[Randal]

The 3 wires to the connector are basically: fuel pump live / positive, fuel pump ground / negative / earth and the fuel gauge.
Unfortunatelythe closest wiring diagram that I have reference to, is that of a K5 Vee which is not very clear when I zoom in on this diagram. FWIW, have a look at the wiring diagram in reply #18 of dl 1000 issue., which should give you an idea of the wire colors. Looking at the linked diagram, roughly at middle top, you should find the fuel pump connector (3 wires). Note there is also another connector labeled fuel pump relay (4 wires), but that isn't the connector that you are looking for.
Having separated the fuel tank connector, as Rolex has pointed out, you now need to provide both the pos and neg feeds to the now loose connector of the fuel tank. This will allow the fuel pump to run. You need to control the duration of the connection or the pump will be active while connected in this manner.

Thanks for the information, you saved me some grief with the ground wire. How much gas does it take for this test? My tank was almost empty and I have added one gallon of gas. The blinking low gas indicator still blinks.

 

[Gert]

A minimum of two gallons is recommended. For reference, view the first link in my reply #16 above.

 

[Randal]

A minimum of two gallons is recommended. For reference, view the first link in my reply #16 above.

Thanks, my mistake, I thought the 2 gallons was just for the quick fuel pump test. Will see if I can make it out to the garage today.

 

[Gert]

Please post the resultsof your test. Enquiring minds..

 

[Randal]

Please post the resultsof your test. Enquiring minds..

Just completed the fuel flow check.......1150ml. I thought for sure it would be a lot less. Seems like the filter is in good shape. Looks like I need to keep looking...

 

[Randal]

Please post the resultsof your test. Enquiring minds..

Have been reading and looking at pictures of the TB boot. My rear TB boot is not touching the TB, close but there is maybe a 1/8 gap. Hard to see in the pictures.

 

[Gert]

If closing the TB boot gap doesn't cure the idling and low rpm "bucking" then perhaps something else to check on. Have a look for any damage to the vacuum hoses. Examples of previous posts on vacuum leaks that may be work reading, Throttle not returning to idle, Might be time to look at those vacuum hoses and Vacuum leaks - How to troubleshoot & where to look.

 

[BackPacker]

What is your (warm) idle set to? Adjusting it to the upper end of the Suzuki specified range may help.

Also, what is the last time the TPS was checked, adjusted (and possibly replaced), and the Throttle Body Sync was done?

I have seen more reports of these engines dying after a high-speed run, and most often these three checks solved the issue.

 

[Randal]

If closing the TB boot gap doesn't cure the idling and low rpm "bucking" then perhaps something else to check on. Have a look for any damage to the vacuum hoses. Examples of previous posts on vacuum leaks that may be work reading, Throttle not returning to idle, Might be time to look at those vacuum hoses and Vacuum leaks - How to troubleshoot & where to look.

Thanks, will check it out. The clamp on the TB boot is tight. Will make sure the tiny gap is taken care of.

What is your (warm) idle set to? Adjusting it to the upper end of the Suzuki specified range may help.

Also, what is the last time the TPS was checked, adjusted (and possibly replaced), and the Throttle Body Sync was done?

I have seen more reports of these engines dying after a high-speed run, and most often these three checks solved the issue.

The (warm) idle is at 1100 (the best that I can remember). I can increase to 1300.
Have no idea on the last time the TPS was checked..... Same with the Throttle Body Sync.
I now have more items to look at, appreciate the reply. Hopefully I am closer to finding the issue.

 

[Randal]

Thanks, will check it out. The clamp on the TB boot is tight. Will make sure the tiny gap is taken care of.

The (warm) idle is at 1100 (the best that I can remember). I can increase to 1300.
Have no idea on the last time the TPS was checked..... Same with the Throttle Body Sync.
I now have more items to look at, appreciate the reply. Hopefully I am closer to finding the issue.

Tried to do the TPS test in dealer mode but would not produce any results. Double checked I had the correct wires and tried tow different size paper clips. Never did display anything in place of the time/clock display. What am I missing?

