138 filters every other change for me cost under $6 each when you order a 10 pack. Kinda like buying OEM oil verses something name brand off the shelf at Walmart. Nothing wrong with a non OEM oil, washer or filter.... but I am partial to Suzuki air filters.... :mrgreen:
 
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