[Randal]

Purchased a 2012 DL1000 with 8,100 miles on it the week of Thanksgiving while in Oklahoma deer hunting. I have replaced the tires with Metzler's Tourance, as the original's were still on the bike.
The bike ran fine for several miles (maybe 20) for my test ride and riding back where I was staying in Oklahoma. Loaded the bike in a truck for the trip back to Texas (my son-in-law's house). On my ride home to my house (about 90 miles) I had a 6 mile ride to the highway. The bike was running fine until I pulled the clutch in for a stop sign before entering the highway. The bike immediately died, popped the clutch and it restarted. On the highway I had to keep the revs up or it would buck and not run smooth. Would cruise on the highway at 70 but the revs had to be 4500 to 5000. Anytime the clutch was pulled in (I was in stop and go traffic) the bike would want to die, had to feather the clutch a bit. While accelerating the bike would run better but if revs dropped it would start the bucking routine. Not a pleasant ride home but am anxious to discover and fix the issue. Really enjoyed the bike up until the "issues".
The bike had a fresh tank of gas before riding to where I was staying in Oklahoma. Also, the previous owner was 79 and only rode the bike about 5 miles a day to the golf course nearby.
I am in the process of removing the tank to see what I can discover. Have read about the high pressure filter giving problems. Greatly appreciate input on getting back on the road....

 

[TinMan88]

The 2012 DL1000 was the subject of a factory recall for "running issues". Suzuki provided a new ECU to correct the issue you describe. Your local Suzuki dealer should be able to identify if your serial number has been updated, or there is a serial number on the ECU you have indicating if is the updated box. Search for background here or contact a dealer about this first step. It is a known issue of this model and there has been lots and lots of effort expended to solve the problem. I have the update in my DL1000. It solved the problem. It was free.

From all I have learned, it is shitty programming of the ECU for all the 2005 on bikes. It tampers with spark, fueling ,fuel cutoff under decel and other parameters.

 

[realshelby]

TinMan88 is correct about the 2012 ECU upgrade. It is not a recall, but a TSB. There should be a thread on this site with a pic of the TSB and from that you can get the number off of it to give to a dealer. I don't know if that would still be valid. It was a reflash of the ECU, not replaced, as I recall. It also added Iridium spark plugs.
That said, that has nothing to do with your problem. I suspect there is a fueling issue. Sitting around that much isn't good. Once you started riding it and stirred tank contents....I suspect there is some debris in the pump filter or injectors. If having to hold throttle that far open to keep it running....it sounds like fuel pressure/volume is low. There is a test for fuel flow that isn't hard to do. Search here for that test too. I think that is the place to start.

 

[Rolex]

I agree, do the fuel flow test, it's not hard to do and will give you a instant answer for free.

On the 650 the bike will stall at lights if the clutch switch has been bypassed but I don't know about the 1000.

 

[TinMan88]

So I will add some thoughts. If you have clogging issues they may present after sitting, 2. poor fuel for fill up. (doubtful) Clogging means fuel starvation, right? Does the engine run clean when opening up? Higher speed overtake? Two simple tests first. Look in fuel tank for rust. (brown) alchohol (white). 2.Siphon some gas off the bottom of the tank into a clear container with a flexible plastic tube. Move it around so it hits bottom. Any shit in the jar? Okay. moving along. Does the popping occur at steady throttle and slight decel, around 3500 RPM? How about throttle off, then cracked open? That describes the action that amplifies the KaPop in the ECU issue. It is a reckless fuel cut on the injectors. Riding up my graded dirt driveway was absolutely unliveable.
I purchased a 2012 new and currently still own my DL1000. It popped and died in an intersection on my test ride of that bike. I clutched it and restarted on the roll. I probably would not have bought it had I not had a very good test ride on a different bike provided on a Suzuki factory demo day a month previous. It ran flawlessly. (Duh, "factory")
Realshelby has some good suggestions and your further diagnosis is suggested. In the early days of this site there were a myriad of posts and fixes offered in lively debate.

 

[Randal]

The 2012 DL1000 was the subject of a factory recall for "running issues". Suzuki provided a new ECU to correct the issue you describe. Your local Suzuki dealer should be able to identify if your serial number has been updated, or there is a serial number on the ECU you have indicating if is the updated box. Search for background here or contact a dealer about this first step. It is a known issue of this model and there has been lots and lots of effort expended to solve the problem. I have the update in my DL1000. It solved the problem. It was free.

