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Discussion Starter #1
Hey has anyone tried an 18 tooth on the front I'm trying to bring the RPMs down on the highway and I feel like the bike has plenty of low end grunt not too interested in popping wheelies but would definitely like to see the fuel consumption at about 80 miles per hour slow down.. 80 miles per hour is about the average Interstate speed around here any slower than that and you're getting passed by tractor trailers the givi Airstream two brothers pipe and boosterplug have majorly transformed this bike and it has a little bit more touring ability but it really has a fuel drinking problem at about 3/4 throttle in a 40 mile run if I'm on the pipe I can literally watch the fuel gauge dropping and it is tacked way up about to buy a new set of chain and sprocket of anyway adjust the researching some options not looking for low speed low end power it is geared 2 low already the bike is a complete handful trying to ride off road in first all the time hit the gas at throws you to the seat let off the gas and it wants to throw you over the handlebars it's no dirt bike but I believe it could benefit from a slightly taller gearing anyone have any input from actually trying it not even sure if an 18t sprocket will fit on the counter shaft and tuck-in properly with no clearance issues.... anyone that knows anything about it I would be much obliged to hear it

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I have a customer that run(s) an 18 tooth countershaft sprocket on a first gen DL 1000. I think, but am not positive, that the later DL 1000 from 2014 and up may not have the same 6th gear ratio. Meaning they turn more rpms. So I can tell you it will fit with no issue. Maybe even on the stock chain setup. Probably only going to see about a 250 rpm drop at around 4000 rpm.
Fuel mileage? I rather doubt it will change much. But it won't hurt to try! Wind drag is your biggest fuel mileage factor at that speed. Depending on several factors, dropping rpm may not net much change either way.
 

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Second that. Gear changes don't seem to impact MPG much, if at all. The V-Stroms have really bad aerodynamics and drag forces scale to velocity squared (v^2). Some experts argue that it is probably closer v^3 due to non-linear effects. If you can clean up anything sticking out into the airstream (e.g. side cases, handle bar accessories, etc.) and causing turbulence you might see an improvement because a small change can drop the drag forces a lot. If you could run a test and cruise at 75MPH for a tank or two and see how much the MPGs are affected, could be significant and would point you in the right direction.

Also, the Boosterplug tricks the ECU into running rich by hacking the Air Intake Temp sensor. I don't think it impacts cruising just low RPM, coming off idle and low speed manuevering (ECU open loop mode) where the lean A/F ratio impacts the driveability. The website claims a ~5% hit on MPG but for most riders that is a good tradeoff for driveabiliy. Your non-OEM pipes maybe a problem too and the only fix would be to either go back to stock and see if the mileage goes up OR dump the Boosterplug and get a Power Commander and remap the A/F to match the pipes but that can be expensive to get the tuning right and may not gain you much MPG. It is usually used to get more HP, i.e. lowers the MPG, but I don't see why it could not be tuned for MPG and driveability instead.
 
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As others have said dropping RPM's may not get you a fuel saving, you end up with the throttle open further to push through the air, you can test this with your current gearing by marking your throttle grip and selecting between 5 & 6 but at a lower speed, at times you will have the throttle open more in 6 than you will in 5 to maintain speed.

I believe the V2 is over geared and dropped to a 16t, I would never ever consider a 18

On my Wee I dropped a tooth from the front, I gained 5kph in top speed and saved 0.5lt of fuel per 100ks, I never measured my V2 because from my first ride I knew I would be dropping a tooth.
 

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The Vee engine design is not purposed to be a tractor. The engineers included short rods and short stroke to favor a high rpm ceiling and reduced linear piston SFM. By geometry alone this dictates a short load dwell period to produce rotational power. This design encourages moderate torque numbers in favor of a revvy, lively power signature. Chaining this engine to tall overall gearing is counterproductive. Most every owner here notes the poor running attitude below 4Krpm. Also of note is the wide gap between gears to be overcome at every upshift. ROLEX (above) Says it best.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hey I got to say I agree with the aerodynamics issue and the Givi Airstream pounds the wind for sure and certainly could be a factor in the fuel consumption it seems like at low RPMs I am able to stretch a tank of gas for a considerable distance as soon as I start getting high in RPM range that's when it seems to get thirsty it could be that the increased air pressure on the front end at higher speeds and as someone mentioned the hard bags I have sticking out into the wind stream on the side could all be contributing factors I know for a fact the givi windscreen is a big offender because in the right conditions I can feel the front end shuddering under the force of the air being compressed between the screens . it is a hideous Farkle but if you haven't tried one the difference is night and day . I don't think I can give up the Airstream windscreen it is literally like being in the eye of a hurricane it is 100% proof when you lean outside of the envelope about 4 or 5 inches and the Roar of the Wind comes back I took it off for a short period of time in the summer last year and after a 2 hour ride where I couldn't even hear the tunes on my cardo I couldn't put it back on fast enough LOL. I've had a lot of motorcycles most of them standard bikes and none of them created the Absurd wind turbulence that the V-Strom does.. as far as the 18th tooth goes it sounds like a lot of people have considered it but I can't see where anyone has actually done it.. I feel like the bike has pretty good acceleration ability when it is up around 80 with the stock gearing I'm not trying to drag race anyone in Top Gear just trying to bring the RPMs down feel like I'm ringing its neck a little too hard usually when RPMs come down fuel mileage goes up.
I am replacing the sprockets before spring while I am literally snowed in trying to hit the ground running when the temps start floating around 40 and up..
I was looking at an RK X-Ring chain and I was considering supersprox sprockets as a replacement anyone have any input on that? It seems Vortec is the only brand I have found that sells an 18 tooth front sprocket. In the 525 series that will fit the Strom.

