[Rolex]

That will happen if the bike falls over.

That sponge block in the corner covers the crank case breather tube, the bock is made to make oil fumes into oil droplets so they get bigger and drop out of the air.

If the bike falls over the oil comes up the breather tube, past the block and into the air box.

Clean the oil out and keep a eye on it, if you keep getting oil without the bike falling over you have motor problems.

Blow by the piston rings is a way of getting oil into the air box this would also cause the motor to perform poorly and could be the reason you are having trouble.

 

[Randal]

That will happen if the bike falls over.

That sponge block in the corner covers the crank case breather tube, the bock is made to make oil fumes into oil droplets so they get bigger and drop out of the air.

If the bike falls over the oil comes up the breather tube, past the block and into the air box.

Clean the oil out and keep a eye on it, if you keep getting oil without the bike falling over you have motor problems.

Blow by the piston rings is a way of getting oil into the air box this would also cause the motor to perform poorly and could be the reason you are having trouble.

I don't know how long the oil has been in the air box but since I have had the bike is has not been down. I have cleaned the oil out of the air box. Will be replacing the air filter as this one has a bunch of bugs in the pleats. Sure hope my problem is not blow by.....

 

[Randal]

Please provide feedback and some pix on what was found. Curious minds....

Finally made it back out in the garage and removed the fuel pump. Inside of the tank looked spotless. Very last of the gas drained (very small amount) was dark orange. Cleaned the fuel mesh filter. The filter had just a bit of crud, cleaned and put back together. The manual says to replace the O-ring when reassembling the pump into the tank. My bike has 8,1000 miles on it but is a 2012, is it wise to go ahead and replace the O-ring or can I reuse the original?

 

[Rolex]

I have reused the O ring over and over again.

Having a new one on standby could be a smart move if you need the bike to run or can't wait for a replacement.

 

[Randal]

I have reused the O ring over and over again.

Having a new one on standby could be a smart move if you need the bike to run or can't wait for a replacement.

Thanks for the reply. Will put a bit of grease on it an reassemble.

 

[Randal]

Thanks for the reply. Will put a bit of grease on it an reassemble.

A bit of an update.....
I removed the bottom of the air box and re-seated the throttle bodies. On the front throttle body the clamp was only hand tight. Put in a new air filter and re-assembled the air box.
Thought I had located the problem and put the tank back on and put in 1 1/2 gallons of fresh gas.
Ended up replacing the battery and thought the bike would fire....... it only cranked a great deal and never did act like it was even thinking about firing. Needless to say I am a bit discouraged.
I checked 8 fuses and they were all good. I know I need to check for spark and gas flow but am bummed out for the evening. I did look to make sure I was hooking up everything that had been removed during the re-assembly.

 

[Rolex]

Do you hear the fuel pump prime each time the ignition is turned on ?

A quick squirt of starting fluid in the air box can tell you if it is fuel or spark

 

[Randal]

Do you hear the fuel pump prime each time the ignition is turned on ?

A quick squirt of starting fluid in the air box can tell you if it is fuel or spark

Just went out and turned on the ignition....no pump prime sound but a single click from somewhere around the battery area.

 

[Rolex]

Check your pump is plugged in and the fuse is good & tight, the pump should prime every time the key is turned on.

If all above is good, test for power to the pump each time the key is used.

It could be a bad pump, testing is the best way of not throwing money at the problem.

 

[Randal]

Just went out and turned on the ignition....no pump prime sound but a single click from somewhere around the battery area.

Check your pump is plugged in and the fuse is good & tight, the pump should prime every time the key is turned on.

If all above is good, test for power to the pump each time the key is used.

It could be a bad pump, testing is the best way of not throwing money at the problem.

Thanks for the reply. Will check out what you suggested. I am now wondering if, when re-assembling the pump, I got the wiring mixed up..... I had pictures and was being careful but I am human....
I did put the bike into dealer mode, I received a C-00 in return.

 

[Randal]

Thanks for the reply. Will check out what you suggested. I am now wondering if, when re-assembling the pump, I got the wiring mixed up..... I had pictures and was being careful but I am human....
I did put the bike into dealer mode, I received a C-00 in return.

Thursday update- Checked for power to the pump and that part was good. Removed the pump and sure enough I had two wires turned around. Switched the wires and re-assembled.... I now have the fuel gauge working. I thought I heard it priming (I wear hearing aids) but would not start. Opened the gas cap and put my ear close to the opening, turned on the key and no priming sound.

 

[Randal]

Thursday update- Checked for power to the pump and that part was good. Removed the pump and sure enough I had two wires turned around. Switched the wires and re-assembled.... I now have the fuel gauge working. I thought I heard it priming (I wear hearing aids) but would not start. Opened the gas cap and put my ear close to the opening, turned on the key and no priming sound.

Friday update- Made a monumental discovery......my wife did not plug the pump relay back together after testing. Ok, it was me and I feel pretty stupid. So, the two wires crossed on the pump fixed the pump and the relay plugged together cured the priming issue. Bike started right up! Now to put it all back together and see if I have actually taken care of the running issue. Will report back with my findings.