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2012 DL1000 "Bucking" & Stalling Issues....

8019 Views 52 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  Randal
Purchased a 2012 DL1000 with 8,100 miles on it the week of Thanksgiving while in Oklahoma deer hunting. I have replaced the tires with Metzler's Tourance, as the original's were still on the bike.
The bike ran fine for several miles (maybe 20) for my test ride and riding back where I was staying in Oklahoma. Loaded the bike in a truck for the trip back to Texas (my son-in-law's house). On my ride home to my house (about 90 miles) I had a 6 mile ride to the highway. The bike was running fine until I pulled the clutch in for a stop sign before entering the highway. The bike immediately died, popped the clutch and it restarted. On the highway I had to keep the revs up or it would buck and not run smooth. Would cruise on the highway at 70 but the revs had to be 4500 to 5000. Anytime the clutch was pulled in (I was in stop and go traffic) the bike would want to die, had to feather the clutch a bit. While accelerating the bike would run better but if revs dropped it would start the bucking routine. Not a pleasant ride home but am anxious to discover and fix the issue. Really enjoyed the bike up until the "issues".
The bike had a fresh tank of gas before riding to where I was staying in Oklahoma. Also, the previous owner was 79 and only rode the bike about 5 miles a day to the golf course nearby.
I am in the process of removing the tank to see what I can discover. Have read about the high pressure filter giving problems. Greatly appreciate input on getting back on the road....
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I agree, do the fuel flow test, it's not hard to do and will give you a instant answer for free.

On the 650 the bike will stall at lights if the clutch switch has been bypassed but I don't know about the 1000.
The pump will also require a ground to work

You can test the bike side of the plug, you should get power for a second every time the ignition is turned on, them compare the wires with the pump side
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The one with UP stamped on it is the tip over sensor, your plug didn't come out of that did it ?

That needs to sit upright to work correctly, it will cut the ignition out if it moves and could cause your problem.

The dealer plug only has a cover on it, there is no wires going into the plug through the cap it is just a cap.

Mine has 2 little black nubs on the cap.

If you are in that plug and your year is the same as my 2014 you have pinned the wrong ports.

The best I can tell and using your photo as a guide.

remove the pin on the left.

push it into the other row of terminals & directly above the other pin on the right in the photo

so they will be in the two right hand corners, top and bottom

Yes you should get the result up on the dash without starting the motor.
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That will happen if the bike falls over.

That sponge block in the corner covers the crank case breather tube, the bock is made to make oil fumes into oil droplets so they get bigger and drop out of the air.

If the bike falls over the oil comes up the breather tube, past the block and into the air box.

Clean the oil out and keep a eye on it, if you keep getting oil without the bike falling over you have motor problems.

Blow by the piston rings is a way of getting oil into the air box this would also cause the motor to perform poorly and could be the reason you are having trouble.
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I have reused the O ring over and over again.

Having a new one on standby could be a smart move if you need the bike to run or can't wait for a replacement.
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Do you hear the fuel pump prime each time the ignition is turned on ?

A quick squirt of starting fluid in the air box can tell you if it is fuel or spark
Check your pump is plugged in and the fuse is good & tight, the pump should prime every time the key is turned on.

If all above is good, test for power to the pump each time the key is used.

It could be a bad pump, testing is the best way of not throwing money at the problem.
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