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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
My stock one broke at the lever at 17k. Middle of almost nowhere. Found a cable ferrule at a tiny hardware store and smashed it on the end with 2 rocks. I’m sure the risers and the cable re-route put too much bend on the cable causing early failure. Any one have a solution to lengthen the cable and go back to stock routing?


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And make sure the slot in the adjuster is pointing more or less up when you tighten it.

I have a 2012 DL650 with 130,000k's on it. You either set the adjuster such that the cable would fray or screwed up replacing the cable at some point because there's no intrinsic weakness there. Fairly sure on that because I did the same on my first DL.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So everyone that has +2 Rox risers just leaves the clutch cable alone? I had to relocate it behind triple tree, taking it out of the cable guide it originally was in. In looking it over with the new stock cable, it just has too much downward bend as soon as it comes out of the perch. It’s zip tied, but surely is much tighter bend than going in front of handle bars like stock location


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When I was restoring my T3 Guzzi (around '95), I needed custom throttle cables. I found a vendor who sold the various components, cable, a variety of ends, sheathes, ferrules, etc. IIRC they also sold heavier cables for brakes and clutches. I'm sure you can find this stuff out there - just try a google search, or several searches.

Making your own is not that difficult. (No I don't remember the company's name. This was 25 years ago.)
 

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Here is a whole thread of peoples replies to installing risers. https://www.stromtrooper.com/dl650a-2012-2016/74495-handlebar-risers-3.html
I agree with MPRblue in that if your cable broke near the nipple that the nipple was not rotating within the clutch lever. Lightly grease the nipple, the hole it goes in, the shoulder bolt and the clutch lever and perch parts that touch.
 

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There are places that will make custom cables yes. Some cars still use cables for things like handbrake, try phoning around the local car parts stores for leads.

And there are some tricks, you can rotate the clutch forward somewhat which will help (The limit is mirror adjustment) and reroute the cable to get more slack.

And yeah, risers will do what you described but you do also have to be very careful with assembly, it's quite easy to leave things in such a way that the cable is bending up and down, or fraying against the adjuster. In my case it was just being careless with reassembly after replacing the bars that got me, no risers involved. On the other hand, my current DL without risers but taller bars has insane mileage with no issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks. I’ll double check the position of the tensioner screw slot and keep an eye on the cable end movement. The adjustment screw area is more where it failed so it must have just slowly rubbed and weakened the cable.


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A break at the lever is usually caused by the barrel not rotating in the lever. This causes the cable to flex.
Keep the barrel well lubed to prevent this.
Here is a whole thread of peoples replies to installing risers. https://www.stromtrooper.com/dl650a-2012-2016/74495-handlebar-risers-3.html
I agree with MPRblue in that if your cable broke near the nipple that the nipple was not rotating within the clutch lever. Lightly grease the nipple, the hole it goes in, the shoulder bolt and the clutch lever and perch parts that touch.

If the cable breaks at the barrel, it's almost always time to replace the clutch lever. The hole wears into an egg shape which traps the "barrel", keeps it from rotating, and over time, the steel strands break from the constant bending back and forth.

If you've already broken one cable like this, replace the lever or you'll soon break the next cable. A broken clutch cable is not just an inconvenience; it's a critical, high priority item that can easily kill you, so it's simply not worth taking chances.

On a related note, it's well worth buying only Suzuki OEM cables. They're surprisingly cheap (often nearly the same or even cheaper than aftermarket) and light-years better quality and longer-lasting than the imitation garbage peddled by Motion Pro and the like. OEM levers are also far better than the aftermarket levers, and not all that much more expensive than the imitations.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Suzuki cable was like 48 and overnight delivery to dealer on my route was like 18. I’ll post a pic of my field repair that held for 100+miles and several obnoxious red lights in big time Boise.


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