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Discussion Starter #1
Like so many others, I noticed that my speedometer was reading high. When it said I was going 70mph, I was actually going 64. I know that this topic has been discussed at length so I won't get into it too much other than to say that since the ABS was added in 2014, it's made the process of correcting the darn thing much harder.

As others have noted, you can access the Speed Sensor Output Signal (pink/white wire) at position T37 on the small connector of the ECM. It's really easy to spot because it is right on top of the bundle. BUT, since my bike is brand new and still under warrantee I am loath to do anything (like cut into the ECM cable bundle) that might cause any questions should I have to take it in for covered service. So, the question is where else can I get to it that is relatively easy to get to. Taking off the instrument panel is a definite bugger and accessing switched power is not really nice. Plus, how do you get to your device should you want to change your adjustment?

Well, I think I found the place: The instrument panel connector bundle on the top right side of the radiator (left side if you are facing it from the front.) And although switched power here is a bit of an issue, I have a solution for that too. So:

1) Remove the right hand radiator side cover (the lowest cover with the single bolt holding it on). You might also want to remove the aluminum trim piece at the top of the tank to make it easier to reach down.

2) Locate the Instrument Panel Connector Weather Boot at the top left of the radiator next to the radiator cap. (images 3 and 7) Pull the cap back and unclip the three connectors. They are all keyed and can not be misplugged when you reconnect them.

3) The Speed Signal is the top connector and is the pretty pink and white wire. (image 4) You will have to cut the black tape around the bundle back a bit to give yourself enough room.

4) Cut the pink/white wire half way between the hard bundle cover and the connector. You can use the splicers that come with your kit but I prefer to solder the wires and cover with heat shrink (image 5) but whatever you do, make sure you have a good and permanent electrical connection and that the correct wires are on the correct side.

5) For the switched power and ground I used the Heated Grip connector hidden behind the center of the radiator beside the other connectors there. Using Suzuki part#36852-06g00 I was able to bring the signals out to a place I could access them. Actually, I had installed auxiliary lights previously so it was already there. Just be sure to keep the polarity correct as both wires on the adapter are the same.

6) I located the correction device (SpeedoHealer) on the front of the frame just below the triple camps where I can get to it easily in case I want to adjust it. Hey, I live in California so you all know I never have to worry about rain.

After I plugged everything back in, put the covers back on and readjusted the clock (the only thing that got reset) I entered a correction of -8.2% and WOW, it really worked. It's now spot on, or as close as I can tell with a GPS and a speed sign near the house.

Although I can't be certain, I imagine the SpeedoDRD and the other devices would mount similarly.

Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah, saw that but thought I'd add the step-by-step with photos. Also, I never like having to cut or splice into more wires than absolutely necessary, so that's why I mentioned using the Heated Hand Grip connector for switched power. There's not much length exposed on the switched power and ground wires in the Instrument Panel connectors (as mentioned in the other thread) so trying to clip or splice them and then get everything back under the boot seemed a little too difficult.

Cheers!
 

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Done my speedo DRD today, no more false readings. My magic number is -6.4
Bought the DRD from AdventureTech, Great Service Rick!!
Good product:smile2:
 

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When I first picked up my Vee2 I noticed that the "your speed" signs in the neighborhoods were different than my speedometer reading as well. However, when I setup my cellphone running a GPS based speedometer app I found that my speedometer was not off by a percentage as one would typically expect. It would always read +4 mph whether I was going 15, 25, 35, 50, or 70 mph... for this reason I never looked into correcting it since all the correction devices just gobble up and then re-transmit a percentage corrected pulse to the ECU.

Has anyone else experienced this? Or am I just going crazy? Perhaps another test to confirm is in order.

Incidentally, I have "spot checked" the speedometer in my car by timing with a stopwatch between the mile markers and found it to be right on. This was confirmed by comparing it to the same speedometer app as was used on the motorcycle. So it appears that the GPS speedometer app on my phone is at least working correctly.
 

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Some of the GPS devices are not very accurate. Also, the longer and straighter the run, the accuracy of any GPS device be better for speed & distance.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I checked a couple of different apps on an iPhone and both a Magellan and Garmin GPS and some of the things I noticed with all of them were:

1) There was a latency between the time I hit a particular speed and the time the GPS indicated that speed.
2) The speed indicated by most of the apps jumped around a lot even when I was running steady so there didn't seem to be any peak averaging going on.
3) The speed on the Garmin seemed to be the most accurate but the Magellan was pretty decent too.
4) The local Speed Sign seemed pretty accurate too.

All those things being said, my speed seemed to be off by a definite percentage so once I corrected it by -8.2% is seems to be spot on, as close as I can tell.

A couple of other things (that have been already noted in other threads):
1) The odometer was reading high too, but not by the same percentage so now it reads a bit low.
2) Along the same lines, the indicated gas mileage has decreased.

