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Fellows

Just thought to share some thoughts, experiences and, of course, opinions regarding the 15,000 mile service I performed on my 2003 dl1000.

Valve adjustment........wish I had not waited till 15 k miles to check. Everything was out of spec. tight. All four intake valves were too tight to get a .04 mm feeler into them.
Like others have said you do need the instructions provided in the Suzuki service manual. I did not have to fool w the cam chain at all to get the cams off.

TBS - It was suggested to me by a mechanic to 2x check the tb synchronization after the valve adjust. That turned out to have been good advice.

Put in the 3rd pair of spark plugs.

Sprockets and chain.....The chain never did exceed the manual's specification for stretch but I'm glad to have replaced the assembly at this time after having a look at the stuff in my hand. The only thing that may not have been worn past servicability was the rear sprocket.

Went w an RK x ring chain, model XSO - stayed w the 525 size especially after noting the significantly greater strength rating of this chain compared to the stock chain.
Went w a 16 / 42 ratio. Next time I'll not use a 16 tooth sprocket because 16 x 7 = 112 exactly. So the same links always ride on the same teeth. Also think I should have gone bigger than stock to get more life out of it.

Cam chain clatter....... For a couple of thousand miles there was a clattering noise in the engine. It seemed to be valve related judging from its relationship to engine rpm. I had figured to find a loose valve or two which turned out to be far from true.
I had the bike reassembled already and then decided to fool w the front cam chain tensioner. Removing a couple of bolts from the oil cooler provides access to the tensioner. Inspection showed that the tensioner was malfunctioning........it wold not extend past its current position. Seems like it was hydraulicly locked. Working the mechanism by hand a few times seemed to free it up. Reinstalled it and then decided to remove the center bolt, which is essentially an oil plug when installed, and stuck a small tool in the screwhole to lightly push the plunger open.....it did go 1 ratchet click. The bike was amazingly quiet after that.
I may periodically poke down on the tensioner's plunger just to make sure.

Following a post on another site by Lumir Bakota, I think. The gist of the post was that the IAT sensor being positioned where it is (bottom of airbox) was reading erroneously high temperature, due to radiant heating from the heat machine right below it. The higher the intake air temperature the leaner the fuel mix. He said to put a 680 ohm resistor on the signal line to compensate.
I repositioned the sensor up to the nose fairing bracket - in fresh air- and put a swithable 550 ohm resistor in line. I like the 550 ohms IN. This mod seems to have accomplished what others have posted to be the results of remapping.

I cannot remember when the bike ran so well, power & smooth, and I'm the original owner.
Funny how things get out of tune so slowly and regularly that the lack of tune goes unnoticed until maintenance is done.

Damn...sure was alot of words.

Steve
 

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Good information

I'm getting ready to do this on my 03.

Did you replace the valve cover gaskets or reuse? I noticed in the service manual it says to replace and to us moly grease on the end caps. Seems if everything is in good order, this isn't necessary.
 

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valve cover gaskets

I took advice from a couple of other posts and did not change out the valve cover gaskets....nor did I put anything but a smear of oil on the originals when reinstalled.
3 - 400 miles later no leaks.

One other thing I did was to take a picture of both the front and rear cam assemblies at the position at which I removed them. These pics turned out to improve confidence at reassembly. I seemed that the lines said to be parallel to the head were not exactly parallel.

The shims are available from places other than Suzuki....I think it's kawasaki that uses the same 9.5 mm shims. A local shop let me swap shims out with him.....even a second time.

One other thing to be wary of is to not overtighten (read strip) the cam holddowns.

Steve
 

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Hey Steve, i have a K3 and am 11K miles...was wondering about doing the service before the riding season... how long did it take? and this would be my first shot at this part of the bike (the engine) did you use the paper manual to do the service? or some forum post to give you the "heads up" where necessary? Pics would be cool to look at! Jorge.
 

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I would not attempt valve adjustment without the suzuki manual, www dot mikeschinkel dot com/Motorcycles/V%2DStrom/.

I may still have some pics in my camera...look tomorrow.

Valve adjust probably took 3-4 hours to get all apart and measured. Another 3 to get it back together once I had the shims. I'm not fast. I tinker and enjoy it.

What does 'riding season' mean? It's open all year round in Houston.

Steve
 

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Radiator drain. Steve did you have to disconnect the radiator hose and drain coolant to swing the bottom of the radiator forward? Or did you just remove it?
 

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14,200 miles and I checked my valves.

Well, all my valves checked very close to each other and all at least .02 from the minimum clearance, so I think I"m going to leave it like it is. All the intakes were in the .125-.150 range and all exhausts .225 to .250 range.