 

[Gert]

Did you have the correct connector? Was the motor running when you tested the TPS? Dealer mode on, motor off, ignition on, dealer mode code - C00 should be displayed. Start motor to check the TPS setting. The motor must be warm to do a proper dealer mode test. The cold start will increase the rpm above idle rpm thus will give incorrect feedback displayed. Make sure that you have the security torx bit to adjust the TPS. Remember the TPS is the bottom sensor.
If you should require more info on the dealer mode for your ride, have a look at FAQ: Dealer Mode & FI Error Codes, Checking TPS question and Adjusting screw on TPS

 

[Randal]

Did you have the correct connector? Was the motor running when you tested the TPS? Dealer mode on, motor off, ignition on, dealer mode code - C00 should be displayed. Start motor to check the TPS setting. The motor must be warm to do a proper dealer mode test. The cold start will increase the rpm above idle rpm thus will give incorrect feedback displayed. Make sure that you have the security torx bit to adjust the TPS. Remember the TPS is the bottom sensor.
If you should require more info on the dealer mode for your ride, have a look at FAQ: Dealer Mode & FI Error Codes, Checking TPS question and Adjusting screw on TPS

I feel I had the correct connector, picture attached. Motor was not running. Nothing displayed where the -C00 should have been except the time. Even though I did not start the bike, seems like something would display (even though it would be incorrect). I will try again with the motor warm. Thanks for your reply and information

 

[Rolex]

The one with UP stamped on it is the tip over sensor, your plug didn't come out of that did it ?

That needs to sit upright to work correctly, it will cut the ignition out if it moves and could cause your problem.

The dealer plug only has a cover on it, there is no wires going into the plug through the cap it is just a cap.

Mine has 2 little black nubs on the cap.

If you are in that plug and your year is the same as my 2014 you have pinned the wrong ports.

The best I can tell and using your photo as a guide.

remove the pin on the left.

push it into the other row of terminals & directly above the other pin on the right in the photo

so they will be in the two right hand corners, top and bottom

Yes you should get the result up on the dash without starting the motor.

 

[Randal]

The one with UP stamped on it is the tip over sensor, your plug didn't come out of that did it ?

That needs to sit upright to work correctly, it will cut the ignition out if it moves and could cause your problem.

The dealer plug only has a cover on it, there is no wires going into the plug through the cap it is just a cap.

Mine has 2 little black nubs on the cap.

If you are in that plug and your year is the same as my 2014 you have pinned the wrong ports.

The best I can tell and using your photo as a guide.

remove the pin on the left.

push it into the other row of terminals & directly above the other pin on the right in the photo

so they will be in the two right hand corners, top and bottom

Yes you should get the result up on the dash without starting the motor.

Thanks, will check out tomorrow.

 

[Gert]

@Randal, I could be mistaken, but it looks like the two pins that you have jumpered in your pix (#32) are not the correct two pins to use. Check to make sure that the White/Red & Black/White wires are the ones you are jumpering to enable dealer mode.
FYI since the 1st gen Wee and K4+ Vee share the same dealer mode pin setting, reply #2 of Dealer mode socket has a good sketch of the dealer mode connector with the jumper in the correctly connected to activate the dealer mode, which you can use for a reference.

 

[Randal]

@Randal, I could be mistaken, but it looks like the two pins that you have jumpered in your pix (#32) are not the correct two pins to use. Check to make sure that the White/Red & Black/White wires are the ones you are jumpering to enable dealer mode FYI since the 1st gen Wee and K4+ Vee share the same dealer mode pin setting, Dealer mode socket has a sketch of the connector with the jumper in place, that you can use for a reference.

Thanks for the reply, will check out tomorrow.

 

[Randal]

Thanks for the reply, will check out tomorrow.

You were exactly correct.....I jumpered the wrong two wires. With the correct wires jumpered I received -C00 (on cold motor and bike not running). Will warm the bike up and double check the idle rpm and do the dealer user mode check again. Correct me if that is not the next steps....

 

[Randal]

You were exactly correct.....I jumpered the wrong two wires. With the correct wires jumpered I received -C00 (on cold motor and bike not running). Will warm the bike up and double check the idle rpm and do the dealer user mode check again. Correct me if that is not the next steps....

I need to close the tiny gap on the TB boot. Then proceed with the above. I hate being so human...

 

[Randal]

I need to close the tiny gap on the TB boot. Then proceed with the above. I hate being so human...

Just went out to the garage. With the tank lifted, I was able to see the front TB boot. There is more of a gap on the front than the rear. Front is more like 3/16 and the rear 1/8. Will remove the tank and close the gaps on the TB's. That really seems to be the problem......will see.

 

[Randal]

Took the top off if the air box and discovered oil in the bottom.