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Discussion Starter #1
DL650- 25,700 miles, should valves be checked?
Manual says to inspect at 24,000 miles, but is real world experience?
Needed or not?
Bike has not been flogged, and I've babied it since I got it with 16,200 miles.
Thanks in advance for any feedback.
 

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Yes.

I think the valve check interval is 14,500 miles (24,000 km), unless it changed for newer DL650s. I'm thinking Vermont has long winters like Wisconsin, I'd give them a check over winter. Then you'll know where you are at and whether you need to consider any further work.

I've checked mine a few times, always within spec but just barely on the last check.


YMMV
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Ah! I was looking at Kilometers instead of Miles. Old eyes and small type, yeah, that's what it was ;-)

Well, I've not heard any detonation, and it runs fine. I probably should get it looked at, but lately I've had some bad luck with the local dealer and a young inexperienced mechanic. I've sourced a new guy and have had one session with him which went fine, but sometimes "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" could be a safer approach, rather than getting something "dicked up".
 

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If it's any value, I got my Wee with 23K miles and had it checked at 80+k miles and one valve was a bit tight. the mechanic changed a shim and said come back in 30K miles.
I'd start to worry if the performance started to degrade.
 

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Well I am normally not correcting or arguing with other inmates experience BUT not all 650 never have tight valves so if it has never been checked at 25.7k its well overdue and you should check it. You can't judge valve clearance by performance. If the performance drops, means a valve is that tight that it does not close properly causing low compression the damage to the valve and seat has already been done, most likely.

If the clearances are well within specification leave them alone. If they are towards to tight end of the specification widen them more towards the looser end of the range. After that I would agree with the previous poster and not look at them for quite a while because experience shows that they don't change much (if at all) over a long time or a lot of miles.
 

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Always err on the side of concern, if you aren't sure it's worth having a look so you have a base line.
I went on blind faith and rumors of how little the Strom needs even when checked at proper intervals.
 

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Checking is easier that adjusting. Adjusting easier than fixing bad valves/head. I am in the same boat. Need all fluids and valve check. I have been faithful on oil, filter, tires and chain lube. I guess time to get the tupperware off. Or sell it. Brake fluid, coolant and clearance past due. battery and forks. Are these things expected to be economical? I may go back to my Piaggio.

kfh000
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for your help everyone! I'll be getting it checked this next week.
 

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Excellent. It's way overdue.

You can stretch the maintenance intervals later when you've established some history with the bike and understand the pattern, but you gotta do the first few.

What most have found is that they close up a wee bit during the first 50,000 miles or so then don't seem to move much after that.

My Vee came to me with 45,000 miles and records of one dealer valve check at some point in the distant past. Seven out of the eight were tight. I changed one shim at the next check, and since then the clearances haven't moved. It's at nearly 120,000 now and I'm not touching it again until 150,000.

I've seen much the same in the Wees I've worked on and many other bikes for that matter.

Let us know how it goes!

If you're having a shop do it, make SURE you get the records of clearances, and if they change any shims, the records of what shims were replaced with what.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Excellent. It's way overdue.

You can stretch the maintenance intervals later when you've established some history with the bike and understand the pattern, but you gotta do the first few.

What most have found is that they close up a wee bit during the first 50,000 miles or so then don't seem to move much after that.

My Vee came to me with 45,000 miles and records of one dealer valve check at some point in the distant past. Seven out of the eight were tight. I changed one shim at the next check, and since then the clearances haven't moved. It's at nearly 120,000 now and I'm not touching it again until 150,000.

I've seen much the same in the Wees I've worked on and many other bikes for that matter.

Let us know how it goes!

If you're having a shop do it, make SURE you get the records of clearances, and if they change any shims, the records of what shims were replaced with what.
I'll be getting it checked out tonight, and as long as we are in there, will be doing a Coolant flush and refill, new Plugs, plus Oil and Filter. I'll report back what we find!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
So, after a bit of delay getting the bike into my Mechanic garage, here's what was done and discovered:
Flushed and Changed Coolant, Oil & Filter - Amsoil Synthetic 10W-40, K&N Filter, Two NGK Iridum Plugs, found out after the fact this bike takes 4 Plugs! The two pulled looked fine though. Will probably not worry about the other two.
Valve Check:
Rear Cylinder: Intake Left .006, Right .005, Exhaust .009 Both
Front Cylinder: Intake both .006, Exhaust both .009
So, all within spec, no shims needed. Mileage was at 25,945 at this time.
WIN!
 

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Excellent! You've measured, and now you know.

One thing to note: the K&N oil filter has a decent quality filter element, but they VERY VERY commonly leak at the point where the sheet metal fake "nut" is spot-welded to the filter can. Overall it's a good idea, but poor execution; the spot welds are just not strong enough to actually use the "nut".

If yours is fine at the moment, don't worry about it, but next time there are better options for less money, like Wix/Napa and HiFloFiltro. You'll just need a "cap" style oil filter wrench.
 

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…. One thing to note: the K&N oil filter has a decent quality filter element, but they VERY VERY commonly leak at the point where the sheet metal fake "nut" is spot-welded to the filter can. Overall it's a good idea, but poor execution; the spot welds are just not strong enough to actually use the "nut". .
Well you must have had bad luck. I have used them exclusively and had no problem. The torque necessary to put them on is not very high.

Also this is the first I remember reading that they are failing. Maybe I just missed other such reports?
 

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Well you must have had bad luck. I have used them exclusively and had no problem. The torque necessary to put them on is not very high.

Also this is the first I remember reading that they are failing. Maybe I just missed other such reports?

You're kidding, right? I've seen a few myself.

Google "K&N Oil Filter Leak" and marvel... they even had a recall, and true to form for most manufacturer recalls, the problems continue.

Not worth monkeying with this when there are so many other excellent choices. And it's definitely not worth paying the premium for a little sheet metal fake nut you can't really use.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I checked with my mechanic, and he's never seen it, but he did say he always just uses a Filter Wrench that grabs the whole filter.
 
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