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After all the clutch adjustments, clutch plate / basket checking, lever lubrication, etc, it sounds like the clutch cable may be shot. The cable may starting to fray and is the cause of your clutch problems or the worm gear end clutch cable stirrup is cracked on the one side. May I suggest that you ask if any Forum member is close to you, to meet and have test ride on your bike to give a 2nd opinion? Maybe there is something that I'm overlooking when diagnosing this complaint.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Thanks fellas. I've checked the cable and both of its ends carefully and it's all good, and I have watched and felt the actuator move (both the arm and the push rod) as I pulled the lever. The movement is smooth and consistent, as is the clutch lever all the time when I ride. It's only the shifter that feels wrong, although I get your line of reasoning. But I have not looked inside the clutch yet.

That's a good idea about another member. Tucson 1st Gen Wee riders?

Thx, Jeremy
 

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I have a 2005 650 and have the same issues you are having, like you, if there is something wrong with the bike I can't find it. This sounds like a cop-out but has helped me a lot. I started shifting with a very light touch, my tendency is to really kick it into gear, but I get along a lot better with a very light touch, I mean when shifting just slow down give the motor and trans a second to sync. The just push the lever far enough to get it out of gear and let it fall into the next gear. for me this works a lot better than trying to ram it into the next gear, It sounds crazy, but I am getting along a lot better, I hope my explanation was understandable.
 

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If I don't match gear selection with engine & road speed, it can be difficult to shift. An example would be not down shifting as I slow for a stop. Another symptom I've had is when short shifting, like going up a gear at a lower RPM, it can be difficult. It shifts best when shifting at a higher than 3,000/3,500 RPM. So I wonder if you really have a problem.
I didn't read all the posts here, so I apologize if it's been covered.
 

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Thanks fellas. I've checked the cable and both of its ends carefully and it's all good, and I have watched and felt the actuator move (both the arm and the push rod) as I pulled the lever. The movement is smooth and consistent, as is the clutch lever all the time when I ride. It's only the shifter that feels wrong, although I get your line of reasoning. But I have not looked inside the clutch yet.
I've read this thread from start to finish. My problem sounds exactly like GearheadS. I've tried all the same troubleshooting and maintenance suggestions, but nothing has improved the situation. Like GearheadS mentioned, the actuator is smooth and consistent and so is the clutch lever.

GearheadS, if you put your bike on the center stand with the engine on and in 1st gear, what happens when you pull the clutch lever? Does the drive train disengage? Or does the wheel keep spinning?
 

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I have not read all the way through this thread.

But what I found for my bike was the shifting was frustratingly intermittent. It was so random how it would either shift clunky or smooth.

I replaced the clutch, and noticed that the pads were totally fine, it was the steel plates in between the pads that were scored pretty badly.

I have put 8k miles on in the last month, and am very happy I replaced the clutch. Smooth every time as long as the chain is in check.

Hope this helps!

Edit: I got the genuine Suzuki kit online, has gasket and everything for so much cheaper than anywhere else.

Very easy job. I only messed up in one crucial spot: I overtorqued one of the six clutch spring bolts. As long as you keep it at 4 lbs, you will be totally fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
GearheadS, if you put your bike on the center stand with the engine on and in 1st gear, what happens when you pull the clutch lever? Does the drive train disengage? Or does the wheel keep spinning?
I haven't tried this yet, but I will and report back. I highly suspect it will keep spinning.

But what I found for my bike was the shifting was frustratingly intermittent. It was so random how it would either shift clunky or smooth.

I replaced the clutch, and noticed that the pads were totally fine, it was the steel plates in between the pads that were scored pretty badly.

I have put 8k miles on in the last month, and am very happy I replaced the clutch. Smooth every time as long as the chain is in check.
Good to know, but hard to understand what the actual problem was...the scoring I guess? How does the scoring happen, I wonder? What did that clutch kit cost you?

I have been experimenting with my technique, and that does help. It's definitely clutch drag, the more I go along the more sure I am. The coping strategies are consistent with that, kinda like double-clutching a car with worn synchros. For upshifting, I find that either applying pressure to the shifter before pulling the clutch OR pulling the clutch and waiting a second for the engine to spin down helps with the shift. Kinda weird that two seemingly opposing things both help. For downshifting, if I pull the clutch, then blip the throttle as I shift, it helps. So these are good things.

But I've been riding bikes for 30 years, and none of my others has been like this. They all shifted much smoother, consistently so.

Thanks for the input!
 

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I haven't tried this yet, but I will and report back. I highly suspect it will keep spinning.



Good to know, but hard to understand what the actual problem was...the scoring I guess? How does the scoring happen, I wonder? What did that clutch kit cost you?

I have been experimenting with my technique, and that does help. It's definitely clutch drag, the more I go along the more sure I am. The coping strategies are consistent with that, kinda like double-clutching a car with worn synchros. For upshifting, I find that either applying pressure to the shifter before pulling the clutch OR pulling the clutch and waiting a second for the engine to spin down helps with the shift. Kinda weird that two seemingly opposing things both help. For downshifting, if I pull the clutch, then blip the throttle as I shift, it helps. So these are good things.

But I've been riding bikes for 30 years, and none of my others has been like this. They all shifted much smoother, consistently so.

Thanks for the input!
I was having the exact same problem my friend. Double clutching, and waiting a moment would help most of the time.

The actual problem seemed to be the scoring, because it would leave unwanted space in between the plates, ultimately not allowing the clutch to fully engage.

Here is the link to the Clutch Assembly

Dealers were asking 350+, so definitely go with this one. Comes with the gasket and everything.

Your bike will feel brand new when you do this, not to worry!
 
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