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2008 DL650 Stator

5074 Views 31 Replies 15 Participants Last post by  Mulewright
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It appears by the blackening that I'm in need of a new stator. Is an OEM the most reliable replacement? I haven't tested the regulator/rectifier yet but I have a flywheel with integrated magnets so that's not the cause. Thoughts???
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Bottom line is that you need a new stator.
Perhaps Stator replacement: OEM v. Electrosport can help provide some of the answers that you are looking for.
Personally I would opt for an OEM stator.
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I thought Suzuki updated the stator a few years ago? I believe it retrofits. If so, I'd go OEM.
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I do recall reading of the stator part numbers changing.to 32101-17G13. That 13 is vital because it's the part number that supersedes everything that came before the recall
See #11 of No Stator recall for '08 to '11 Wee's? , also note the last sentance in #11
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Go with O.E. stator & RoadsterCycle's series regulator upgrade.
I have had 1k & 2 650's and installed 5 stators overall. The stator has 'issues' , rotor magnets on the 1k, all have 'shunt' type regulators that is the cause of the majority of failures in mine.
no sense in doing a stator without the regulator upgrade.
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Stator on my '09 burned up the same way....replaced with newest part number OEM and did not change regulator/rectifier. Working as it should for the last 1.5 years. Unfortunately, you may have to wait a while for a new OEM as supply chain issues are everywhere.
The OEM replacement will be an upgrade. You want that one. Gen 1 Wee was not covered by the recall, but the part number is the new one anyway. DO NOT buy the Electrosport; they have a long history of disappointment.
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Wolverine68, how many miles on your 08??
43,000km
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I do recall reading of the stator part numbers changing.to 32101-17G13. That 13 is vital because it's the part number that supersedes everything that came before the recall
See #11 of No Stator recall for '08 to '11 Wee's? , also note the last sentance in #11
The 17G13 is THE stator to buy for our bikes. I combined mine with an SH847 RR to make things bombproof.

BTW: my stator was WAY worse than yours!
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The 17G13 is THE stator to buy for our bikes. I combined mine with an SH847 RR to make things bombproof.

BTW: my stator was WAY worse than yours! View attachment 305418
Ouch!! 3 weeks and over 500 Canadian$ for the OEM!!!
Ouch!! 3 weeks and $500+ Canadian$ for the OEM!!!
Pay the freight, as they say, it is worth it.
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Pay the freight, as they say, it is worth it.
Unless you like surprise stopovers. I'll repeat: DO NOT be tempted to buy the Electrosport.
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There a bunch of posts from several years back where folks were preemptively installing different regulator/rectifiers to avoid this problem (Shindengen brand at the time). How did that end up working out? Would it be a good idea to make this change to prolong stator life and/or avoid stator burnout on the road?
Well at that price I would chance it with a used e-bay stator and buy 2 and install a V meter for good measure:

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There a bunch of posts from several years back where folks were preemptively installing different regulator/rectifiers to avoid this problem (Shindengen brand at the time). How did that end up working out? Would it be a good idea to make this change to prolong stator life and/or avoid stator burnout on the road?
The SH847 has been completely problem free for me for 2+ years.
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I would look at using a series type regulator/rectifier. I replaced the stock (shunt) one on my '17 Wee with a Compufire clone I picked up on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YD8HXC9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1). You can google shunt vs series regulator rectifier for more details, but a series regulator rectifier only loads the stator with what is actually needed for the bike, unlike a shunt type, which always puts a full load on the stator. I noticed that the engine case covering the stator runs quite a bit cooler that it did with the old r/r. I've been running it for over a year and almost 16,000 miles without an issue. Even with my heated gloves and jacket liner, I've never seen the voltage drop below 13.6v at idle. Always 14.2 running.
I would look at using a series type regulator/rectifier. I replaced the stock (shunt) one on my '17 Wee with a Compufire clone I picked up on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YD8HXC9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1).
Did you have to make some kind of a bracket or mounting plate for this one?
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Don't use the stock rectifier, or pay big bucks for one with someone's name in front. Read this and become an instant expert on the matter. Almost all are easily interchangeable, and the only real concern is getting a MOSFET unit.
This is a few years old so somewhat dated but you'll get the idea. When I had a rectifier/regulator go out, I bought two ZX10 units and did my VFR800 and VTR1000 at the same time. Easy peasy.

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