From all I have learned, it is shitty programming of the ECU for all the 2005 on bikes. It tampers with spark, fueling ,fuel cutoff under decel and other parameters.

Thanks for your reply. Will look into what you have suggested. Funny that it ran so well, then when to crap... maybe that is just the nature of it. Will keep seeking...

TinMan88 is correct about the 2012 ECU upgrade. It is not a recall, but a TSB. There should be a thread on this site with a pic of the TSB and from that you can get the number off of it to give to a dealer. I don't know if that would still be valid. It was a reflash of the ECU, not replaced, as I recall. It also added Iridium spark plugs.
That said, that has nothing to do with your problem. I suspect there is a fueling issue. Sitting around that much isn't good. Once you started riding it and stirred tank contents....I suspect there is some debris in the pump filter or injectors. If having to hold throttle that far open to keep it running....it sounds like fuel pressure/volume is low. There is a test for fuel flow that isn't hard to do. Search here for that test too. I think that is the place to start.

Just checked with Suzuki online and my vin did not show any outstanding recalls.

TinMan88 is correct about the 2012 ECU upgrade. It is not a recall, but a TSB. There should be a thread on this site with a pic of the TSB and from that you can get the number off of it to give to a dealer. I don't know if that would still be valid. It was a reflash of the ECU, not replaced, as I recall. It also added Iridium spark plugs.
That said, that has nothing to do with your problem. I suspect there is a fueling issue. Sitting around that much isn't good. Once you started riding it and stirred tank contents....I suspect there is some debris in the pump filter or injectors. If having to hold throttle that far open to keep it running....it sounds like fuel pressure/volume is low. There is a test for fuel flow that isn't hard to do. Search here for that test too. I think that is the place to start.

Thanks for the information!

I agree, do the fuel flow test, it's not hard to do and will give you a instant answer for free.

On the 650 the bike will stall at lights if the clutch switch has been bypassed but I don't know about the 1000.

Thanks for the reply. I like the "free" part...

So I will add some thoughts. If you have clogging issues they may present after sitting, 2. poor fuel for fill up. (doubtful) Clogging means fuel starvation, right? Does the engine run clean when opening up? Higher speed overtake? Two simple tests first. Look in fuel tank for rust. (brown) alchohol (white). 2.Siphon some gas off the bottom of the tank into a clear container with a flexible plastic tube. Move it around so it hits bottom. Any shit in the jar? Okay. moving along. Does the popping occur at steady throttle and slight decel, around 3500 RPM? How about throttle off, then cracked open? That describes the action that amplifies the KaPop in the ECU issue. It is a reckless fuel cut on the injectors. Riding up my graded dirt driveway was absolutely unliveable.
I purchased a 2012 new and currently still own my DL1000. It popped and died in an intersection on my test ride of that bike. I clutched it and restarted on the roll. I probably would not have bought it had I not had a very good test ride on a different bike provided on a Suzuki factory demo day a month previous. It ran flawlessly. (Duh, "factory")
Realshelby has some good suggestions and your further diagnosis is suggested. In the early days of this site there were a myriad of posts and fixes offered in lively debate.

Thanks for the reply. I just went out to the garage and looked in the gas tank with a flash light. What little I could see looked very clean. The tank is almost out of gas and I am in the process of taking the tank off. Will look at the tank from the bottom and see what I can discover. The bike did run better when accelerating. I don't remember any poping or backfiring, just the bucking (I know that is not a technical term). Will be a few days probably before I can get back to working on the problem.

 

[TinMan88]

Bucking, as in off-on-off. The pop was a backfire overpressure under the throttle bodies, sometimes dislodging them from the rubber boots. The ECU was a replacement part provided by Suzuki and should have been provided to any bike displaying the known condition. Good luck with that. 2012 was the year (fear of) legal action forced S to acknowledge they had a problem. When the dealer took the bike in agreement with the owner there was a new ECU provided and new irridium plugs installed. Been there . Done that. My engine response never pops or bucks.

