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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
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above from 2003 DL650 service manual section 5-32

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I am attempting to perform throttle synchronization on 2008 DL650.
My service manual printed in 2003 says uses the throttle stop screw to set it to 1300 rpm.
However, I cannot find this screw after looking for 2 days, which cause my rebuilt to be stuck for 1 weeks plus.
then I came across this video youtube :

2005 dl650 long term review a bike perfect for the apocalypse

which says in 2007, suzuki remove the idle adjustment screw for DL650.

Anyone have any idea whether i still need to set to 1300 rpm in my 2008 model if there
is really no " throttle stop screw" for 2008 DL 650 ?

Thanks in advance
 

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2009 V-Strom 650, 2009 Ninja 500R, 2019 KTM 450 EXC-F Six Days
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The 2007-2011 DL650's do not have idle adjustment screws, and instead use an ISC Valve to electronically control the idle. This makes synchronizing the throttle bodies a bit more difficult (as the throttle bodies must be removed to properly sync them), but allows the bike to high-idle for a period of time on cold start to heat up the cat(s) sooner.

I had issues with my DL650 coughing off-idle, dying when warming up, and stalling coming up to stop signs. This was remedied by syncing/adjusting the primaries, ISC valve, and TPS. To sync the primary throttle plates you can follow this guide. I personally didn't do the shimming and cardboard tube routine. Instead, I backed out the throttle stop screw and visually sync'd the plates using my phone's flashlight to the best of my ability. ISC Valve adjustment is done using a manometer and the set screw on the top of the rear throttle body, don't worry about ISC lockout unless you tampered with the front setscrew. TPS adjustment is well documented and applies to all models.
 

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Idle is controlled by the ECM, no adjustment screw.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
thank you all very much for the useful info, I am changing my fuel pump strain filter at the moment, I will ran the bike after the tank is up again and then see if I will proceed with the TBS.
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I only had the chance to ride the DL for 1 time before I started this episode of maintainence/rebuilt. I did not remember the bike stalling at idle or stop light but I seen once that the idle seems to drop to about slightly below 1k (say about 800 to 900 rpm) at 1 junction of stop light, It happen immediately after I stopped, for a split second, after which the rpm went up to above 1k again.

Another incident is while cruising home after collecting the bike on the HW at about 70 kmh, I closed the clutch to change gear and the engine stall to zero rpm for a split second (while the clutch is closed), however, it came back to ife after I release the clutch.

Anyway, the fuel strain filter is very dirty and there is even a small torn hole, I will change to a new 1 and ran the bike again to see if throttling improves.
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Check that your bike will not start unless you pull in the clutch lever.

If the clutch switch is not working as it should or it is bypassed the bike will stall at lights and when closing the throttle.

The ECU thinks there is no load on the motor so it drops the available fuel.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Check that your bike will not start unless you pull in the clutch lever.

If the clutch switch is not working as it should or it is bypassed the bike will stall at lights and when closing the throttle.

The ECU thinks there is no load on the motor so it drops the available fuel.
I had always start the bike without pulling in the clutch lever in neutral gear :oops::oops: with the side stand down, so does it mean clutch switch is bypassed.? pls advised how to check the clutch switch, many thanks in advance.
 

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Yes your switch is not working as it should

That could be it is bypassed, that means joining the 2 wires that go to the clutch switch together, most likely at the switch but it could be anywhere.

Or your clutch levers are not letting the switch open the contacts, this is more common with aftermarket levers.

Did you buy the bike used ? the PO may not know you can't bypass the switch on 650's built after 2007.

If you do need to replace the switch I recommend a JIS screwdriver not a phillips head, that screw can be tight and a phillips head driver will cam out and destroy the head, heat from a soldering iron can help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yes your switch is not working as it should

That could be it is bypassed, that means joining the 2 wires that go to the clutch switch together, most likely at the switch but it could be anywhere.

Or your clutch levers are not letting the switch open the contacts, this is more common with aftermarket levers.

Did you buy the bike used ? the PO may not know you can't bypass the switch on 650's built after 2007.

If you do need to replace the switch I recommend a JIS screwdriver not a phillips head, that screw can be tight and a phillips head driver will cam out and destroy the head, heat from a soldering iron can help.
It s a 2009 with 140 000 km, I bought it last week. Will be using a multimeter to check the continuity of the 2 leads of the clutch lever in both open and closed position. However, are you sure that the clutch lever position will affect the ECU signal ?

The circuit diagram shows the 2 leads from the clutch lever
- 1 goes to ground and 1 goes to the starter relay , so I am kind of puzzled that the ECU will read the clutch switch continuity while the engine is running :).
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unless there is another wire from the s. relay that goes to the ecu .
 

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100% sure

Up until 2008 it was not a issue.

It's common as a way to save fuel and cut emissions.

I was in my local shop waiting for them to swap out the ECU on my V2 when I overheard a conversation where the Kawasaki they were working on had the same issue, I recommended they swap out the clutch switch, they were amazed that it fixed the problem.
 

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The Y/G wire circled goes to the ECM.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
"If you do need to replace the switch I recommend a JIS screwdriver not a phillips head, that screw can be tight and a phillips head driver will cam out and destroy the head, heat from a soldering iron can help."

Thanks for your advise, I proceed with care with the screws, if not for your reminder I would likely have worn the head.

Before repair , the contact is open in both clutch in and clutch out position - i wonder why I can still start the engine in neutral.

After some WD 40 into the switch and socket the contact is closed in clutch in, contact opens when clutch out.

after I repair the clutch switch, I examine the starter relay, I cannot see sign of any bypass work done.

Update on 18 Sept 21: I think i found the bypass to the clutch switch , its a green wire connecting part of the wire harness near/ under the coolant tank to the negative terminal of the battery.
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update on 19 aug 21-- the green wire needs to be connected to the negative terminal of batt. the bypass was done by shorting the wires to the switch, I have separated the shorted wires and tape them with duct tape. wil remember to clutch in when I start the bike from now.
 

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