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Discussion Starter #1
The title says it. Don't want to go to the difficulty of chking valve clearance if it's not needed. What do you think?
 

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There is another way to ask this question... What does peace of mind and not having burned valves worth to you? It's up to you, it's your bike... It's in the manual for a reason...:fineprint:
 

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Plus, a valve CHECK doesn't take too long. Adjustment would add quite a bit of time, of course. I would highly recommend performing the valve clearance check, as recommended.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Do you feel lucky?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Let me put it another way

Is there anybody out there that NEEDED an adjustment at 15K?
 

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uhm, yea. Do it. Checking them isn't too much trouble and if you have to adjust, well then it's worth it.

No one can actually tell you if you need it done or not but like CanadianFZ6 hints at, it's not in the manual nothing.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks GW!

That should answer my question.:hurray:
 

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Even if the clearance is in spec but at the tight end, adjusting to the mid point or slightly wider clearance will probably mean that the valves not need an adjustment for many, many more miles. Set 'em and forget 'em.
 

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Even if the clearance is in spec but at the tight end, adjusting to the mid point or slightly wider clearance will probably mean that the valves not need an adjustment for many, many more miles. Set 'em and forget 'em.
At roughly 15K on the odo my valves were dead center spec. I had the mechanic open them up to the widest spec. I anticipate having to worry about valves when I have to worry about what junkyard to haul the bike to.
:thumbup:
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Even if the clearance is in spec but at the tight end, adjusting to the mid point or slightly wider clearance will probably mean that the valves not need an adjustment for many, many more miles. Set 'em and forget 'em.
I wound up doing more work avoiding the inevitable. Over three clearance checks, two valves were hanging on the edge of the minimum. On the third check, I got them all between half and maximum and intend to stop checking. Before anybody asks about why the between half and maximum, the difference between shims is .05mm and the difference between half and maximum is also .05mm. Unless the original gap is right at full or middle, between is where it winds up.

The bike may come with a shim ending in a 2, but that's a whole other story.
 

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Like the others have said, you are going to have to do it at some point so why not now and get it out of the way? Peace of mind is a wonderful thing.

Only one of my valves needed a small adjustment, but I opened them all up to near max anyway so I'll never have to look at a decapitated engine again.
 

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12.8k & good

I just did the first check on my 06 and they were right in the middle of the specification range. I was worried about needing to check them but now I know they are good. It did seem like a pain to get to the front cylinder so I pulled the radiator and it was as easy to get to/check as the rear cylinder. I guess you can check them with out pulling the radiator but I didn't want to fight it.
 

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The title says it. Don't want to go to the difficulty of chking valve clearance if it's not needed. What do you think?
you may not have to adjust the valves, but you only know if your check them

ignore any other routine maintenance(not including oil change) and the worse that can happen is a crappy running bike that can be fixed just by doing the maintenance

Ignore valves that could be out of spec, and the bike will not only not run as well, it will also damage the bike, what's the worse that could happen? a valve stem burns, breaks and puts a hole thu one of your pistons. valves burn rather quickly when they don't close all the way



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In my opinion, the very first valve check could be the most important. It establishes the benchmark for how the engine has worn in from new, and whether or not it was setup correctly at the factory.

Of course, you would never expect them to make a mistake at the factory... ;)
 

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I had mine checked at 20k by a Suzuki mechanic that told me I was wasting his time and my money. When he finished, he told me they were dead spec, he reminded me he tried to tell me, and to bring it back at 60k.
 

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I'm coming up on 15,000 on my "new to me" Wee. I'll check them for piece of mind. I don't like having the unknown lingering over me...and it gives me a chance to work on my baby!
 

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Discussion Starter #19

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$ 0.02

Bucket / shim valves pound the seats so clearance closes over time

When this is at critical stage, the valve begins to leak. The fire from combustion goes through this leak and acts like a cutting torch and will ruin valve and seat $$$$$

I admit to being hard on bikes but my Yamaha supposedly had a 24000 mile valve check. I decided to be in there at 12000 and some were already under spec.

Next winter my Vee will be getting this done.*

* If you know someone with a real machine shop surface grinder you can just trim the existing shims easy peasy. Also by swapping them out sometimes you can get all you need without buying any.

I use an egg crate to store them all where they want to be
 
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