Based on everyones experiences, and how well my bike is running, I'm leaving it like it is. Besides, I've got to ride it from VA to St Louis, to OH to VA to WV and back home over the next couple weeks.

I did remove the radiator, just makes things easier. Plus I like to clean things up.

I notice two things - one, the rubber end caps that are part of the valve cover. These left loose pieces of rubber hanging on the inside of the heads. I checked both and pulled all the loose pieces out. Probably would get caught in the filter, but who knoes.

Also, paint on the radiator where the hoses connect is coming off, some in large pieces. I was careful to get all this off and even wiped some from the inside of the hoses. Again, maybe no big deal but don't like the idea of this crap floating thorough the radiator or water pump.
 

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funny Steve...Open all year... not here in NJ although we tease mother nature and ride all year just for not very long and not when its icy out...

I do have the paper manual so i will think about it... then again its running so good i may just wait until after the spring trips and get to it before any real summer tours...

Thanks for the response. Jorge.
 
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I printed off the applicable pages for the valve clearance check/adjust. It would be a good idea to take digital photos of the cam markings. My cams' markings wer very hard to read, plus as I recall, the front cyclinder cams were off horizontal about 1/2 tooth's worth. Also the cams have split, spring loaded gears so you should check and re-check that the cams are installed correctly. I didn't remove the radiator and had enough room with it pushed forward. I used replacement shims from the Honda dealer......they are the same as on the 1000 SuperHawk and the RC51.

Dennis
 

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Steve strom said:
Went w a 16 / 42 ratio. Next time I'll not use a 16 tooth sprocket because 16 x 7 = 120 exactly. So the same links always ride on the same teeth. Also think I should have gone bigger than stock to get more life out of it.
Am I missing something? 16 x 7 = 120? I'm new so I'm not trying to be a smart-ass (yet) but 16 x 7 = 112. Does it make a difference?
 

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Oops........I guess you're using 'new' math.
Glad you caught it. It is significant in that 112 is the number of links in the strom's drive chain.
So, 112 / 16 = 7 means that there is a potential for a cyclic wear pattern. Someone suggested that w this situation the sprocket will develop an elliptical (non-circular) wear pattern.

Gotta try to edit the orig post.

Steve
 

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Still, my answer actually makes it worse, right? So, if you are re-gearing, one consideration is not to have one of the sprockets a simple multiple of the number of chain links?

If it really was a 120 link chain then 120/16 = 7.5. Does that mean that the same links would contact the same teeth on the sprocket every second time around for the chain? The stock setup (112/17 = 6.5882352941176470588235294117647) kind of rules out the whole concern, doesn't it?

Thanks for the lesson. I've never even considered this before.
 

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2003strom said:
I used replacement shims from the Honda dealer......they are the same as on the 1000 SuperHawk and the RC51.
add 'Busa to that list too.
 

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Steve Strom, I have to muddy the waters concerning ratios, gears and chains.

112/15=7.46666

112/16=7.0

112/17=6.588

112/18=6.2222

112/42=2.6666 rear sprocket

As you can see the smaller the sprocket is, the more times it has to go around before a specific tooth contacts a specific roller of the chain. Therefore there is less chance of setting up a wear pattern between sprocket and chain.
As you can also see, the rear sprocket should be toast long before the front sprocket. The ratio should make the rear sprocket and chain wear at a faster rate. Then why does the rear sprocket last longer you say ? The only logical thing I can think of is the greater number of teeth and chain rollers on the rear share the load generated by the engine. Less load per tooth and roller. Less overall wear.
If I am wrong, please, somebody wade in and straighten me out. Another thing to consider is the quality of the sprockets and chain material. A real hard course chain would eat sprockets like smarties. One bad sprocket could damage the chain which in turn would damage the other sprocket. It is sort of a crap shoot as I see it. Just get good quality parts and Ride On.
 

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WW again concerning the above theory. A larger front sprocket would have a lower ratio/higher wear rate but would probably benefit by more teeth sharing the load generated by the engine. Somebody help me if I am wrong.
 

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The front should wear first because the fewer teeth will see more chain per mile. 42/17 = 2.47, so the front sprocket must rotate about 2-1/2 times for a single rotation of the rear sprocket..
 

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At the first chain and sprocket replacement, 15 k miles, The stock front sprocket was obviously worn while I would have to use some kind of tool to measure whether or not the rear sprocket was significantly worn.
I guessed it was due to revolutions per distance as someone stated in a post above. Used this reasoning to justify putting an aluminum sprocket on the rear.

Steve
 
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