Compression check. Guessing you don't have any
2007 DL1000 Oil Dumped, now Won't Start
Hey everyone. I've been looking around on the forums for a while now and you guys have helped me fix a few problems with this bike. A month ago I fixed loose magnets in the magneto and had great results from that (voltage back into optimal range) and the bike has been running great. However, as embarrassing as this is to admit, while doing an oil change exhausted I made a horrible mistake. I over tightened the oil drain plug and stripped it out. Now this wouldn't have been so bad had I stopped there. Not thinking much of it, I cleaned it and put some Jb Weld over the threads and re tapped the hole and went about my business. A few days later while riding home on my commute, disaster struck.
I was on the highway and suddenly the oil light came on. I was maybe 4-5 miles from my house, so I figured take it slow and check the sight glass when I got home. Then the oil light flashed on and off a few times over the next mile, but came on regularly. Then the bike RPM dropped, temp maxed out and it stalled going 65 on the highway. I pulled the clutch in instantly and coasted for a second panicking before being dumb and popping the clutch to restart the bike. It comes back to life, and the oil light flashes at me and I fish tail down the road before it stalls again and I coast to a stop on the side of the road.
The back tire was slicked with oil, the drain plug was gone along with the JB Weld and the bike was dead. A friend came with a trailer and carted the bike back to my garage where it sat for two weeks like that, no oil. I got a new upsized 15mm plug and tapped hole to fit it, filled it with oil and tried to start the bike. Here's where we have multiple problems:
The fuel pump primes both when key comes on and if I cycle the cut off switch. Side stand switch is engaged. Clutch handle wires are clean and tightly connected. No engine codes in dealer mode. I took the side cover off to check the starter gears for damage, they look clean and tight. Gas is full and fresh. Battery is new and has tested good.
I'm really lost as to what to look for. Only thing I haven't checked is if the spark plugs are fouled. Could I have really badly messed something up inside the engine? I'm really embarrassed, this has been a really rough couple of months and I've made some decisions maintenance wise while stressed out that I never would have made in the past and they keep blowing up in my face. So, tell it to me straight. How screwed am I here? Did I ruin my bike? Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated. I am tight on money right now, but if I absolutely have no choice I'll take it to a shop and get it looked at by someone smarter than me.
I was on the highway and suddenly the oil light came on. I was maybe 4-5 miles from my house, so I figured take it slow and check the sight glass when I got home. Then the oil light flashed on and off a few times over the next mile, but came on regularly. Then the bike RPM dropped, temp maxed out and it stalled going 65 on the highway. I pulled the clutch in instantly and coasted for a second panicking before being dumb and popping the clutch to restart the bike. It comes back to life, and the oil light flashes at me and I fish tail down the road before it stalls again and I coast to a stop on the side of the road.
The back tire was slicked with oil, the drain plug was gone along with the JB Weld and the bike was dead. A friend came with a trailer and carted the bike back to my garage where it sat for two weeks like that, no oil. I got a new upsized 15mm plug and tapped hole to fit it, filled it with oil and tried to start the bike. Here's where we have multiple problems:
- The bike cranked but would not start even jumping or post charge reading 12V.
- After several attempts at starting, throttle off, mid and full open, it backfired incredibly loudly once, and hasn't since.
- A high pitched squealing started happening while cranking, and sometimes it would stop cranking entirely. No clicking, no whining, just "Push button, click, silence."
- During one attempt to start a small amount of smoke came up from below/behind the battery.
The fuel pump primes both when key comes on and if I cycle the cut off switch. Side stand switch is engaged. Clutch handle wires are clean and tightly connected. No engine codes in dealer mode. I took the side cover off to check the starter gears for damage, they look clean and tight. Gas is full and fresh. Battery is new and has tested good.
I'm really lost as to what to look for. Only thing I haven't checked is if the spark plugs are fouled. Could I have really badly messed something up inside the engine? I'm really embarrassed, this has been a really rough couple of months and I've made some decisions maintenance wise while stressed out that I never would have made in the past and they keep blowing up in my face. So, tell it to me straight. How screwed am I here? Did I ruin my bike? Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated. I am tight on money right now, but if I absolutely have no choice I'll take it to a shop and get it looked at by someone smarter than me.
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Yes. Very. Probably.Could I have really badly messed something up inside the engine? How screwed am I here? Did I ruin my bike?
The engine is toast. You ran it at 65 MPH with no oil and the major clue is that it over heated. The oil does something like 50% of cooling the engine (especially the pistons which get really hot) and of course is critical for other internal parts like crank and rod bearings, cam chain, cams, etc. I'm guessing at this point the cylinders and pistons are warped and the engine is seized and the smoke from behind the battery was probably the battery cables frying when the starter motor was trying to turn a seized engine.
