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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

I'm in the process of changing the Stator on my Glee 650 and noticed it has 2 filler caps 1 normal one for oil on the right side of the bike with the window and one metal 1 on the left hand side of the bike (stator side) The one on the left is metal and needs a big Allen key to open it.

I've looked at the guides and there is no mention of using the metal one... Do some 650's run separate oil for the Stator instead of using the normal oil?

Thanks

Craig
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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The metal cap is the inspection port for the rotor markings. It is not a filler port. The oil can flow from side cover to side cover.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The metal cap is the inspection port for the rotor markings. It is not a filler port. The oil can flow from side cover to side cover.
Ah, thanks :)

I thought it used the normal engine oil but wasn't 100% sure. I noticed before taking the old stator out the oil was near the bottom of the window. I'm hoping it was a mixture of low oil and possibly being the original strator that caused it to go.

Interestingly I did notice the new stator is a tiny bit smaller

Anyway the gasket should come tomorrow or Saturday and I can get back out there :)
 

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Ah, thanks :)

I thought it used the normal engine oil but wasn't 100% sure. I noticed before taking the old stator out the oil was near the bottom of the window. I'm hoping it was a mixture of low oil and possibly being the original strator that caused it to go.

Interestingly I did notice the new stator is a tiny bit smaller

Anyway the gasket should come tomorrow or Saturday and I can get back out there :)
I strongly advise replacing the stock rectifier/regulator with a SH775, a series regulator made by Shindengen. This will reduce heating of the stator windings which are simply run hotter than they should be in the stock system. The best heat path from the windings to the environment is through the stator laminations to the cover; the oil is only marginally effective at cooling the wire. (The failures are happening where the oil can hardly do any cooling.)

If you have a better-magnetized rotor than usual, stress on the next stator will be as bad as it was on the one which failed. In that case, its longevity is questionable, at best. Instead of relying on luck, just get a R/R which runs the stator at reduced current (as recommended above) instead of the stock R/R which overheats the wire.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I strongly advise replacing the stock rectifier/regulator with a SH775, a series regulator made by Shindengen. This will reduce heating of the stator windings which are simply run hotter than they should be in the stock system. The best heat path from the windings to the environment is through the stator laminations to the cover; the oil is only marginally effective at cooling the wire. (The failures are happening where the oil can hardly do any cooling.)

If you have a better-magnetized rotor than usual, stress on the next stator will be as bad as it was on the one which failed. In that case, its longevity is questionable, at best. Instead of relying on luck, just get a R/R which runs the stator at reduced current (as recommended above) instead of the stock R/R which overheats the wire.
I think I'll go down that route just to be safe

I'm in Scotland and I found one on eBay for £90 (I'm not allowed to post Links)

It has universal connectors which I'm thinking is maybe a straight swap out job? Unless there is a better place to buy from
 

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