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2021 Relay type and location

2976 Views 12 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  Rolex
I have a 21 Vstrom and want to upgrade the turn signal bulbs to LEDs so they are brighter. I bought some ones of Amazon (OXILAM 7507 PY21W BAU15S LED Bulbs) which are suppose to have built in load resistors but along with sporadic hyper flashing the turn signal indicator stay illuminated and just flashes brighter. I was going to try and stick a new LED compatible relay in but don't know what type and where it is located.

Also if this doesn't work any suggestions on a brand and place to buy them in the US?
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Is yours a 1050? The 1050XT already has LED indicators so I would expect it should be possible to change to LED. I don't understand the LED relay statement. A relay is generally only required when you want to switch higher currents that the original switch was designed for. LED's will invariably be less of a load than filament bulbs so a relay should not be required. I can imagine that some messing around with resistance values for your particular model may be required to get a generic LED flasher to work correctly?
Sorry its a 650 so I have incandescent bulbs which are not very bright in my opinion. And as far as the relay, looking around unless the relay is LED specific when you plug a LED in you get hyper flashing. These bulbs I bought are suppose to eliminate that need with a built in load resistor but it doesnt seem to work so i want to try a different relay before sending them back
Change the relay to the three pin LED rated and ground the spare pin (run an extra wire to the battery).
If you do anything else (non-LED relay) or a LED rated 2 pin relay the flash rate will be unstable.

I have that setup on my 2014 DL1000 with a CAREFUL choice of LED replacement bulbs and it works well.

If you use bulbs, you also need to put a THIN smear of silicone adhesive on the side when you install them. They are heavier than the spec'd bulbs and will wobble and wear away the connector at the base otherwise. A thin smear of silicone and they can still be pulled out if need be.
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below is a link to the one i have had in my 2014 DL1000 since june of 2020 with no issues.

On my 2017 DL650AL7, I changed my turn signal bulbs to LED and got my relay off Amazon for $6.99.

Here it is....
MGI SpeedWare 2-Pin LED Turn Signal Flasher Relay 12v, Adjustable Speed (1 Pack)

The relay is located at the rear of the battery.
PeteW has the answer to your problem
Some of the more expensive 2 wire flashers MIGHT work, but it's a hard ask - with only two wires the relay only gets powered some of the time and that makes it really hard to get a stable voltage to the control electronics and a stable flash rate.

I tried that, had it set up and working and the next rainy day it was running 3x faster.

With a 3 wire relay it always has power and ground, electronics is always powered and the flash rate stays stable.
Often with the 2 pin and a full LED system the dash turn signal indicator stay illuminated, when you fit the 3 pin with the extra earth wire that problem goes away.

If they come from Suzuki with LED's they have the 3 pin and the extra earth.
Change the relay to the three pin LED rated and ground the spare pin (run an extra wire to the battery).
If you do anything else (non-LED relay) or a LED rated 2 pin relay the flash rate will be unstable.

I have that setup on my 2014 DL1000 with a CAREFUL choice of LED replacement bulbs and it works well.

If you use bulbs, you also need to put a THIN smear of silicone adhesive on the side when you install them. They are heavier than the spec'd bulbs and will wobble and wear away the connector at the base otherwise. A thin smear of silicone and they can still be pulled out if need be.
I assume I would ground it to the negative side of the battery.

I think I'll do this, I ordered a two pin flasher relay but I'll send it back and get a 3.
Yes to connecting to the negative terminal. You can ground it anywhere but grounding it at the battery ensures no corrosion issues and for something as noise sensitive as a flasher relay is a good idea anyway. It's not a long run and easy to do neatly. A standard spade connector fits on the spare relay contact, ring connector the other end, it's pretty much made to just work.
I always clip my ring connectors to make them a U or a C so I don't need to remove the battery bolt each time I only have to loosen it.

If you get the cut just right, they will only come out with some force and will never fall out.
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