At this point I wouldn't take it to a mechanic who will probably charge a lot of money to tell you it is toast as you can probably confirm that on your own. I would inspect the source of the smoke around the battery (i.e. cable insulation) and then charge the battery. Pull the spark plugs and try to turn the crank manually with a wrench. If it turns freely then try and crank it with the starter motor. With the plugs out the engine should spin freely but if it struggles or makes bad noises at all the motor is seized or has major problems.
Sorry for your woes.
Likely the pistons seized some, which scores the cylinders. May have also damaged rod and /or crank bearings. The symptoms you described after you got it home and attempted starting it sound like the motor cannot be cranked through due to mechanical damage, resulting in the backfire, the motor no longer turning over, the starter whining and the battery area smoke from the resistance. It will be expensive to repair. You might look at a motor from a junkyard. Quicker to get you back on the road, probably less expensive and likely less problems. Sorry for your situation.
Be very happy you are not hurt. The bike is likely done. @dmfdmf post 3 is spot on.
The first place to suffer from low oil would be the cams, they squeal, pull the plugs and check the cams are turning and you have compression
Good point. OP, as bad as things are be sure to count your blessings.Be very happy you are not hurt.
After mulling this for a bit in light of your comment, even if the engine cranks okay with the plugs removed and can miraculously get running again (without major work) I don't think I'd ever trust it. The heat and wear damage to the bearings and other components could mean a thrown a rod or crank bearing seizing down the road which at 65 MPH could be fatal or cause severe injuries. I also forgot that the gear box is also dependent on engine oil and who knows how much damage was done there.
If it were my bike I'd still do the test out of curiosity but would junk it, sell it or do an engine swap at this point.
Seriously, its an older bike. In your heart you know you wanted a new one anyway. The Universe is telling you its time for an upgrade. List that machine "for parts" and move on.
Some lessons in life are harder than others.
OR, look around for a good used engine, but remember this is a an older model so one might be high mileage. I would NOT try fixing the current engine. Running out of oil basically cooks everything, every single moving part inside. To fix it right would cost more than the bike is worth.
There are used engines out there:
Used DL100 engine in Florida
Some lessons in life are harder than others.
OR, look around for a good used engine, but remember this is a an older model so one might be high mileage. I would NOT try fixing the current engine. Running out of oil basically cooks everything, every single moving part inside. To fix it right would cost more than the bike is worth.
There are used engines out there:
Used DL100 engine in Florida
Remove the plug in the rotor cover. Try to turn the engine by hand. Compare this with a friends bike. At the very least it will help you get convinced that you've got major issues. Way beyond what you've been looking at so far.
If you had pulled in the clutch, shut down and pulled over immediately after the light came on then towed the bike you MAY have been ok.
just about everything you did was the exact opposite of what should have been done. your cam journals are likely gone, cylinders, bearings... gone.
I would just start looking a replacement engine or bike. you're very lucky the rear didn't lock up on you at highway speed, could have went from a crappy day to.....
just about everything you did was the exact opposite of what should have been done. your cam journals are likely gone, cylinders, bearings... gone.
I would just start looking a replacement engine or bike. you're very lucky the rear didn't lock up on you at highway speed, could have went from a crappy day to.....
Thank you everyone for your replies. I apologize for the late reply, this is a busy time of year. I know in my heart you guys are right and the bike is toast and I agree with dmfdmf, I probably wouldn't ever trust the bike again anyways. I just bought it not long ago and honestly this is pretty crushing news. I am incredibly grateful that I was able to safely come to a stop. I'm still relatively new to motorcycles (just under 2 years) and this is my first major incident, so my reaction was what I would've done in a car.
Any advice as to where to look for motor replacement and cost analysis for that would be greatly appreciated. I need the bike for commuting (hour long commute). Thanks again.
Any advice as to where to look for motor replacement and cost analysis for that would be greatly appreciated. I need the bike for commuting (hour long commute). Thanks again.
Don't do that in a car either - its even more expensiveso my reaction was what I would've done in a car.
Part it out and buy another complete bike. Unless you have some pretty decent mechanical skills, not sure you want to do an engine replacement on your own.Any advice as to where to look for motor replacement and cost analysis for that would be greatly appreciated. I need the bike for commuting (hour long commute). Thanks again.
I've done engine rebuilds for cars myself. Was an aircraft mechanic in the Marines. Not saying I am confident in my ability to repeat that process on a bike that I know much less about. I'll have to think about what to do. I don't have money for a replacement bike. This was the replacement bike and I f***ed that away. I wouldn't even know where to start parting out the bike honestly and I imagine by the time i figure it out itll be fall again.Don't do that in a car either - its even more expensive
Part it out and buy another complete bike. Unless you have some pretty decent mechanical skills, not sure you want to do an engine replacement on your own.
