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After a bunch of looking for a tutorial about how to sync the carbs on a new model DL1000, and not finding anything useful, I decided to just pull mine apart and do it myself.

I have about 4500 miles on my 2014 and have been having issues with hand numbing vibration (new set of aluminum motocross bars transmit more vibes than the cheezy junk stock bars that I bent from a gentile drop).

Anyway, I noted that on the side of the airbox on the new Dl1000, there are a set of rubber mounted vacuum sensors that are attached to the left side of the airbox. One with a blue wire bundle attached and one with a black wire uncle attached. I put a 1/8" Y in the vacuum line about 3 inches down from the sensor, and put a 6-8 inch line from each Y down the frame rail and put a male-male end and a rubber vacuum plug on each. These allow you to sync in the future without removing the tank or airbox. I put everything back together, and propped the tank up about 4 inches in the rear. Once I started the bike and warmed it up, I attached my Morgan Carbtune (best manometer available BTW), and after setting the idle at 1500, I noted that I had nearly 1/4 inch difference in the reading between the cylinders on a basically new bike. I used the adjustment screw on the rear throttle body. (right side closest to the cylinder head, the other one is the intake butterfly). It took about a full 1/2 turn or more to get the manometer to show a perfect sync.

This did not solve my vibration problem, but I did note that on a gentile drive back from the gas station today over a 20 mile stretch my readout registered 64 mpg vs the 60 I have previously seen (60mph the whole way gps indicated Stock speedo is 4mph fast)

The bike seems to run just slightly better than before, not super noticeable, but you can tell.

Sorry I didnt take any photos, but once you get past the terrible tank removal process and getting the front air horn off the throttle body it is pretty easy from then on.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Be very careful here. Suzuki says the linkage should not be adjusted for emissions reasons. A TBS should only be done using the throttle body air screws. Also, a Suzuki SDS tool or a HealTech Suzuki OBD tool is required to lock the ISC valve in the proper position before adjusting the air screws. The linkage, air screws and ISC valve all interact with each other and the old TBS method of adjusting the linkage can interfere with the relationship.

 

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Interesting info GW, thank you. I will keep an eye on things and if I have any issues I will report back. We dont have emissions checks here, so thats not an issue for me.

I put over 100 miles on today and it seems fine.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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I read a message like yours from a 650 owner in 2007 when they changed the TBS procedure. His result was much worse than yours. I hope you have better luck.
 

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I have been searching for days and was about to start my own thread... My '14 DL1000 has been exhibiting the symptoms similar to what others here have claimed were fixed by a TBS. The symptoms seem to have gotten worse, or perhaps they just bug me more. Especially when cold the engine stumbles when less than 3000 rpm and slightly open throttle. It didn't do that when new (about 6500 miles now).

GW, I have been reading through the adjustment procedures in the service manual for the throttle position sensor, the secondary throttle position sensor and the throttle body sync. One sensor says to use a volt meter... Check, another require a special tool that sounded like it was just a fancy switch to jumper a cable (at first I thought the lcd display that showed too high, center, and too low were part of the tool, but now I'm thinking the dash display does it and the special tool is just a nice jumper switch with a compatible connector.) But the sync procedure, as you mentioned above, requires the SDS tool to hold open the ISC valve. My question and searching quest is this: has anyone figured out a way to do a legit sync without the SDS? I. E. Is there a nice hack / jumper that can manually open that valve without an SDS? Or am I doomed to take it to the dealer for service?

The dealer service center I spoke to about it before when the symptoms just showed up would only say that it shouldn't need a sync at such low mileage and went on to spew about how I'm just not letting it idle long enough to get up to operating temperature before riding it... I'm not sure if he was just a front desk guy or one of the technicians, but that was enough for me to seek elsewhere.

Can the V2 be DIY synced? The service manual and forum threads also talked about the sensor and butterfly adjustments being interrelated with the sync. Is there an order in which all the adjustments need to be made? I also recall that one of the adjustments required the SDS to reset a "learned" parameter (home position?) after adjusting.

If I do have to take it to the dealer for a sync, I would like to have all the possible DIY adjustments completed first (unless the service center tells me they are included in the procedure / price of the sync.
 

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I do recall finding a thread with a link that promised some viable instructions for at least one of these adjustments, but when I clicked the link it was broken, or required some login credentials or the IT infrastructure at work was blocking it. I didn't get to look at it to see if it was applicable or useful for DIY purposes (ie no special un-obtainable tools required).
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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A TBS won't help. What you describe is a classic low rpm lean condition. A lot of Vee2s have it. The real fix is a new ECM. The trick is convincing the dealer that it is needed. Otherwise, a device to change the fuel map like a Power Commander would work.

A TPS adjustment can help some and that is done the same way it always was. If you have a central dash at idle -C00 in dealer mode, it is too close to perfect to affect running. Don't confuse a throttle position sensor adjustment with a throttle body synch. They are totally different adjustments.

See how to put the bike in dealer mode at FAQ: Dealer Mode & FI Error Codes

It's best to get the dash to rise at 1500-1800rpm but it won't make much difference as long as the dash is central at idle. A TPS adjustment is very touchy and needs a T25 Torx security bit for the screw. One link on the process is Checking TPS question but it has a lot of missing pictures and broken links because of its age.
 

