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2006 weestrom clutch lever asesmbly

1870 Views 11 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  Brockie
Are there any aftermarket clutch lever assemblies that work with the wee? Sheared my OEM one off today taking a spill on a dirt road. Managed to ******* rig it and get it home. OEM is backordered on revzilla and I'd like to get every day I can out of the bike before I winterize it for NH winters.

The ones I'm finding on amazon have a circular area where the electronics plug in, no idea what that's called, and my wee has a rectangular shaped plug on it.

Any suggestions are welcome, I've been looking on amazon and ebay just for low shipping times -- and will backorder a OEM one as well.
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I don't have a wee at home anymore so I'm working of my memory, can you post photos & links ?

Most aftermarket stuff or from other brands of bikes will work.

A few things I can think of to look for,

The clutch lever must have enough bend in it to get over the switch gear

The cable hole in the lever must be big enough for the Wee's cable end

A mounting hole for your mirror,

You will need to bypass the clutch switch (that is OK on a 2006) that means the bike can start without pulling the clutch lever in.

Your levers should not be tight on your bars they should be able to spin, this will stop the damage you have, teflon plumbers tape around the bars before installation is the solution.
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I was thinking about using this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B19NT9ZC , and just duct taping the clutch switch (thanks for teaching me what it's called) to the handlebars. I ripped it out of the OEM clutch lever assembly to get the bike started and get it home today. Threw on a clutch assembly from a 83 rebel I'm rebuilding.

The plumbers tape tip is much appreciated, I'll grab some before I install a new assembly.
Any assembly with a switch should work. Just change the connector. I wouldn't have thought OEM would be stupid expensive anyway.

Only comment is that on later bikes disabling the clutch switch also screws the fueling so just bypassing the switch may not be an answer.
Any assembly with a switch should work. Just change the connector. I wouldn't have thought OEM would be stupid expensive anyway.

Only comment is that on later bikes disabling the clutch switch also screws the fueling so just bypassing the switch may not be an answer.
The issue I'm seeing is that the connectors are slightly recessed in a cylindrical shape instead of protruding... and I don't really want to do electrical work lol
There are aftermarket assemblies available. Usually, you would only break the lever, but you seem to have broken the clutch perch. Is that correct?
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There are aftermarket assemblies available. Usually, you would only break the lever, but you seem to have broken the clutch perch. Is that correct?
Yes, I broke the entire assembly off. slide and that was the contact point other than the engine guard
The one in your link is a brake master cylinder and clutch, to me the one in Brockies link looks better suited.

You need to choose one that is for a bigger motor size, the ones for 250cc and alike may have a smaller hole for the cable end as the 250's don't require such a heavy duty cable that the 650 uses.

It is fine to bypass the clutch switch on a 2006 bike it will not affect the fuelling.

A motorcycle wreckers will have something that will work if that is a option for you, they would be of better quality than many of the aftermarket ones and more likely to survive another crash.
Since this is a 2006, you can jumper the clutch safety switch and it will keep running.

I'd probably still look for an OEM clutch perch, and if you're not on a tight budget you might consider a Magura hymec - it's a hydraulic conversion with mineral oil and would work as a drop-in replacement.
I bought these for my 2013 and they work. Paid the same in 2018
They look like just the levers, he needs the perch too.
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The simplest cure is to purchase an OEM perch and lever, or an aftermarket copy.
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