Well, as long as you have some tools and know how - plenty of engines on ebay for around $800-$1200 shipped (some with short warranties). And then figure another couple hundred for fluids and whatever fasteners and things break taking it apart. I personally would not bother fixing a DL1000 for that money - you could get another one for 3-4K or so and dispose of the old one. And I'm confident that I could swap the engine myself in a day.I've done engine rebuilds for cars myself. Was an aircraft mechanic in the Marines. Not saying I am confident in my ability to repeat that process on a bike that I know much less about. I'll have to think about what to do. I don't have money for a replacement bike. This was the replacement bike and I f***ed that away. I wouldn't even know where to start parting out the bike honestly and I imagine by the time i figure it out itll be fall again.
Got it. Thank you. I agree, for that price it's probably not worth the time or money. Guess I won't be riding for the foreseeable future. I'm currently back in school after getting out of the Marines, I had to save up for a while to get this bike, can't afford to get another so soon.Well, as long as you have some tools and know how - plenty of engines on ebay for around $800-$1200 shipped (some with short warranties). And then figure another couple hundred for whatever fasteners and things break taking it apart. I personally would not bother fixing a DL1000 for that money - you could get another one for 3-4K or so and dispose of the old one. And I'm confident that I could swap the engine myself in a day.
Thanks for the advice again. I appreciate you.
Engine swap seems like a bad idea despite your mechanic experience. Most people who do engine swaps do it because they are in love with their bike and can't let it go and love to wrench and have been doing it for years and can afford it in time/money.
You could sell the bike as-is to recoup some of your loss but finding a buyer in your area could be difficult and you won't get much for it with a dead engine.
Parting it out maybe your best option. It is not difficult but is a bit time consuming with advertising the part-out, negotiating the sales and pulling and shipping parts. Pulling parts is much easier than installing them too. The upside is that you'd probably get top dollar for many of those parts that are still serviceable. Forks, wheels, throttlebodies, stators, handle bar switches and a myriad of small parts and plastic pieces (e.g. blinkers) that just aren't available for a Gen1 of that era or very expensive if Suzuki even still sells it. Front forks are really worth a lot because most forks are bent in the crash that totals the parts bike. I'd bet that by parting out you can get more than what you paid for it a few years ago and you can put that money away and add to it till you have enough to buy a new ride.
I have a 2007 Wee with 95K miles and (perhaps foolishly) plan to keep it running till I can't ride anymore. It burns oil and needs a top-end refresh and I already dropped $200 on some used low-mile heads and planning on doing the swap next Fall or Winter. I was poking around ebay and ran across very low-mile throttle bodies which my bike doesn't actually need at the moment but these are no longer available from Suzuki and getting really hard to find in good shape so I bought them for $250.
So create an ebay account, post what parts are available and make it a little side project.
You could sell the bike as-is to recoup some of your loss but finding a buyer in your area could be difficult and you won't get much for it with a dead engine.
Parting it out maybe your best option. It is not difficult but is a bit time consuming with advertising the part-out, negotiating the sales and pulling and shipping parts. Pulling parts is much easier than installing them too. The upside is that you'd probably get top dollar for many of those parts that are still serviceable. Forks, wheels, throttlebodies, stators, handle bar switches and a myriad of small parts and plastic pieces (e.g. blinkers) that just aren't available for a Gen1 of that era or very expensive if Suzuki even still sells it. Front forks are really worth a lot because most forks are bent in the crash that totals the parts bike. I'd bet that by parting out you can get more than what you paid for it a few years ago and you can put that money away and add to it till you have enough to buy a new ride.
I have a 2007 Wee with 95K miles and (perhaps foolishly) plan to keep it running till I can't ride anymore. It burns oil and needs a top-end refresh and I already dropped $200 on some used low-mile heads and planning on doing the swap next Fall or Winter. I was poking around ebay and ran across very low-mile throttle bodies which my bike doesn't actually need at the moment but these are no longer available from Suzuki and getting really hard to find in good shape so I bought them for $250.
So create an ebay account, post what parts are available and make it a little side project.
Not sure if you said where you were located, but I might buy some plastics off you if you've decided to sell (my current Strom is an 06 1000). I would take the plugs out and spin the motor for grins, examine the valve train etc. I'd say it's better than 95% it's toast, but I'd still have a glimmer of hope. Running it with the oil light on is probably doom, but still.
ebay......where you can buy or sell anything. There are engines there for sale, I posted a link to one good one early on.
As for parting it out...look at ebay and see what things are selling for. Wheels command a pretty good price. Brake parts, the frame, the forks and of course the body parts. The gas tank if its clean, starter, clutch basket, etc. The list goes on and on. How do you think salvage yards do so well?
As for parting it out...look at ebay and see what things are selling for. Wheels command a pretty good price. Brake parts, the frame, the forks and of course the body parts. The gas tank if its clean, starter, clutch basket, etc. The list goes on and on. How do you think salvage yards do so well?
Front wheels and fork parts sell especially well. Don't underprice them. Apparently lots of people run into things.
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