Thanks for all the input guys I'm the only one I know that has a V-Strom 1000 and my wife isn't the best one to ask for advice although she has plenty of opinions
LOL
.. running Dunlap trailmax tires now much better Road manners and surprisingly capable on reasonable trails givi air Airstream selectively blacked out with Plasti Dip
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Discussion Starter #8
The Vee engine design is not purposed to be a tractor. The engineers included short rods and short stroke to favor a high rpm ceiling and reduced linear piston SFM. By geometry alone this dictates a short load dwell period to produce rotational power. This design encourages moderate torque numbers in favor of a revvy, lively power signature. Chaining this engine to tall overall gearing is counterproductive. Most every owner here notes the poor running attitude below 4Krpm. Also of note is the wide gap between gears to be overcome at every upshift. ROLEX (above) Says it best.
Are you referring to a 650 because of the 1000 has plenty of as you referred to tractor power with medium slippage I can leave a traffic light from a dead stop in 3rd gear no shortage of power here bro

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Are you referring to a 650 because of the 1000 has plenty of as you referred to tractor power with medium slippage I can leave a traffic light from a dead stop in 3rd gear no shortage of power here bro

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VEE. The second word in my post.
 

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Are you referring to a 650 because of the 1000 has plenty of as you referred to tractor power with medium slippage I can leave a traffic light from a dead stop in 3rd gear no shortage of power here bro

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Well then, stick that sucker in fourth and faghetabout it. Your clutch will thank you for it.......bro
 

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VEE. The second word in my post.
Sorry man I guess VEE also means WEE. Think I got the terminology a little off anyway I don't mean to come off like a smart-ass so please don't take it that way and I appreciate your input it's kind of fun shopping for ideas for your toys and getting other people's opinions on what works and what doesn't maybe I'll get someone on here has tried the 18 tooth maybe they'll tell me it was a horrible idea
LOL!
Cheers man!

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Gas mileage is about the wind resistance not the motor RPM in my experience.

Having owned a 2012 650 and now a 2014 1000 gas mileage decreases past 75ish.

You can go faster in 5th gear than 6th on the 650 (and probably the 1000 but I don't want to try!) exponentially more power is needed at some point. That requires more gas.

Anecdotal but riding my 1000 at 80 mph into a headwind gas mileage was low 20s mpg (according to the current usage on the dash). Not a lot of power in 6th either, down shifting to 5th didn't change the usage much at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I am trying to talk myself out of thinking that I need and FJR 1300! As a third bike for touring Duty ..getting crowded in the garage I was trying to Swiss Army the DL 1K one step further to prevent adding a Yamaha to the stable..... it may be inevitable I almost crossed the line and got a KTM 1290.Super Adventure but the list of technical issues and flat-out failures has kept me out of that.... the DL 1K is a great bike for what it is but it is a little bit short in some areas and I think as many tweaks and fancy tricks I do to it it's still just going to be a little too short for long-legged trips .No way I'm riding that thing to Alaska with it tacked all the way up like that..

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I guess it is what you like and expect from a bike.

I dropped a tooth because I was not using 6th gear and even now I find I set my electronic cruse control when at my happy speed only to look at my dash and find I'm still in 5th.

I did fit a PCFC and had a custom tune built, that boosted my torque from 70ft-lb to 74 and moved it from 6500rpm to 3700, so at 3700rpm it went from 65ft-lb to 74 & it also boosted my torque at 2200rpm from 29.94 to 49.94, you would think with all that extra torque I would short shift but that's not the case.

These motors are happy to rev but I get that some don't like to listen to it.
 
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Aerodynamic tax is exponential with speed.
I have a 2014 V-2 and aero-wise it is as dirty as they come.
I'll be using it for my post-pandemic ride. I'm considering getting two of those adjustable windshield spoilers (the cheap ones $22) for the brackets to mount "lowers" vertically on my crash bars. The objective is getting the boundary layer from below the handle bars down to my feet wider. I played around with it last summer using some yarn as pennants and a sliced up waste basket on one side. It took surprisingly little to smooth it out.
 

