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Discussion Starter #1
Hi I read your posts and decided to write you a PM to see if you could point me in the right direction to fix my problem.

I have a DL1000 2007, just purchased and drove it 600 miles with no problems, but yesterday is I was going to start it in the morning it blowed the 30a fuse and lost all the power.

I replaced the 30a fuse with the spare one (start switch off) but the moment I reconnect the black cable that goes through the clear cover box I heard a click and saw that the fuse was blown off again.

For what I've read in this forum it seems to be a direct short to ground, but if that's the case how can I troubleshoot it?

It's kind of strange because I didn't moved the bike since the day before and it was working great.

I'm new to this bike and also not a very experienced rider so any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advanced,

Luis Gonzalez
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Unless a wire was pinched, the most likely problem is a shorted regulator/rectifier. See if disconnecting it keeps the fuse from blowing. If so, Id replace it with a MOSFET type. Shindengen MOSFET FH012AA regulator/rectifier includes a post from Leroy on making a bracket for it though some 1000 owners just discard the stock bracket and mount it directly on the frame. The left side cover comes off by removing the four bolts from the luggage rack, a bolt in the front and any plastic rivets on the bottom. Plastic fairing rivets (Push pins - pop rivets). How do they work? shows how to handle the plastic rivets.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks very much for your response, I will be posting my messages in the corresponding forum so everyone else can also read them.

Ok, so the first thing to try is checking if without the regulator/rectifier the bike doesn't blow the fuse, right? As I mencioned before, I'm very new to this bike (just purchased it used so I'm a little bit scared thinking I may got ripped off!), is it normal that the R/R fails? What can cause it to fail?

The bike was working great and that morning I started it and it failed to start apparently because it was cold, but right after that the fuse blowned.

Anyway, let's get back to the solution, so the first thing is removing the R/R, could you post a picture or give me a hint of where would I find it on my DL1000 year 2007? And also, by "removing" you mean disconect it?

Once I remove it should I place a new 30a fuse and see it the bikes starts? Or just see if it shows the clock and lights on?

Today I put on another 30a fuse (my 4th and last one), and when I reconect the cable that goes to the box with a clear top (I think it's the selenoid but not sure) the fuse didn't blowed, the bike showed the clock and once I open the switch it moved the tacometer needles but once they where at highest point the fuse blowed again, in fact the needles stayed ot highest point.

Again thanks very much for any info, I'm also new to bike forums and look forward to read your ideas and experienced answers.

Thanks and cheers from Mexico City,

Luis Gonzalez
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Disconnecting the R/R is the way to take it out of the circuit for trial. It is under the seat on the left under the painted plastic cover. Access it as I mentioned in my previous message. Here is the stock one. Failure is not common.



Here is a MOSFET replacement.

 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks grey wolf for the valuable info... one more question, once I disconect the actual R/R (Should I disconect the two cables that come from it, right?) should I try to start the engine? Or just check if the fuse keeps blowing without trying to start the bike?

Thanks again,

Luis
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Disconnect the two connectors. You can start it if the fuse doesn't blow. The battery will be at full discharge so don't run it long.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Me again reporting... today I was going to try what you suggested me. I bought 10 30a fuses just to be prepared... anyway, I connected the first fuse just to try it, and... the bike worked perfectly... I rode it near home to test it and no probs...

What can be happening? I think I will need to take it to a dealer anyway and have it check mainly for the electrycal components.

Any other ideas?

Again many thanks for your replies.

Luis
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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It's likely there is a main wire rubbing through the insulation on the frame somewhere. When there is contact, it will blow a fuse.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
More news (bad news I'm afraid)

OK, this morning I was very happy that I would be riding my bike again but surprise, it was dead again... I first thought it was the 30a green fuse again (number 1 in the pic) but I checked it and it's in good condition....

So next I disconnected the R/R (number 3 in the pic) and connected the cable that goes through the white/transparent cap (number 2 in the pic) as suggested but nothing happened, the bike is dead, no clock, nothing.

So now I'm completely lost here... does this discard a R/R malfunction? Could it be the battery, I checked and it was installed on April 2011 so I would think it's still in good shape, anyway, to discard this I disconnected the battery and i'm getting it checked to see if it has charge...

Well this are my sad news for today, I will have to take the car again and drive one our to work instead of half an hour in the bike!

I will be waiting for your advice, thanks very much.

Luis
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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It's gotten pretty complex. There comes a point where distant advice without being able to actually access the bike becomes too involved to work well. The point may have been reached here. It would be a good idea to have the battery checked. The R/R would not be an intermittent problem so the bike working again pretty much eliminates it as a cause. If the battery is okay, I'd seek local help if I were you.
 

