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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Have everything I need for my valve clearance check, I hope. I don't want any last minute surprises
do I need anything else?

Service manual (not shown)

Feeler gauges stepped in the size I need for checking the valves

New spark plugs (might as well while I'm in there)

New coolant silicate borate free

Oil change and filter

chain lube (it's due)

brake fluid to flush the brakes

sockets and allen wrenches


 

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Leave the plugs be, replace them at next check.....everything else looks good, where are the torque wrenches?
 
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Discussion Starter #3
Leave the plugs be, replace them at next check.....everything else looks good, where are the torque wrenches?
OK I'll leave them alone.
I have a torque wrench in my tool box.
 

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I'm working on the same on my 2015 ...
 
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Technically...
Air filter is due as well.

:wink2:


Also, I've been told fuel filters are good to replace often.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Do I need to drain the gas tank or is there a check valve to keep the gas from pouring out?
 

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New valve cover gaskets?

When you disconnect the fuel line from the fuel pump that lives inside the tank, no fuel will flow out. So don't worry about that. Just have a rag handy to catch the few drops that will inevitably spill.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
New valve cover gaskets?

When you disconnect the fuel line from the fuel pump that lives inside the tank, no fuel will flow out. So don't worry about that. Just have a rag handy to catch the few drops that will inevitably spill.
Aren't the valve cover gaskets reusable?
 

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Here's my list when I did it:
Shim kit
Metric feeler gauge
Molybdenum grease
Rubber head gaskets
1211 Three Bond Silicone
Coolant
Air Cleaner
Air cleaner foam
ACF50 spray
Tie wraps
Inner tube
4 spark plugs

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

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Need a knuckle to remove rear CC tensioner. Worst part of the job is dealing with them. Paint or cable ties for cam chain marking. Lots of ways to get the fuel out of the tank. Those shake hoses work well.

Sent from my LGLS676 using Tapatalk
 

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Aren't the valve cover gaskets reusable?
The Service Manual I have (for the 2002 DL1000) says "Use the new gaskets to prevent oil leakage" (page 3-111). I don't think the DL650 is all that different in this respect, but you never know...

At my favourite parts site (motorcyclespareparts.eu) the gasket is only about 25 euros. I figure it's a good four hours of labour to remove everything you need to remove (plastic bits, fuel tank, coolant, radiator, oil, ...), then do the inspection, then install everything again. I would not want to run the risk of ending up with a leaking gasket and having to do all that over again. Not for the sixty or so euros it's going to cost me to get new gaskets.

(Note that on the 2002 DL1000 you need two gaskets per cylinder: One that wraps around the whole cylinder, and one that seals the spark plug hole. Plus, the DL1000 requires the application of some "Suzuki Bond 1207B" to the cam end caps of the gaskets. This could well be different on a DL650.)
 

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Doesn't hurt to look at the spark plugs. Check to see if they are iridium and look at their condition. Usually can tell the condition of the cylinder too.

To empty the fuel tank, I remove the fuel relay and fuel hose. Put a special hose on the discharge end into a fuel can. Jump the correct wires and let the fuel pump remove the fuel in the tank for me.
 

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Aren't the valve cover gaskets reusable?
They are if you don't tear them. Also, they are silicon-ed down inside the half moon slots on each cylinder, so if you pull the gasket off from the top(keeping them with the cover, you will have to re-silicone them. But, if you leave them on the cylinder and carefully separate the cover from the gasket without disturbing the silicon-ed areas you can put the covers back on without that step. The top cover is grooved to accept the gasket, just make sure it is properly and fully in the grove before tightening the cover down.

You need about 3-4 extensions and a wobble knuckle with tape on it to keep it almost straight to get to the rear cam chain tensioner...go in next to the swing arm and a flashlight helps a ton.

If it's a 2012+ the tuperware is a pain in the ass, so I just removed the 2 bolts holding the entire faring/instruments/windshield then bungee'd it up and back to the handlebars. Even with that it's still a pain to get to the front cylinder but it can be done with the faring partially out of the way. All of my exhaust valves were at the last spec on the tight side, so I put them all back to the middle of spec. Intakes were fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I did the valve check at 16k or thereabouts it was still with in spec.... so I left it.... Cross your fingers :)
That's what I'm hoping for. I have read that hot starts are a sign of tight clearances, all I have to do is bump the starter and it'll fire right up.

I have FAITH!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
The results are in.

My service manual specs them at
.1-.2mm intake
.2-.3mm exhaust.


Front:
Intake both at .006 .152mm

Exhaust both .008 .203mm goes with no drag .009 wont go so 1/2 way between .0085 216mm.



Rear:
Intake both at .005 .127mm

Exhaust (sitting on the bike) left .008 .203mm with slight drag, right .008 .203mm lots of friction .007 .1778 will go without friction
so I'm thinking .0075++ .190mm++.


Looks like my intakes are great and the exhaust are low to dead low but in spec, the right rear is squeaking into spec.

There's a reason for operating range specifications and mine are in even if one is dead low.

My next check I know I'll be doing shims but right now I'm going to button it up and ride it. I'm a machinist by trade and in tolerance is the goal.


I put the new plugs in, I had to see what the old ones looked like and they're about perfect in color but the gap was slightly above the middle spec. I didn't want to put old plugs back in when I had new ones on the bench.

Tomorrow I'll put it back together. Took me about 2 hours so far.
 

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Lucky you that you did your own work. Guy in Oklahoma on the 800 BMW forum was crying about a dealer estimate of $1700 bucks for the 24K mile service.
Great Gack, no?
Took you a couple hours, you know the bike better and barring any goofs the bike will be a happy ride again! Congrats.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Lucky you that you did your own work. Guy in Oklahoma on the 800 BMW forum was crying about a dealer estimate of $1700 bucks for the 24K mile service.
Great Gack, no?
Took you a couple hours, you know the bike better and barring any goofs the bike will be a happy ride again! Congrats.
Thanks, doing this service teaches you a lot I'm glad I did it. I've had problems and know to many people that have had problems letting others work on their vehicles so doing it myself I know it's done correctly, I hope :D.
 

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My rear valve cover was open and plugs out, I was checking clearance and everything was in spec. I look at the filler gauge and I see the bolt had come off. Heart attack. After about an hour using a pen magnet to locate it, I see the bolt laying on the rear swing arm...

So that was my 10 cents, be careful not to drop anything there.
 
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