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Discussion Starter #1
I am 61 and have been riding since I was 15. I have a 29 inch inseam. This is the story of my first 650 V-Strom Adventure. I wanted to buy a new 2013 Adventure, but I told the salesman the seat is just to tall. The service manager said he could lower the bike, but I would need to buy a new seat. The seat lower it 3/4 of an inch, the dog bone lower the back 5/8 of an inch and he lower the front forks 3/4 of inch. So I bought the bike. After 6 months of stop and go traffic in Houston, I bought an adjustable dog bone. I calipered the lengths and made sure they were the same length and painted on one of the six outside side so I would know my place. I tested and researched dog bones for the bike. Stock dog bone is 141 mm, for every mm you add you lower your bike 1/8 of an inch, example 149 mm lowers your bike 1 inch. I also had to buy new side stand. I made a big mistake, I though the way it came was a good place to start, no. It was 156 mm, it lower the bike 1 7/8 inches trust me, you don't want to do that, that is a whole other story. I adjusted it up to 151 mm 1 1/4 inches. It worked well for me, but the bike did not feel right.
I did not want to lower the front because, I would need a raiser for the handle bars and did not want the headache of cables, brake line, lights etc. After about a year I accidentlly found a 19 mm raiser. I bought it and had very few problems. it was easy. I then lower the front to 1 3/16. Oddly it did not lower the seat that I could tell, but the way the bike handles now is wonderful.
 

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I know what you went through. I did the same thing, having adapated 3 bikes to my short legs. The Adventure '13 DL650 was much more difficult to adapt. Even my KLR 650 was easier, and I still have to carry a notched end 1x3" board to prop up the rt side of the rear axle to lube the chain or remove a tire, OR carry a short 2x4 to place under the rear wheel so I can get the bike up on the shortened center stand which I prefer to the former way. Raised the front fork tubes, shaved some off the bumpers on the underside of the seat, and so on. My '04 DL was fine with raising the tubes and longer dog bones to lower the bike, worked fine but then I sold the bike, D'OH! Still have the KLR and an already lower BMW F800GT. The Adventure must be taller by spec than the other bikes, haven't checked that. Finally found some thicker sole riding boots, which help some. Oh well.
 

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So what is the issue?

I am 30" and since initial lowering had been rising bike ever since. I would get it back to stock if haven't been using it for 2up for which I need to be able to tiptoe on both sides. I think rear is lowered by 5/8" now and front by 10mm or so.

BTW you can cut seat bumps to get extra 1/2". Another area to look at is HyperPro rear shock spring. It considerably reduces difference in sag between loaded and unloaded bike, so you have the standover clearance but when you sit down or load bike or have pillion climb onboard bike doesn't sink low as much. This gives me higher ride height and doesn't upset handling as much.

And be careful it is my understanding front cannot be lowered more than 17mm without hard parts coming into contact at full compression good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I drive to work rain or shine. Standing on my tip toes for a hour everyday, makes you want to lower your bike. Thank you for the advice on the front end. I plan on updating my front suspension in the near future, but for now I think I will be all right. Speed bumps have been no problem, 5.90 - 1.19 lower, - .75 sag= 3.96. I think 4 inches will be all right for normal driving.
 

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I also have been shorted in the leg department, with a 28.5" inseam. On my 2016 650 I have lowered the rear 3/4" and raised the forks 1 1/8". I am using 2" bar risers and completely removed the seat bumpers. With the forks raised that high, and running a fork brace, I have yet to have anything come into contact up front there. I would NOT recommend raising the forks any higher than that as I feel I am rite on the line contact wise.

With these adjustments I am now almost able to flat foot at a stop.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thank you that makes me feel better about my front forks.

Adventure Tech,LLC sales
150 mm linkage set - lowers rear of bike by 1 and 1/8 inch.
Uses 7075-T6 metal. They are stronger than stock and after market links costing more than twice as much.
At less that's what they say.

You could put the rubbers back in.
 

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I drive to work rain or shine. Standing on my tip toes for a hour everyday, makes you want to lower your bike. Thank you for the advice on the front end. I plan on updating my front suspension in the near future, but for now I think I will be all right. Speed bumps have been no problem, 5.90 - 1.19 lower, - .75 sag= 3.96. I think 4 inches will be all right for normal driving.
Same here rain or shine in heavy traffic 50mi each way. You get used to flatfooting on left side, or just balancing bike without putting foot down. Hold the bike by pressing on peg and hugging with thighs.
 

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Yup 29" here and no mods aside from taking the rubber bumpers off the seat.
Biggest issue and I do mean biggest - is parking in non-level spaces. Even a slight incline can mean no joy getting the bike upright since I don't have enough leg to get it past the tip point. Park nose down and you'll be struggling to tip toe uphill backwards.
I'm still considering lowering but so far I've resisted.
 

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Brojon, don't be concerned. Go ahead and lower it a little. Even 1/2 inch makes a difference in feel. It just takes 10 minutes to slide the fork tubes up and no cost at all. Dog bones are cheap. It rides just fine if not better. Mine is down about an inch or so and no problems in 30,000 miles, track days, drag strip, etc.
 

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You can get 1/2" with your boots as well.
I had mine resoled a bit thicker ....I also have Milwaukee troopers which give you quite a lift. Likely near on an inch

 

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Brojon, don't be concerned. Go ahead and lower it a little. Even 1/2 inch makes a difference in feel. It just takes 10 minutes to slide the fork tubes up and no cost at all. Dog bones are cheap. It rides just fine if not better. Mine is down about an inch or so and no problems in 30,000 miles, track days, drag strip, etc.
If you get get adjustable.. they are a little bit more but worth it IMHO
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thank you for your comment. Before I lower my bike I consider sale of my new dl650 and buying a new plain Jane Triumph, that is what I used to ride. The reason I wanted the dl650 was the water cooled engine with saddle bags, crash bars, windshield, and a normal riding position. Now that I have lower the bike, I love it, it handles great. It is easy to park and I have no problems with speed bumps so I am very happy. I like cruisers, but I can dodge crazy drivers better with my feet below me and sitting up right. The 150 mm dog bone fixes the seat height, but the bike does not handle as well as it should until you lower the front end as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I was going to sale my new DL650 and buy a new Triumph, seat height 29.5 inches before I lower my bike. I bought the DL650 because, of the water cooled engine, saddle bags, crash bars, windshield, and a normal riding position like a Triumph. Now that I have lowered the bike, I love the bike, it handles great, easy to park and speed bumps have not been a problem. The bike has so much going for it, I wish Suzuki would have a kit at the dealers, so when you buy the bike you could be happy right off the show room floor. Their are a lot of people with a short inseam.
 
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