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Discussion Starter #1
Bike only has 2500 miles on it and the adjuster for throttle slack is all the way out at the throttle. This does not seem logical. Anyone have a procedure for adjusting at the engine end for the 2011 model? The manual is of little help. Thanks in advance.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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There is adjustability at the front throttle body on the left side of the bike.


 

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Discussion Starter #3
There is adjustability at the front throttle body on the left side of the bike.


Is this accessible without taking the fuel tank and cowling off the bike? I cannot see any other way to obtain access to these adjustments? Thanks.
 

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Nope, gott'a take off the plastic, the tank, and the air box. A #2 phillips screwdriver with a 10" long shank is good for the clamp screws on the air box to the throttle bodies.

First though, loosen both throttle cables, tighten the one that opens the throttle (top cable) so you have very little free play, then tighten the closing cable so it is just tight enough and so the twist grip still snaps back shut by spring tension. If the cable length still isn't right, the adjustment at the throttle body must be made. Warranty job?
 

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I've been successful by only removing the left side plastic.
 

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Nope, gott'a take off the plastic, the tank, and the air box. A #2 phillips screwdriver with a 10" long shank is good for the clamp screws on the air box to the throttle bodies.

First though, loosen both throttle cables, tighten the one that opens the throttle (top cable) so you have very little free play, then tighten the closing cable so it is just tight enough and so the twist grip still snaps back shut by spring tension. If the cable length still isn't right, the adjustment at the throttle body must be made. Warranty job?
I agree on the warranty job. I paid $525.00 in dealer prep. This throttle cable assembly was not adjusted properly from the beginning. I am going to contact the dealership about this and will let you know what the outcome is. Thanks for the feedback.
 

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I payed a similar dealer prep fee. My throttle cable, front brake lever, chain slack, tire pressure, were all not what I would consider adjusted correctly. I chose to address these my self, I would both learn more about the bike as well as rotate bars, reposition rear brake lever and such to fit me exactly how I wanted. I am a little nervous about the exact abilitys of the techs. Sad really. The KLR I bought from the same dealer lost the front axle pinch bolts on the ride home. I called back and they had allready closed for the weekend. Sucks to have a new bike you can only look at.
 

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Even Texas allows complaints against vehicle repair outfits to be filed with their Attorney General:
https://www.oag.state.tx.us/consumer/car_repair.shtml
"Under this law, it is illegal to: State that work has been done or parts were replaced when that is not true."

North Carolina's law is even weaker! Nothing in it says that the repair you paid for has to fix the problem and in fact actually excludes fixing the problem you took the vehicle in for! "...you must pay for authorized repairs even if they do not solve the problem."
Auto Repair

Aside from dealer prep that didn't prepare a damned thing, every time you take the vehicle in for repair, be sure the work order lists the problem to be fixed, not just the job you're going to be charged for (if there is a problem, not just routine maintenance).
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks all for the replies. Dealer said no warranty fix - but he will work with me. I think I know what that means. He said that as long as the throttle was adjusted at delivery, it does not make any difference that there was no room for future adjustments. This mentality is contrary to what I do as a profession, so it is completely foreign to me. But - not worth arguing over.
 

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I've been successful by only removing the left side plastic.
Ken-How did you get the left side plastic of only? Everything I have read is that you have to take the entire cowling off the bike. Is there a procedure or a manual out there that shows how to do this? Thanks - Howard
 

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Ken-How did you get the left side plastic of only? Everything I have read is that you have to take the entire cowling off the bike. Is there a procedure or a manual out there that shows how to do this? Thanks - Howard
Nope, right and left main panels can be removed without removing anything else except the seat and the little black plastic panel(s) that are just below the front portion of the seat (they are kinda' shaped like a boomerang and only one allen bolt)...
 

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