But I'll put up with both of those to know that the indicated speed is the actual speed.

Cheers!
 

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Speaking of speedo calibration I used what counts - a police speed camera.

One pinged me doing 110 km/h. I spotted it, glanced at the speedo, saw my speed on the bike's speedo (Blackbird at the time) and on a Garmin GPS calibrated cycle computer which indicated around 110. I didn't glance at the GPS as it was hard to read at the time.

But I downloaded its logs when I got home and located the position and rough time of the event. It too said 110 (prior to that, around the corner it said 120...).

So, that is good enough for me. After all, it's trying to dodge the speeding fines which it's all about.
 

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5) For the switched power and ground I used the Heated Grip connector hidden behind the center of the radiator beside the other connectors there. Using Suzuki part#36852-06g00 I was able to bring the signals out to a place I could access them. Actually, I had installed auxiliary lights previously so it was already there. Just be sure to keep the polarity correct as both wires on the adapter are the same.

I want to use this plug to power a set of heated grips. I tried to see which one was ground and what I found was that the white with green and the black with white wires both had continuity to ground. How did you tell hot from ground?
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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B/W is ground. W/G is hot. Normally, ribbed is ground and smooth is hot. The adapter wires may be the same color but check for a ribbed wire.
 

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Interesting. My GPS is pretty good about pointing those cameras out so far (symbols on the map) and I have a Cobra radar detector that works pretty well but they are always trying new stuff. I drove through Illinois a while back and they jam the radar detectors with a continuous flood of waves in places. lol

I have two GPS's on board for a corrected speed but may put a correction device on anyways in the winter for something to do.

Speaking of speedo calibration I used what counts - a police speed camera.

One pinged me doing 110 km/h. I spotted it, glanced at the speedo, saw my speed on the bike's speedo (Blackbird at the time) and on a Garmin GPS calibrated cycle computer which indicated around 110. I didn't glance at the GPS as it was hard to read at the time.

But I downloaded its logs when I got home and located the position and rough time of the event. It too said 110 (prior to that, around the corner it said 120...).

So, that is good enough for me. After all, it's trying to dodge the speeding fines which it's all about.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Thanks again Pat. Just out of curiosity, why do both wires show continuity to ground ?
What method did you use to check? Some testers other than ohmmeters will show continuity if the hot side is connected to a load with a low enough resistance.

I did learn a couple of things from checking the wiring diagram on the Vee2. I couldn't find a B/W and W/G connector on the wiring diagram. I just knew that B/W is always ground on other models and the Vee2 changed from O/G on other models to W/G for ignition on hot. It would be off the signals fuse on other models. It would be nice to know if pulling the signals fuse would kill the power to the connector on your bike. I thought the power connector on the diagram was used for heated grips and there was only one as opposed to separate power connector and heated grip connector on the 650. The power connector on the Vee2 diagram shows white/blue rather than white/green for hot.

Also, the diagram shows a separate ignition coil for each of the four spark plugs rather than two dual coils on the 650. An electrical diagram is different from a physical diagram though.
 

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To check, I used the 1K ohm setting on my $6 VOM. Pulling the 15 amp signal fuse does indeed kill the power to the connector. Other people have said that the connector is fused by the 3 amp power fuse but I'm guessing that is for the cigarette lighter outlet. No ribbing on the connector or adapter wires.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks again Pat. Just out of curiosity, why do both wires show continuity to ground ?
The reason that both wires show low resistance to ground is that the +12V side is also going through multiple relays coils and other devices that will have low resistance at low current, like when you are using the ohm meter, but will have much higher resistance when current is increased when you turn the bike on and actually apply +12V. The the wires in a coil are just that: wires. When there is no current present they will read almost a dead short. But when you apply voltage and higher current to the coil the counter electro-magnetic force will create the resistance that will keep the thing from burning out.

Cheers,
 

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There is Now a PLUG AND PLAY option for Speedo-DRD

Great news! 12-O'Clock labs now makes a $23 adapter for their S1 model which fits most Suzuki's prior to traction control. Edit: I meant the S1 which fit Suzuki before TC was added. The S1 connects to the adapter and the adapter plugs into the back of the speedo gauge itself. There's only one plug back there so you can't miss it. So you buy the S1 model and the adapter and that's it! Fortunately for me I removed my S1 from my 650 that I just traded.

Here's the link:

http://shop.12oclocklabs.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=31&product_id=164


I am posting this on two threads on the subject that I have been following. Hope that's ok.
 

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"Great news! 12-O'Clock labs now makes a $23 adapter for their S1 model which fits most Suzuki's prior to traction control"

Well...the '14+ Vstrom1000 does have traction control. So you're saying this 12-O'Clock Labs adapter works on the '14?
Sounds like a slight conflict here...
 
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