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Discussion Starter #1
For those that have put a 16 tooth front sprocket on . Did you have to lengthen the chain?
Thanks, Mike.
 

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No, stock chain works fine. Stock chain also works for 17t front sprocket.

You will swear you cannot get the sprockets off/on because you cannot get the chain off them. Release the chain tensioners all the way and move axle fully forward. Loosen sprocket nut. Which can be a chore all to itself. Air impact is your friend here, and some heat may be required in really stubborn cases. There is high strength locking compound on these from the factory.

Now that you have the sprocket nut off, work the chain off the BACKSIDE of the sprocket! Normal instinct is to take it off to the outside. That won't work......!!!! Slide sprocket off and put new one on. Work chain on from the backside....and voila!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks! I had bought a 43 tooth for the rear and the chain is WAY too long. I've never broken a chain apart and didn't want to start with this one!
 

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a 16T front socket has been the number one best upgrade for my Wee. I don't go off-road so the gearing is perfect for the road. Speedometer now reads correctly and RMPs are at 5,500 at 75mph. Makes going the speed limit seem like the motor isn't even running.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
That's all good to hear. Once or twice a year I get to really put down some miles (3-5k) in a week. I didn't want to stress the engine too much. My last two bikes were bigger and could take 80 all day easily. I've go be down in size because I'm 63 and don't like picking up big (Super Tenere) loaded bikes when i drop them....and i do.
 

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The 16 tooth won't really be much easier, if any, on the engine. Turns about 350 rpms less ( around that number ) at 70 mph. You, or at least me, will still be turning well over 5,000 rpms most of the day.

My advice is masking tape. Cover the tachometer. Then you don't fret about the rpms'. Plenty here have run these at 6,000+ rpm for tank after tank. We did on the 2004 heading out West. They just eat it up. No worries. Only thing to watch is that some ( for sure not all ) DL 650's will push some oil into the airbox when run at very high rpms for extended periods. Just check your oil a couple times to be sure it isn't doing that.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
realshelby - when I first picked up my Wee, I rode it back to Louisiana from Georgia. I was and still am truly amazed at how smooth the engine runs at 5,000 - 5,500 rpms.
Thanks for the tip on checking the oil.
 

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I've read a lot of threads on going with 16t. Lots of yays and nays, not sure what to do :grin2:

I read that it may not be easy on the glee like it was on the wee. Is that correct or did I misread?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I've read a lot of threads on going with 16t. Lots of yays and nays, not sure what to do :grin2:

I read that it may not be easy on the glee like it was on the wee. Is that correct or did I misread?
You mean putting it on or easy on the engine?
Putting it on(or rather, getting the sprocket off ) looks to be an impact wrench job.
 

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Cut the chain, when my chain wore out at 35 k I changed whole drive train.
Put 1 tooth smaller rear sprocket to increase topend speed a touch.
Heaps of uTube for putting joining link in
 

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Re-gearing / sprocket set results, can be found via https://www.gearingcommander.com. Enter your bike details and then the sprocket setup that you are considering. You will be able to compare stock gearing (aka rpm / speed) vs your planned gearing selection. Also remember to disable your browser's ad-blocker, for the site to display correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yes, 47t is standard rear but I wanted something a little lower for dirt work, so I went to 48t on rear rather than going smaller up front.
Gotcha, I don't do enough dirt to go that way with it.
This past week I camped 3 nights and 4 days and put 850 miles on the Wee. I stayed on 2-lanes except for going around Little Rock.
I like to go long distance ...talking SS1000 stuff. I think the 16 tooth will do just fine for me!
 
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