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I installed my Happy Trail skid plate today. What a bear of a job! Let's be a bit honest here, working on a cold garage floor did not make any of it easier. That said, I think there are a couple of things that can be added to their instructions, so I wrote them up. Don't misunderstand me, more than a little of this is tongue-in-cheek and is not meant to be pejorative. You can guess the problems I ran into as you read what I wrote.

The instructions are located here: LINKY

My additions:
Note after Step 1:
Note 1: Suzuki used copious amounts of thread locker on these bolts. It is very helpful to have on hand a long 1/2” breaker bar as well as a variety of ratchets with different handle lengths. The enormous torque required to loosen both bolts will not ease until the last few threads are engaged. Clearance under your bike is limited; removing the bolts will require brute strength, and lots of it. You might consider calling a bigger, stronger, friend for help, or apply a little heat to the bolt (be careful with open flames).
The center stand (or a rear wheel motorcycle stand) is necessary to install this skid plate. If you have a center stand, it will be possible to remove the two M12 bolts, despite the lack of clearance for your ratchet.

Note after Step 2:
Note 2: The OEM fender washer is considerably thicker and of higher quality than the replacement we have offered. You might consider keeping the former and reusing it.

Note after Step 3:
Note 3: Note that the horizontal arms of the Rear Mount Plate must point toward the rear. Before you install the RMP, check to see that the two mounting holes match those on the back of the kickstand bracket (use the kickstand to check this). If there is not sufficient clearance for the bolts in the bracket’s holes, when you try to insert them into the frame holes, they will be canted at an angle and you will never be able to get them through the frame mount’s holes or to thread into the kick stand. If they are an interference fit, clamp the bracket in a vise and, using a rat tail file, enlarge the holes to provide adequate clearance. Threadlocker (not provided) will be a helpful addition to the lock washer. While Suzuki’s bolts required a 17mm socket, our replacements need a 19 mm socket. The time to discover this is not when you are on your back, half under the motorcycle. Suzuki calls for these bolts to be torqued to 100 n-m (72.5 lb-ft). There is no way you will be able to do this, unless you have a pet gorilla helping you. Again, don’t forget thread locker on these bolts.

Note after Step 4:
Note 4: It will be very helpful if you have a cardboard box, pillow or blocks of wood to hold the skid plate off the ground.

Note after Step 8:
Note 8: For the right side of the bike - use some tape to hold the 8mm nylock nut in an open end wrench and offer this to the bolt as you turn the bolt with your hex key. This will save your quiet words of endearment to things mechanical for other times. Be sure to remove the tape from the exhaust pipe area. A piece of solid copper wire will be useful to fish the nut out of the skid plate each time you drop it.

Note after completion: Congratulations, you’re done. Time for a beer!!!
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