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I guess it is what you like and expect from a bike.

I dropped a tooth because I was not using 6th gear and even now I find I set my electronic cruse control when at my happy speed only to look at my dash and find I'm still in 5th.

I did fit a PCFC and had a custom tune built, that boosted my torque from 70ft-lb to 74 and moved it from 6500rpm to 3700, so at 3700rpm it went from 65ft-lb to 74 & it also boosted my torque at 2200rpm from 29.94 to 49.94, you would think with all that extra torque I would short shift but that's not the case.

These motors are happy to rev but I get that some don't like to listen to it.
Rolex, would you share more about your development with the PC and the gains of power? That's a fat gain of performance to be had with mixture and spark tuning. Very interesting!
 

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Sorry man I guess VEE also means WEE. Think I got the terminology a little off anyway I don't mean to come off like a smart-ass so please don't take it that way and I appreciate your input it's kind of fun shopping for ideas for your toys and getting other people's opinions on what works and what doesn't maybe I'll get someone on here has tried the 18 tooth maybe they'll tell me it was a horrible idea
LOL!
Cheers man!

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To be clear what we are speaking of - Vee around here would be the 1000cc engine design and Wee is the 650. There is a benefit in using an 18T sproket perhaps. Your chain would find a reduced angle of deflection as it turned the bend. As Real Shelby has written, there are those who use the taller gearing.
 

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A perhaps minor issue albeit, but running 60-40, non-radial tires is not helping your mpg issue. The Dunlop's are an improvement in rolling resistance, but still bias ply I'm pretty sure...
Also I can see like me you have double take mirrors, engine guards, bark busters, luggage, etc all adding not only weight, but aerodynamics of a barn door with appendages...what do you expect? Like others have mentioned, drag increases exponentially with speed. An 18 tooth counter sprocket is not going to do anything but hurt rideability.

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Rolex, would you share more about your development with the PC and the gains of power? That's a fat gain of performance to be had with mixture and spark tuning. Very interesting!
I fitted a PCFC and installed their map, while the seat of the pants told me I had some good gains I thought there was more to be had and I would always have that doubt in the back of my mind.

So I took my bike to Dave at Sydney Dyno, it's a pity I don't have the stock numbers to compare with, all my numbers and improvements are what I gained over the PCFC map, the seat of the pants dyno tells me the difference would have been even bigger over the stock Suzuki tune but I can't prove that.

It was the first Strom Dave had done so we talked about what I wanted from the bike and how I used the bike, we did things like tuned it a little rich at my usual cruise speeds and moved the torque a little earlier to help with the low grunt we all love.

I think I will be paying Dave another visit because we had a recall here in OZ and had the ECU replaced, I hate the new ECU and mainly the RPM assist that increases the RPM as the clutch leaver is released, with my torque I don't need the extra RPM's and my bike would move away and crawl around at idle, now my idle is higher so is my minimum speed and I now have that doubt again "is my bike performing at it's best"

These are my numbers, first with the PCFC map and second with the custom tune built by Dave, as you can see there was quite a improvement I just don't know how much it changed from the Suzuki map.

HP 94 to 98 @8000
Torque 70 @6500 to 74 @3700
Torque 65 @3700 to 74 @3700
Torque 30 @2200 to 50 @2200
 

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I fitted a PCFC and installed their map, while the seat of the pants told me I had some good gains I thought there was more to be had and I would always have that doubt in the back of my mind.

So I took my bike to Dave at Sydney Dyno, it's a pity I don't have the stock numbers to compare with, all my numbers and improvements are what I gained over the PCFC map, the seat of the pants dyno tells me the difference would have been even bigger over the stock Suzuki tune but I can't prove that.

It was the first Strom Dave had done so we talked about what I wanted from the bike and how I used the bike, we did things like tuned it a little rich at my usual cruise speeds and moved the torque a little earlier to help with the low grunt we all love.

I think I will be paying Dave another visit because we had a recall here in OZ and had the ECU replaced, I hate the new ECU and mainly the RPM assist that increases the RPM as the clutch leaver is released, with my torque I don't need the extra RPM's and my bike would move away and crawl around at idle, now my idle is higher so is my minimum speed and I now have that doubt again "is my bike performing at it's best"

These are my numbers, first with the PCFC map and second with the custom tune built by Dave, as you can see there was quite a improvement I just don't know how much it changed from the Suzuki map.

HP 94 to 98 @8000
Torque 70 @6500 to 74 @3700
Torque 65 @3700 to 74 @3700
Torque 30 @2200 to 50 @2200
Thanks ROLEX for sharing your development work. Those are nice gains in the roll on zone. I too got wrapped up in a Suzuki ECU recall (gen 1). Not so happy with the outcome.
 
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