It isn't monstrous as only about roughly 125W or so are available to run accessories. I have a full set of heated gear, jacket (90W), gloves, pant liner and socks. I have to disconnect an HID head light for this and I'm still pushing it. I'm adding an external alternator to the Wee since Suzuki apparently has no plans to upgrade the output. It is tight but it can be done.400w seems monstrous after the 238w on my KLR.
That makes sense. I only run heated grips on my KLR and put in an LED taillight to free up some power. Since I'll only have heated grips on the Wee and don't use heated gear, it sounds like I'll be fine, no?It isn't monstrous as only about roughly 125W or so are available to run accessories. I have a full set of heated gear, jacket (90W), gloves, pant liner and socks. I have to disconnect an HID head light for this and I'm still pushing it. I'm adding an external alternator to the Wee since Suzuki apparently has no plans to upgrade the output. It is tight but it can be done.
Had I paid attention to this when shopping for bikes I would not have bought the Wee.
I am essentially doing the same thing realshelby has done with his DL1000. Mounting the alternator in the same general place but because the cylinder on the DL650 is offset to the left it will stick out a little more. The shaft that will drive the pulley is solid and has M12 thread on one end and will screw into the crank and hold the rotor in place. An Aluminium piece screwed onto the magneto cover using the same bolt holes that keep the stator attached will hold a seal and bearing. Again, it is virtually the same thing as realshelby's except that things stick out a little further. I do not plan on removing the stock alternator from the bike at this point. I can post some pictures when I get a chance. I am not done yet. It is a time consuming process.Arne,
Would you mind posting how you add another alternator? I am really curious. I have a full set of Gerbings gear that can pull 165 watts. Actually head to Fort Eustis, VA tomorrow morning and temps at home are expected to be around 19 degrees. It is about 285 miles and 5 hours so it will be interesting. I bought a spare battery (lithium) in case I drain the battery from pulling too much with the heated gear. The trip is for work and can't risk a dead battery and no way to get going. I wonder why Suzuki would keep an alternator with such low power output on the V-Strom.
My gear:I own a 2004 DL650 V-Strom and just went for a test ride with Gerbings Micro-Wire Jacket, Pants, Gloves, and Socks.
I have an Eastern Beaver kit that allows me to turn off one of the headlights.
I have an LED tail light installed.
With the dual controller set to a point where both channels are lit and "on" about 75% of the time, I had zero electrical issues.
I don't think the Wee will give you trouble if you use a temp controller that allows you to cycle the heat, and you shut one headlight off.
Changing turn signals to LED's doesn't gain you much considering they are more off than on. Changing brake lights can have a larger impact. Attempts have been made by some companies to rewind the stators for the v-strom with little success.some good tips here
Calculating Excess Electrical Capacity - Learning Center - Powerlet Products
definitely changing to LED lights will make a difference. i usually get my jeep alternators rewound for about 30% increase but never though about a bike. I may look into it though.
I read the article as showing that most heated garments (gloves, vests, pants liners, etc.) use between 35-77W - individually, not as a full set. Not everyone likes to ride a motorcycle in sub-freezing temps with heated footsie pajamas under their riding gearA full set of heated garments uses a lot more than the 35-77W mentioned in that link.
FWIW, it's important to wear elec gear as close to the skin as practical for best heat.Obviously we are all different, but I'm getting kinda old and chill more than some. I wear my jacket over a poly shirt & never turn it up much past 50% or it will get really hot!!!. Mine is the "old style" Gerbings & they say the microwire is even better-I don't need better. Maybe the microwires draw less too? Worth checking if draw is an issue as would be LED aux lts.My gear:
2 x 10W solstice lights = 20 W (more in reality)
couple 3W extra rear lights.
Admore lighting kit.
All lighting on the bike is LED except the license plate light.
Using HID headlights, you don't gain much wattage by using HID's.
Planning on adding additional LED lights (maybe the krista's). I do have a
headlight cutout switch.
heated gear : ~178W + lights ~ >200W
I know that not all pieces of gear are on 100% of the time but I get cold REAL fast so it is generally on at a high duty cycle. Pulling one headlight is not going to do it, and certainly not sitting at a traffic light.