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The #4 connectors are for diagnostics for dealers with machines to connect them to. Do get the battery checked. Since the bike worked again for a while, it's not the R/R. If it is is ever shorted it is always shorted. The likely problem is a wire rubbing through to the frame. It may have drained the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks as always for your answers, I'm going to have the battery checked right now, in case it's drained and I have it recharged and the bike runs again, could I drive it to the dealer? It's about 25 miles away.

It's kind of difficult to me to transport it in a pick up or something like it due to where I live and the fact that I don't have one... but if it's really insecure to drive it then I would have to look for a transportation service or something.

Cheers,

Luis
 

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You would need to see if the bike is charging if you get it started. A voltmeter on the battery should read at least 13V at 3000rpm and higher before I'd try a ride. Also, if there is a worn wire looking to find ground, it will stop you in a hurry if it shorts out. I'd look at the wiring to the battery and rectifier especially.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks again for your reply and advice. Well, yesterday I tood the bike to a near workshop of a friend of mine, they disassemble it and checked for any damaged wire but couldn't find anything unusual.

They charged the battery and the bike worked well... until today, I rode it to work and then to a friends house and there it died again, this time I'm pretty sure it's the battery again because it wouldn't manage to start but make some trying sounds and then some battery clicks... I left the battery charging again at a workshop and will install it tomorrow, then I would try with the voltmeter to see if it's charging, and, anyway,I'm taking it to the Suzuki dealer shop to have it fully checked this time.

I'm also planning on buying the MOSFET R/R you recommend and install it.

Well... let's see how it goes tomorrow, I'm getting tired of this strange problems.

As always many thanks for your words,

Luis
 

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Discussion Starter #15
MOSFET installed

Ok, yesterday the new MOSFET R/R arrived and today I installed, also yesterday I left the battery charging at the workshop, today, the battery displayed 13.1 volts in the voltmeter before I connected it.

I took pictures of all the process and would be uploading them tomorrow so I can get feed back to know if I did it right or not.

After installing the new MOSFET and plugin back the charged battery the bike worked again. After two or three minutes at idle the voltmeter displayed 14.4

Tomorrow I will use it properly and, hopefully, this is the happy ending of two weeks of problems with the bike.

One question here: How can I discard more problems, for example, how can I test the Stator with the voltmeter to check if it's working properly. I'm completely new in using a voltmeter so please explain as clear as you can.

So, tomorrow I will add a new thread with all the pics of my R/R replace.

Have a nice day!

Luis
 

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A multi-meter is needed to properly test the stator. Begin with the engine off and cold. Free the three wires from the stator. With the meter set to its lowest setting in the Ohms resistance scale, the resistance between any two wires should read 0.2-0.5 Ohms. The resistance between any of the three wires and ground should be infinite.

Set the voltmeter to A/C. With the engine just started, not warmed up, the voltmeter should display at least 75V when connected to any two of the three wires when the engine is running at 5000rpm.

If all you have is a DC voltmeter, you don't want to see 15V as that is too high. 13.5V-14.8V is a safe range at 5000rpm with no added electrical load. Most people using MOSFET R/Rs report the voltmeter reading being about the same from idle up to any higher rpm after a minute or so. It takes a little while to bring the voltage up from a cold start. A reading under 12.6-12.8 volts means the charging system is barely keeping up. Less than that and the battery is discharging.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Thanks as always for your reply Gerywolf, I'm attaching an image and for what you say I should be setting the voltmeter first at number 1 un the image, right?

And then should I change it to number to? Just to be sure...
 

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The lower circle is the correct setting for impedance to check the stator windings, 200 Ohms. Use that to check for the 0.2-0.5 Ohms. When checking each wire to ground, it's best to use the 2000k setting which should read infinity. There should be no connection between each wire and ground.

To check the voltage output from the stator, use the 200 volt scale on the top right rather than the DC scale you have circled on the left. The ~ under the V means alternating current. It should read at least 75V at 5000rpm. The output from the stator before it gets to the rectifier is AC. The rectifier changes it to DC and the regulator keeps it in a range that benefits the battery.
 

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short

My bike had a short. It was in the yellow wire with white tracer. This was known due to my starter switch wires melting. My friend who is a motorcycle mechanic attatched his test light to the Y/W wire and the other end to one side of the 30 amp fuse holder. ( We did that by taking one of the blown fuses and breaking it apart. We then stuck a prong from the fuse into one side of the 30 amp fuse holder.) Pull all your other fuses and un-plug your headlight bulbs as thay can complete a circuit during this test. Now since you have a short to ground somewhere, the test light will be lit. We then started un-plugging wire harnesses until the light went out. Mine was in the left handle bar assembly going to the high low beam switch. We un-wrapped the factory taping and a few inches from the top found the obvious short to ground.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
As promised I uploaded the pics of my MOSFET replacement, hopefully you can have an eye on them and tell me how you think I did it...

I haven't got the time to check the Stator but thanks for that advice, hopefully it's working fine!

Luis
 
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