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Discussion Starter #21
I have another pump on the shelf, I’ll swap it out and see while I have the tank off. I originally thought the fuel pump as a culprit, but that’s the time the TPS went out... When I had the new pump in, the pressure regulator popped off inside the tank. I put the original pump back in as the TPS got replaced, and pressure tested the original pump to about 46 psi, the strong side of within spec. It’s free to swap the pump out again, so I’ll give it a try. 🙂
Replaced the fuel pump and both coils. A beautiful central Florida day yesterday yielded an opportunity for 100+ miles to go out and ride, play around and see what I could learn.
The problem remains unchanged.
I did notice it seems more likely to happen on a demanding downshift from 6th to 5th landing around 8k it will miss 5 or 6 times without a substantial loss of power. However.... it will pull from mid range or lower to redline without a noticeable miss.
I verified all my vacuum lines are in good condition while I had it apart. So I’m wondering if the one of CKP/CMP/IAP sensors could be the culprit as they play the primary role in modifying injection timing.
 

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That sounds like you have too much fuel flooding a cylinder or two on close of throttle.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
I like the theory. I have tried both a paper air filter and K&N with the stock fuel map and with the power commander maps noticing the K&N leans it out quite a bit. One thing I haven’t tried is leaning it out further from 8k to redline. That’s a quick adjustment, I’ll give it a shot this weekend.
I hope you understand how much I appreciate the insights!
 

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I have a PCFC fitted to my 2014 and when the bike was put in to have the wiring under the tank replaced under the safety recall they managed to reverse the plugs between the secondary plates and the TPS, my bike behaved much like yours but much worse that is what got me thinking of too much fuel.

As I said earlier I often use air filter changes to work out if it is a rich or lean situation.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
I’m getting to my wits end... I had the opportunity to head out on the turnpike with unusually low traffic in a long straight with very few hiding spots for troopers.
i took it up to 8k in 4th and 5th and just ran there for a bit. I guess it just doesn’t have the necessary load accelerating through 1,2,3 to replicate the problem.The hesitation is always there. You have to accelerate, cruising won’t do it. Any noticable acceleration AT 8k will produce a miss like hesitation briefly.
Since my last post I have tried re-routing the wiring harnesses EXACTLY as specified in the service manual. Re routing the HT spark plug wires EXACTLY as specified in the service manual. Replacing the spade connectors going to the coils with soldered and heat shrinked new connectors. Verifying no resistance anywhere between the coils and ECU. Remapping the power commander leaner from 8k/80% to 10k/100% 5% leaner than previous (running chef’s OMG map already) so around 10% lean over stock in that range. I verified TPS is correct again (that’s easy). I double checked and NGKCR8E-IX are resistor plugs. I swapped back to K&N filter to lean the overall mixture slightly.
No change.

I’m leaning torward to electrical interference app I ordered a small oscilloscope to watch the signals from the various sensors. For the life of me i have no idea what happens at 8k that doesn’t happen at other RPM.
I have already bypassed the known problematic connectors to the rectifier and wired the rectifier straight to the battery. I have a mosfet rectifier, also.
I have never been so stumped.
 

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It would be interesting to have a test result of the 8K test, with the power commander disconnected, plus all accessories turned off.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
It would be interesting to have a test result of the 8K test, with the power commander disconnected, plus all accessories turned off.
I plan to take it back down to stock to start chasing interference... not that that’s a huge amount of electrical accessories. The previous owner seemed to want a gold wing worth of accessories, all of which were removed when I took ownership. I have only a the timing retard eliminator and power commander, speedo calibrator, and a 12v power outlet/voltmeter.
The mess I removed when I purchased the bike was excessive to say the least. Hopefully this week I can strip it apart.
Also overnight I was reading and the gap on NGK iridium is .031 stock and the Vee calls for .024-.028 so that’ll be adjusted as well.
 

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Be careful. Many auto manufacturers recommend that you should not gap iridium plugs as the electrode is so thin and brittle.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
So that was my thinking in leaving them alone originally... I’m willing to try about anything, though, at this point. It’s really starting to discourage me having spent this much time on the bike and not making progress forward on such a stupid problem. I don’t even run the bike at 8k but it kills me knowing it has the hesitation it does.
 

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So that was my thinking in leaving them alone originally... I’m willing to try about anything, though, at this point. It’s really starting to discourage me having spent this much time on the bike and not making progress forward on such a stupid problem. I don’t even run the bike at 8k but it kills me knowing it has the hesitation it does.
Frustrating for sure. Try to only make one change at a time, though. At least then you will have some idea what the actual cause was.
 
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