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Discussion Starter #1
Connected a 12 volt mini compressor to the 12 volt accessory plug and of course it blew the 3 amp fuse. My fault, did not realize it was for 36 watts or less.
And I have every size fuse except 3 amp. Replaced the fuse with the spare one that came with the bike.

Should I stay with 3 amp fuses or would it hurt to replace it with a 5? I know now not to connect the compressor to it.
 

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The fuse is there to protect the bikes wires and plugs from a overloading and over heating, Suzuki believed 3 amps was the maximum load that system should be put under.


Lighter sockets are not good at carrying a load and can very quickly get hot I would think that is why they went with a 3a fuse.


A 3a is perfect protection, going up to a 5a would allow you to put a greater load on the system than it was designed to handle.


The bigger the fuse the bigger the risk.


This happened to me.

My daughters car popped a 10a fuse, cause unknown, a new 10a fuse was put in place and away she went, a week later she had a fire under the dash.

I had to cut out and replace 66 wires under the dash then go back and find the cause, it was the numberplate light at the other end of the car.

You would think just swapping like for like would be OK but was not in this case.
 

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For a compressor, I'd run a separate line to a 12V cigarette outlet and use a 10 amp fuse.
Don't be chintzy on the gauge of the wire either.
You can use the same outlet to back feed a charger too.
 

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Get a charger pigtail )Battery Tender) and use a 15A fuse instead of the stock 5A fuse. That will assure the compressor can reach the desired tire pressure.
 

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All good replies above. If you used small gauge wire, voltage drop will force the compressor to work harder and possibly overheat. Go with a brand name pigtail as suggested above. Most battery tenders are only charging at 2 amps or so, and their harness wire size is too small for a 15 amp fuse. You can get heavier harnesses at a sporting goods shop for trolling motors. Or look at the wire size - if it is given - and what fuse size the mfr recommends for a particular harness. I'd want 12 awg wire.
 

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The 5A fuse should only be a temporary solution, at most, for the reason given by Rolex above (wire gauge is too thin for 5A and could melt/burn before the fuse blows in case of overload or defect/short). If you don’t need the circuit to get home/ride, safest solution is to keep it open until you have the right size.
 

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Why not invest in a cigarette lighter socket / female adapter, the one with crocodile clips, to clip directly to the battery or any other host battery if ever required. Only issue is removing the seat each time to have access to the battery, but then if the pump is stored under the seat, it will have to come off anyway. On the plus side, the adapter can be used for most any other appliance requiring a short term 12 Volt supply, while camping.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I already solved the compressor issue. I carry a Slime pump and it comes with a plug that fits the same plug hanging off the side of my bike for the battery tender. It is wired directly to the battery. Discovered this after popping the fuse to the acc plug.
I'll buy some 3 amp fuses:)
 

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.....a plug that fits the same plug hanging off the side of my bike for the battery tender. It is wired directly to the battery. …
The Battery Tender pigtail has only a 5A fuse. Change it to at least 15A or else the compressor will quit at about 20PSI when inflating the rear tire. How do I know … ?

No need to worry about overloading the pigtail since current draw is only for a relative short period of time. The compressor cable is no bigger crossection than the pigtail anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The Battery Tender pigtail has only a 5A fuse. Change it to at least 15A or else the compressor will quit at about 20PSI when inflating the rear tire. How do I know … ?

No need to worry about overloading the pigtail since current draw is only for a relative short period of time. The compressor cable is no bigger crossection than the pigtail anyway.
Excellent idea, thank you. I'll make sure to carry the mini battery clamps that come with the Slime kit as a back up as well.
Thanks
 

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Most pumps will draw more than 3 amps. This one here https://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-Electric-Car-Tyre-Inflator-Pump-Digital-Portable-Air-Compressor-Pump-W-LED/323853439306?_trkparms=aid=333200&algo=COMP.MBE&ao=1&asc=20171012094517&meid=59b1e2e1d243471f988732d7d0333656&pid=100008&rk=4&rkt=12&sd=323839242443&itm=323853439306&pg=2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100008.m2219 for instance has 120W in its specs.
120watts at 12volts is a maximum draw of 10amps.

I would not be attempting to draw 10amps down a wire that has a 3 amps fuse. Best to use the battery clips, or to rig up an acceptable solution.
 

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I have a BT pigtail installed on my 2017, I just ordered a short SAE to Female Cig Lighter pigtail from Amazon for $6.99 shipped and will upgrade inline fuse.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
New fuses came in. Then I realized the fuses on the bike are some type of weird kind I never seen before. They basically don't have any prongs sticking out.
Did some searching and found out they are called low profile mini fuses. Now I need to order a box.


Just what I needed, now I will have 3 different style of fuses in my electrical box, lol


Low profile mini

Mini

Regular
 
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