[UBarW]

[email protected]" is spec, but... How quickly would you change when you get to that?

I will likely put 2k or so on before the budget allows for a new chain. My instinct is to keep the slack at a proper level, oil it regularly, and it will be fine till I get the new one.

Is that how you see it? I am right at that 12.5+" range...

 

[rconti]

Can't give you any numbers, but as long as you're able to adjust it to keep the slack appropriate, I wouldn't stress. Don't go past the limit mark, but I tend to run my chain more slack than most, it's not the end of the world.

 

[UBarW]

cool, thats what I was thinking, I still have a few 'hashmarks' on the swingarm...

Thanks!

 

[greywolf]

A new chain is 12.5". Don't worry much about the wear limit. If you can lift the lower run until it is tight, pull the chain away from the rear sprocket and see an open gap between chain and sprocket anywhere in the run, replace. If any links get kinked so they don't straighten out across the lower run on a manual wheel rotation, replace. If any O-Rings come off, if red dust that isn't local soil appears or if any plate or roller shows a crack, replace. The swingarm marks are for alignment only. They have nothing to do with wear limits. Some people say to replace the sprockets every other chain if they look new after one chain. I prefer to replace chains and sprockets as a set.

 

[UBarW]

Well, there are no kinked links, havent seen any o-rings off or missing, and I will check the play on the sprocket with the lower run tight. I hadnt thought of checking that way...

Mucho thankso

 

[Dino M]

As GW says, unless there is something obviously wrong with the chain like cracked plate, red dust... I maintain it and don't worry about it. When the sprockets are toast I replace everything at once. No sense trashing a new chain on old sprockets is the way I look at it. Or for that matter, trashing new sprockets on an old chain. By the way, nice paint job. You must really like yellow.