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09 vstrom 650 forks Race Tech Gold Valve installation

2076 Views 10 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  Brockie
After putting in new Progressive springs and GVEs and 150ccs 10 wt fork oil in the forks still do not work.
If I push down on the bars the forks feel like solid rods, you can not bounce the forks down .
Air lock ? maybe
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Not an air lock. Possibly too much fork oil or front axle clamped with forks misaligned.

Did you check the oil height with the spring removed and the fork tube compressed into the stanchion?
The OEM fork oil volume is 524ml per leg, and the level within the tube, with fork tube fully compressed and the spring removed is 143mm.

What is a GVE?
If this does not help more information on what you have done please.
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Race tech gold valve emulator, oil set per gve speck at 150mm
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So it is not 150cc of oil but 150mm oil level with the spring removed?
I am not familiar with the gold valve installation so I hope that someone here who has done it can offer advice. Otherwise ask Race Tech for advice.
My forks also developed a similar problem to yours after after a fluid change (10w) at 30K miles. I tried various brands and weights of fluids, various fork alignment techniques, but I did remedy it eventually by replacing bushings. It returned after the next fluid change, but new bushings didn't fix it this time, so not even sure that was the cure the first time. I know the forks can, and did, work well for my 150lbs, the problem isn't springs or valves. I wish I could give you an real solution.

My problem is small bumps won't compress the forks so everything is transmitted upwards, giving a slightly annoying, harsh ride. Your problem seems much more severe. Out of curiosity, if you crack the fork caps just enough for air to pass through, will the fork compress?
Possibilities are:
  1. Fork oil level should be 150mm with springs installed and tube fully compressed. This may (unlikely) or may not correspond to the 150cc that you used.
  2. Binding due to incorrect installation of front wheel. Loosen the front axle hardware and see if it frees up fork movement.
  3. Too much preload, spacers are too long. Did you have to compress the springs very much to get the caps back on the fork tubes?
  4. Something wrong with GVE install. It's not a particularly straight-forward install, damper rods must be drilled, adapters may be required, etc.
After putting in new Progressive springs and GVEs and 150ccs 10 wt fork oil in the forks still do not work.
If I push down on the bars the forks feel like solid rods, you can not bounce the forks down .
Air lock ? maybe
The way you wrote that it sounds like you changed the springs and poured in 150 cc of oil. If that is all you did you could very well get the result you described. Actually, almost assuredly.

The old oil has to be removed/drained. As above, install springs and fill with new oil to the level specified and tubes fully compressed. Then reassemble.
I have installed GVEs and springs in KYB forks for around 20 yrs and never had a problem, this is my first turn with showas,
The fork tubes were completely apart and cleaned, damper rods drilled and new bushings, seals, dust covers installed, one bushing was real tight, every thing put back using Race tech specs.
Shortly after one seal started to leak, so this weekend I will pull them back apart and sand tubes with 600 paper and I will fix this problems or put GSXR forks on it.
Sanding the tube is not going to do anything. Something is assembled wrong and/or the wrong amount of oil was added.
Sanding the tube is not going to do anything. Something is assembled wrong and/or the wrong amount of oil was added.
I will have them off tomorrow and will do each one with extreme care.
the sanding seems to work on hondas and victorys to get seal to seal, 600 paper
To set oil level refer to a.pdf from my service manual in post #2 above.
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