2012 DL1000 Vstrom Backfie through intake

first time poster. its been years since since i have been out riding. so i purchase a new 2012 dl1000 vstrom. i picked up the bike from the dealer...

www.advrider.com

Service bulletin 35 - DL1000 ECU Replacement

Service bulletin 35 - DL1000 ECU Replacement

www.vstrom.info

 

[realshelby]

TinMan88 is correct about the replacement of the ECU. I am attaching a link to the Bulletin. One might take a copy of that to a Dealer and see if they can work with it ( this is only for 2012 DL 1000).
I don't think this is the problem currently. But once it is running properly it might be something to consider.
If it has done a lot of backfiring....it could be the boots are so far off the manifolds that it will only run at part to full throttle. I would inspect those closely. They can look to be ok....but once you see how they should look you realize they were off. Just takes a small opening to screw up how they run.

https://bruceatk.com/20130306_055_dl1000_low_rpm_hesitation_and_surging_service_bulletin.pdf

 

[TinMan88]

TinMan88 is correct about the replacement of the ECU. I am attaching a link to the Bulletin. One might take a copy of that to a Dealer and see if they can work with it ( this is only for 2012 DL 1000).
I don't think this is the problem currently. But once it is running properly it might be something to consider.
If it has done a lot of backfiring....it could be the boots are so far off the manifolds that it will only run at part to full throttle. I would inspect those closely. They can look to be ok....but once you see how they should look you realize they were off. Just takes a small opening to screw up how they run.

https://bruceatk.com/20130306_055_dl1000_low_rpm_hesitation_and_surging_service_bulletin.pdf

There is a always challenge to diagnose a problem described, and I certainly recognize there are several similar issues to what the OP posted. My pathway is only offered as a reflection of how much ink has been spilled about the "running issues" on the DL1000. I will be clear that there will be resistance from Suzuki to apply TSB 35 to owners presenting with "running issues" . All the usual culprits need to be diagnosed.

 

[Randal]

TinMan88 is correct about the replacement of the ECU. I am attaching a link to the Bulletin. One might take a copy of that to a Dealer and see if they can work with it ( this is only for 2012 DL 1000).
I don't think this is the problem currently. But once it is running properly it might be something to consider.
If it has done a lot of backfiring....it could be the boots are so far off the manifolds that it will only run at part to full throttle. I would inspect those closely. They can look to be ok....but once you see how they should look you realize they were off. Just takes a small opening to screw up how they run.

https://bruceatk.com/20130306_055_dl1000_low_rpm_hesitation_and_surging_service_bulletin.pdf

Thanks for the bulletin, I printed it. When I take the tank off, I will really check the tb boots. Appreciate your input.

 

[TinMan88]

Thanks for the bulletin, I printed it. When I take the tank off, I will really check the tb boots. Appreciate your input.

Search " Vstrom running issues" on this site. Lots of historical background.

 

[Randal]

Search " Vstrom running issues" on this site. Lots of historical background.

Thanks, will do....

 

[Gert]

Please provide feedback and some pix on what was found. Curious minds....

 

[JBNY]

Purchased a 2012 DL1000 with 8,100 miles on it the week of Thanksgiving while in Oklahoma deer hunting. I have replaced the tires with Metzler's Tourance, as the original's were still on the bike.
The bike ran fine for several miles (maybe 20) for my test ride and riding back where I was staying in Oklahoma. Loaded the bike in a truck for the trip back to Texas (my son-in-law's house). On my ride home to my house (about 90 miles) I had a 6 mile ride to the highway. The bike was running fine until I pulled the clutch in for a stop sign before entering the highway. The bike immediately died, popped the clutch and it restarted. On the highway I had to keep the revs up or it would buck and not run smooth. Would cruise on the highway at 70 but the revs had to be 4500 to 5000. Anytime the clutch was pulled in (I was in stop and go traffic) the bike would want to die, had to feather the clutch a bit. While accelerating the bike would run better but if revs dropped it would start the bucking routine. Not a pleasant ride home but am anxious to discover and fix the issue. Really enjoyed the bike up until the "issues".
The bike had a fresh tank of gas before riding to where I was staying in Oklahoma. Also, the previous owner was 79 and only rode the bike about 5 miles a day to the golf course nearby.
I am in the process of removing the tank to see what I can discover. Have read about the high pressure filter giving problems. Greatly appreciate input on getting back on the road....

Take the mouse nest out of the airbox!

 

[Randal]

Please provide feedback and some pix on what was found. Curious minds....

