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Discussion Starter #1
I made a short video of the problem because my mechanical lingo isn't very good: https://youtu.be/VVFCstxrZZg

When I turn the killswitch to "on", I get the typical fuel pump(?) sound. However when I hit the ignition switch, I get that same sound again, but with a "click" presumably from the starter. If I hold ignition it will go continuously. Sometimes after doing this and turning the killswitch to "off", I'll hear 3-5 clicks in succession.

I've already tried the following:

1. The clutch sensor plug under the clutch lever. If I completely detatch it, the ignition button does nothing at all, so it's not that.

2. I've put my bike in dealer mode, but the C00 (no error) code is present. I do get a blinking red FI code after holding the ignition button enough however. When in dealer mode the C00 code didn't change.

3. Detatched/reattached the battery, in case.

4. Push started from 1st and 2nd. Still same "ignition sounds like kill switch" issue.


I'm pretty sure it's a starter issue. I can hear clicks but that's it. I've seen some suggestions about the jumping the solenoid relay...I have no idea what or where that is. I know where the starter is so if there is anything I can do to test it, please explain it like I'm 5.

Thanks!
-monti
 

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How old is the battery and have you recharged it since running these test? If it is anywhere near 5 years I would just replace the battery. Step one is to rule out the battery and make sure you charge it up between testing or it will confound your results.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I just charged the battery yesterday. I'm not sure how old it is, I bought the bike in July.
 

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I suspect that your battery may be dead.

Try another battery or use jumper leads connecting your auto battery directly to your bike + and - leads after removing them from your bike battery. Use lots of rags or an old towel across the bike frame to prevent the leads earthing anywhere.
Attempting to charge a battery that has a faulty cell will never make it serviceable.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the reply. I'm taking the battery to an OReillys, hopefully they can test it. I don't have a car to jump it on
 

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If your battery is good, you're probably looking at either stator failure or migrated rotor magnets, or a combination of both. Very definitely, your starter is not getting enough juice and that may be because the battery is not being charged.

Not able to view your video at the moment, but that's your next step if the battery tests alright.
 

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You need a V meter and read the resting voltage of the battery, voltage when you turn on the ignition and lights and voltage when trying to start.

I second assuming the battery is bad but only data can tell if tis is true or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Alrighty. Got myself a multimeter. Certainly a battery (or related) issue. When the key is OFF it reads 12V. When I turn the key to ON it gradually decreases in voltage. Flipping the killswitch to the on position essentially kills the battery. It's much more obvious seeing it's a power issue now that I've tried it so much. The neutral light fades when I touch the brakes.

Now, how do I test to see if it's only the battery, or something else? I have a battery tender hooked up but even when that is plugged in, I get the same symptoms as described above (it doesn't start). Thanks a bunch for your help.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Follow-up on my last comment, I'm honestly not sure if the battery tender can act like a jump when it's plugged in to an outlet
 

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A battery tender will not act like a jump. A battery tender only produces a very small amperage, like .2 amps. It is designed only to keep a battery in good health by replacing residual draw that occurs to any battery with a current path. Anyway, no, the battery tender will not "jump" a battery.
 

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If your battery is at 12v, it's dead, ether get a charger or have it tested, a charged battery should read 12.6ish if taken at the battery with the switch off. then with a charged battery or a new one, after you get it started, the meter should read 13-14v, if lower, with a charged battery, you have a problem with the charging system, but the first thing is to get a know charged battery.
 

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Back in the day, me and my students took an old, known to be bad automobile battery and completely drained and cleaned the insides. Yes, this was back when car batteries had serviceable caps. So a drained, cleaned by rinsing repeatedly, and now dry battery maintained a 12 volt reading for several weeks. The voltage would show on a meter but the amperage available would barely dimly light a single automotive interior light bulb. Anything else, the battery simply could not do it. But the meter read the same. Amperage under load is what you are looking for and is harder to measure with the simple multimeter. My anecdotal guess is a dead (shorted) internal cell within the battery.
 

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Keep a close eye on the new battery. A faulty charging system may have done in the old battery. You may not be out of the woods yet.

But I hope you are. :smile2:
 

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Those no start problems can get expensive. On a camping trip one feller's Wee wouldn't start. All the experts messed with it a bit and decided to take it to a dealer.
By the time he got the bike back it cost him a few hundred dollars for a battery, a tire and some other things the dealer suggested he needed.
I tried suggesting we just disconnect the battery and jumper from one of the other bikes to the wires leads. Coulda saved him a bundle because he could have gotten a workable battery at the auto store or Wally mart.
I had a battery crap on the ferry boat going to Port Angeles from Victoria BC I got a battery box and a car battery and strapped it to the back of the seat to get me by until I got home from the trip.
I'm a firm believer in the KISS philosophy, Keep it simple, stupid.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Got the new battery installed, still the same symptoms, except the battery reads as follows.

Key off: 12.54v
Key on: 12.13
Killswitch on: 12.09
Hitting ignition: 12.17
 
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