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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi all,

New member here. Had a 2011 strom 650 for just about a year now, and the charging circuit is kaput. I've done similar repairs on other bikes before, and determined that the stator coil is defective. Took it out and it's all burned; will be sending it off for a re-coil.

Tests were the ones in my workshop manual: battery voltage at load, no-load test across alternator cables at 5000RPM, grounding test on alternator circuit, diode test on regulator/rectifier. Regulator/rectifier is fine, no connections to ground off alternator wires, and only a couple of volts coming off the alternator circuit at 5000RPM. The battery is next to new and in good condition.

When I tried to seal the left side of the crank case up, I noticed that I couldn't make it fit. When the rod connecting the smaller gear to the crank case cover is inserted, the cover won't sit flush, there's about a half centimetre gap. The two dowels line up and are fitted correctly. Is there a knack to getting it to fit? I've sealed it up without, until the stator is repaired, but will need to fix it at some point.

Also, I noticed that a small steel ball had fallen from the crank case. I can't for the life of me guess where it's come from. Pics of the connecting rod and ball attached.

Any help appreciated, I'd really prefer to avoid taking it to a shop if I can help it.

Cheers,

-Ash
 

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The metal piece looks like the shaft that the small gear at the front mounts on. When I did my 2011, I fit that shaft and gear into position first, ensuring that it was fully inserted into the crankcase and the small gear was fully seated. I then put the cover on the crankcase. It did take a couple of tries to get the gear and shaft mount correctly before I put the cover on. The little ball bearing baffles me, it almost looks like one of the small bearings in the clutch actuating mechanism.

Hope this helps
Mike
 

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Just trying to remember the things I did when replacing the stator on my bike. One of the things I did was insert the shaft into the appropriate opening without the gear to see how far in it should go. As I mentioned, I found it took a bit of fiddling to get the shaft and gear fully in place. The gear tended to cock to one side or the other if the shaft was not lined up correctly and the gear could be off centre from the hole.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for your reply, Mike. That sounds like it's probably it for the shaft; I'll lay the bike down and see if it aligns better with gravity not working against me!

I didn't think about the clutch mechanism - I did have to disassemble part of the clutch assembly to get the crank case cover off. I'll chase an exploded diagram and see if it comes from there.
 

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Hi all,

New member here. Had a 2011 strom 650 for just about a year now, and the charging circuit is kaput. I've done similar repairs on other bikes before, and determined that the stator coil is defective. Took it out and it's all burned; will be sending it off for a re-coil.

Tests were the ones in my workshop manual: battery voltage at load, no-load test across alternator cables at 5000RPM, grounding test on alternator circuit, diode test on regulator/rectifier. Regulator/rectifier is fine, no connections to ground off alternator wires, and only a couple of volts coming off the alternator circuit at 5000RPM. The battery is next to new and in good condition.

When I tried to seal the left side of the crank case up, I noticed that I couldn't make it fit. When the rod connecting the smaller gear to the crank case cover is inserted, the cover won't sit flush, there's about a half centimetre gap. The two dowels line up and are fitted correctly. Is there a knack to getting it to fit? I've sealed it up without, until the stator is repaired, but will need to fix it at some point.

Also, I noticed that a small steel ball had fallen from the crank case. I can't for the life of me guess where it's come from. Pics of the connecting rod and ball attached.

Any help appreciated, I'd really prefer to avoid taking it to a shop if I can help it.

Cheers,

-Ash
A bit of advice, if the stator was badly burnt-you are far better off buying from here, I took a guess at your model -

And I say you are better off for a reason,, very few places can machine wind that stator, I don't care how good you think you are-I worked in a motorshop, it is almost impossible to hand wind without getting cross-overs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
A bit of advice, if the stator was badly burnt-you are far better off buying from here, I took a guess at your model -

And I say you are better off for a reason,, very few places can machine wind that stator, I don't care how good you think you are-I worked in a motorshop, it is almost impossible to hand wind without getting cross-overs.
Just about everybody mechanic I spoke to recommended sending the stator to Small Coil Rewinds in Geelong. If it comes back less than perfect, I'll know where to look for a new one, thanks for the tip!

Should have it back in a week or so, hopefully it all goes back together nicely.
 

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Just about everybody mechanic I spoke to recommended sending the stator to Small Coil Rewinds in Geelong. If it comes back less than perfect, I'll know where to look for a new one, thanks for the tip!

Should have it back in a week or so, hopefully it all goes back together nicely.
I will explain why it is less than perfect or less than equal to electrosport.
Depending how they go about rewinding. The old winding needs to be removed. A common way for electric motors is to chop the crown off and burn it out. Burning out causes permanent losses in the magnet laminations. Similarly, having a pole get fried, damages that pole laminations. That then causes a magnetic imbalance in the stator , shifting load to the other phases. Since this is Delta wound ( I think it is) , the phase with the magnetic loss will become a under producing phase , but could also become a load, should we get shorted turns.
When I worked in a motorshop, it was common practice to warn a customer about a special small horsepower motor, to look at buying a new motor. MANY TIMES, these were special motors off gearboxes or milling machines etc. That were impossible to find a replacement motor. In some cases we would find a new 480 VAC motor out if the USA and rewind it, to 600 VAC . using our bake oven after the crown was cut off. Most times we were able to pull the winding complete with varnish out of the stator without burning out. Very special circumstances, but consider replacing a CNC milling machine just because a motor kept burning out due to age.
 
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