Please provide feedback and some pix on what was found. Curious minds....

Please provide feedback and some pix on what was found. Curious minds....

Tried to do the fuel pump test today. On page 4-54 of my Suzuki service manual there is a picture of the ECM and instructions for a yellow/red wire to go to the positive side of the battery. The pics are of my ECM. The ECM in the service manual and mine look different. Appreciate some feedback....than
ks.

 

[Gert]

There are two thoughts on how to do the fuel pump flow test.
!) Quick fuel pump flow test. To me this test proves that the pump is working ok
2) The manual says it should be 1200 ml in 60 seconds. The test method is for both the 1st gen Wee and Vee.

Some may not agree, but I found that testing the fuel flow for 60 seconds the better option. The second option however entails removing some tupperware to allow the lifting of the fuel tank, to access the fuel pump electrical connector plus the fuel hose coupler / connection under the tank. I found it easier to connect power directly to the fuel pump connector for my fuel low test. Perhaps worth reading Fuel flow check wrt the volume pumped.
Also check that the fuel pump regulator hasn't clipped loose. There is a tip on using binding wire to tie the regulator into place. Another option is to cable tie the regulator into place.

If you perhaps need a guide on how to remove the fuel tank, have a look at Fuel Tank Removal How to, 650 & 1000 There may be a slight variation in the steps on your model Vee.

According to the parts list the stock ECU lis listed as CONTROL UNIT, FI 32920-06G71. My reference is Suzuki Motorcycle 2012 OEM Parts Diagram for ELECTRICAL | Partzilla.com
Perhaps someone who has had the L2 Vee recall done, can confirm on the part number of the replacement ECU?

 

[realshelby]

Never had an ecm out of any of my bikes. Surprised to see the "Mitsubishi" emblem cast into your ecm! While they make a lot of stuff, this is the first time I have seen an electrical part cross branded by them.

 

[Randal]

There are two thoughts on how to do the fuel pump flow test.
!) Quick fuel pump flow test. To me this test proves that the pump is working ok
2) The manual says it should be 1200 ml in 60 seconds. The test method is for both the 1st gen Wee and Vee.

Some may not agree, but I found that testing the fuel flow for 60 seconds the better option. The second option however entails removing some tupperware to allow the lifting of the fuel tank, to access the fuel pump electrical connector plus the fuel hose coupler / connection under the tank. I found it easier to connect power directly to the fuel pump connector for my fuel low test. Perhaps worth reading Fuel flow check wrt the volume pumped.
Also check that the fuel pump regulator hasn't clipped loose. There is a tip on using binding wire to tie the regulator into place. Another option is to cable tie the regulator into place.

If you perhaps need a guide on how to remove the fuel tank, have a look at Fuel Tank Removal How to, 650 & 1000 There may be a slight variation in the steps on your model Vee.

According to the parts list the stock ECU lis listed as CONTROL UNIT, FI 32920-06G71. My reference is Suzuki Motorcycle 2012 OEM Parts Diagram for ELECTRICAL | Partzilla.com
Perhaps someone who has had the L2 Vee recall done, can confirm on the part number of the replacement ECU?

Thanks for the information. I want to connect power directly to the fuel pump connector as you mentioned above. From what I have read, the yellow/red wire is the one to clip on to and touch to the positive side of the battery. I just want to make sure so I don't mess anything up. Picture is of the connector.

 

[Rolex]

The pump will also require a ground to work

You can test the bike side of the plug, you should get power for a second every time the ignition is turned on, them compare the wires with the pump side

 

[Gert]

The 3 wires to the connector are basically: fuel pump live / positive, fuel pump ground / negative / earth and the fuel gauge.
Unfortunatelythe closest wiring diagram that I have reference to, is that of a K5 Vee which is not very clear when I zoom in on this diagram. FWIW, have a look at the wiring diagram in reply #18 of dl 1000 issue., which should give you an idea of the wire colors. Looking at the linked diagram, roughly at middle top, you should find the fuel pump connector (3 wires). Note there is also another connector labeled fuel pump relay (4 wires), but that isn't the connector that you are looking for.
Having separated the fuel tank connector, as Rolex has pointed out, you now need to provide both the pos and neg feeds to the now loose connector of the fuel tank. This will allow the fuel pump to run. You need to control the duration of the connection or the pump will be active while connected in this manner.