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Sorry for any confusion, my meaning in the previous post was for a throttle body sync. Only wondered if the throttle position sensor needs to be dialed in before the sync is performed.

Other guys have posted that syncing the throttle body has helped cure similar symptoms for the idle and near/idle cracked throttle situation. The engine cleans up as soon as the throttle is opened farther (>1/8") or as soon as it reaches >3000 rpm (even without opening the throttle more). I have not experienced any back fires or stalls, which I understood to be the primary markers for the ECU problem.

I'm out of warranty, so I don't expect it to be too hard to convince them to replace, but nearly impossible to convince my wallet to cough up the dough. Unless there had been some success in convincing them to replace at no cost out of warranty...

Have people had the lean ECU condition without the stalls and backfires? Possibly running lean, but at my altitude (4800 feet) isn't as severe? Maybe I'll have to start looking into those piggyback fuel map modifiers... Do they offer units that only mod certain parts of the map? Seems that it would be difficult to program and dial in... Unless they have a unit already setup to specifically cure the V2 mapping issues.
 

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Throttle Body Synchronization is always the LAST thing you should do when doing a tune-up or maintenance. About every other thing you do....can effect TBS, so get that stuff dialed in first.
 

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And, you don't have any symptoms indicating a TBS is needed. It's rarely helpful on a post 2007 650 or post 2014 1000.
 

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I have been searching for days and was about to start my own thread... My '14 DL1000 has been exhibiting the symptoms similar to what others here have claimed were fixed by a TBS. The symptoms seem to have gotten worse, or perhaps they just bug me more. Especially when cold the engine stumbles when less than 3000 rpm and slightly open throttle. It didn't do that when new (about 6500 miles now).

GW, I have been reading through the adjustment procedures in the service manual for the throttle position sensor, the secondary throttle position sensor and the throttle body sync. One sensor says to use a volt meter... Check, another require a special tool that sounded like it was just a fancy switch to jumper a cable (at first I thought the lcd display that showed too high, center, and too low were part of the tool, but now I'm thinking the dash display does it and the special tool is just a nice jumper switch with a compatible connector.) But the sync procedure, as you mentioned above, requires the SDS tool to hold open the ISC valve. My question and searching quest is this: has anyone figured out a way to do a legit sync without the SDS? I. E. Is there a nice hack / jumper that can manually open that valve without an SDS? Or am I doomed to take it to the dealer for service?

The dealer service center I spoke to about it before when the symptoms just showed up would only say that it shouldn't need a sync at such low mileage and went on to spew about how I'm just not letting it idle long enough to get up to operating temperature before riding it... I'm not sure if he was just a front desk guy or one of the technicians, but that was enough for me to seek elsewhere.

Can the V2 be DIY synced? The service manual and forum threads also talked about the sensor and butterfly adjustments being interrelated with the sync. Is there an order in which all the adjustments need to be made? I also recall that one of the adjustments required the SDS to reset a "learned" parameter (home position?) after adjusting.

If I do have to take it to the dealer for a sync, I would like to have all the possible DIY adjustments completed first (unless the service center tells me they are included in the procedure / price of the sync.
I had a dealer adjust the throttle linkage. They too suggested that I wait but are pretty switched on and in the end did it as a part of the first check up. It did help some but getting the EMC replaced made a real difference. I could have stopped there. The V2 runs passably but imperfectly with the stock exhaust.
I see that you are in Utah. Relatively speaking, you are not so far from Dale Walker at HoleShot. He has a '14 V2 and is extremely knowledgeable about the issues. (also a nice guy) He sells a replacement brain and has specific fuel maps for your bike. Holeshot Performance Products, Inc.
 

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Thanks guys. I'll give Dale a call. I thought I had squeaked by without the ECU issue since I never had any stalls or backfires, guess maybe not after all. Too bad it didn't get bad enough while I was still under warranty (12 month warranty, right?).

It isn't annoying enough (yet) to warrant the $1200 ECU + whatever they would charge to program it. Or can I just order it, plug it in and go...?

Perhaps one of those fuel map modifiers for a few hundred dollars would be a better option (if needed) for now. I assume that there are no long term effects from continuing to run it as is.
 

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Thanks guys. I'll give Dale a call. I thought I had squeaked by without the ECU issue since I never had any stalls or backfires, guess maybe not after all. Too bad it didn't get bad enough while I was still under warranty (12 month warranty, right?).

It isn't annoying enough (yet) to warrant the $1200 ECU + whatever they would charge to program it. Or can I just order it, plug it in and go...?

Perhaps one of those fuel map modifiers for a few hundred dollars would be a better option (if needed) for now. I assume that there are no long term effects from continuing to run it as is.
No long term effects to using the stock one - as far as I know. The installation only takes like 5 minutes. And for the record, the ECU replacement was never a warranty or recall function. And dealers never approve them. The approval comes from Suzuki Customer Service in LA as a rideability / safety (stalling) issue.
 
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