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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Yesterday, on the way back from WV, engine died on red light. I actually felt that throttle was unresponsive at and below 4000 RPM since I usually power downshift...

I rode for another 50 or somiles and drained the tank at about 130 miles mark. When I stopped, I turned the ignition off, rotated the throttle all of way and let go a couple of times. I didn't have and more problems since.

I've had it a couple of times since 2009, and maybe I just need to replace the sensor...

Please, per what I wrote, do you think it's the TPS and where to buy one online?

Thanks.

Bike has 51000 no problem miles on it
BTW, I rode some dusty roads before returning, can dust particles affect, maybe I just need to clean the sensor, or it's seat, or something?
 

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I have an '07 and that's exactly what mine did until I had the TPS sensors (there are 2 of them) replaced. I rode it for over a year like that, because it only happened after extended (hour or more) rides at high speed (60+ mph).

Both TPS were replaced about 1.5 years ago, the problem has never returned.
 

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There is really only one TPS. The top one is an STPS and I haven't heard of any running problems with the latter unless I missed yours.
 

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There is really only one TPS. The top one is an STPS and I haven't heard of any running problems with the latter unless I missed yours.
Actually I asked you which one I needed quite a while ago when I was ready to fix the issue, but didn't hear back. Anyway, when Riva did their diags, they said both needed replacing. The parts weren't that much, so I figured since they were in there, they might as well do both.
 

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The TPS has the safety torx bit screws. A torx with a center pin. Harbor frieght had them in an assortment set of bits. Its the lower of the two sensors on the TB with the top one being the STPS.

I figured mine needed to be replaced to as I had these same symptoms and it had around 50,000 miles on it. I checked the settings first with the dealer mode setting using the dash readout from the clock. They were way off. The TPS was still tight so I have no idea why they were off.

Since I had nothing to lose, I reset my TPS per recommendations here. That was 18,000 trouble free miles ago.

P.S. you can replace the TPS or adjust by going in through the fairing plastic horizonatlly from the side with a 1/4 inch mini ratchet and the right choice of extensions. No plactic removal required...and mine has crash bars on it. You will need to trust your hands as you won't be able to see much.
 

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The TPS is basically a potentiometer, or variable resistor. When the wiper sits in one place most of the time, throttle fully shut in the case of a bike, that place gets more wear and crud accumulation resulting in inconsistent resistance values. Rotating the throttle a few times can bring things back. It's like an old radio with a volume knob that doesn't work right. The volume will taper off unless it it twisted a few times and then it comes back for a while.
 

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The TPS is basically a potentiometer, or variable resistor. When the wiper sits in one place most of the time, throttle fully shut in the case of a bike, that place gets more wear and crud accumulation resulting in inconsistent resistance values. Rotating the throttle a few times can bring things back. It's like an old radio with a volume knob that doesn't work right. The volume will taper off unless it it twisted a few times and then it comes back for a while.
Pardon my question, but what does that potentiometer measure? What is the purpose of TPS Sensor?
 

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The ECM uses the voltage value from the TPS to determine how far open the throttle butterfly is as one of the parameters in determining how much fuel to supply to the combustion chambers.
 

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The ECM uses the voltage value from the TPS to determine how far open the throttle butterfly is as one of the parameters in determining how much fuel to supply to the combustion chambers.
I see.

So in a ride-by-wire bike the TPS is not needed in the throttle butterfly because the throttle essentially moves to the throttle (grip on the handle bar)?
 

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I have no ride by wire bike experience but the ECM needs to "know" how far the butterflies are open no matter how they are actuated.
 

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Those are classic symptoms of a TPS problem.
I have a slightly different symptom, but I'm thinking its is TPS related as well.

When coming to a stop when I pull the clutch in the rev's go into a high idle, anywhere from 2400 - 3000 rpm. If I let the clutch out just enough to engage it and pull the clutch back in then the idle returns to 1200-1300 rpm and idles perfectly.

Doesn't happen all the time, but becoming more frequent. TPS?

Thanks
 

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I have a slightly different symptom, but I'm thinking its is TPS related as well.

When coming to a stop when I pull the clutch in the rev's go into a high idle, anywhere from 2400 - 3000 rpm. If I let the clutch out just enough to engage it and pull the clutch back in then the idle returns to 1200-1300 rpm and idles perfectly.

Doesn't happen all the time, but becoming more frequent. TPS?

Thanks

Your TPS could be starting to fail, but you may simply need to adjust yours. Also, you may need to adjust the idle speed at the same time -- this tends to change as the weather becomes warmer. There's no Idle Air Control (IAC) system on a Vee, so it's normal to need to tweak the idle speed a couple of times a year. That's why the adjuster is so easily accessible.


Also, this was alluded to earlier... when I replaced my TPS, I replaced those furshlugginger security screws with allen head screws.

With a long 4mm ball ball end t-handle, I can loosen the screws from the left side of the bike, and then tweak the TPS with my fingers without removing any tupperware. A properly trained assistant and/or an elaborate system of mirrors is needed, though. Mechanic's gloves are nice, too, since the radiator hose gets pretty hot. :mrgreen:
 

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I have a slightly different symptom, but I'm thinking its is TPS related as well.

When coming to a stop when I pull the clutch in the rev's go into a high idle, anywhere from 2400 - 3000 rpm. If I let the clutch out just enough to engage it and pull the clutch back in then the idle returns to 1200-1300 rpm and idles perfectly.

Doesn't happen all the time, but becoming more frequent. TPS?

Thanks
Not ordinarily TPS. A hang at 2500rpm is symptomatic of a too high idle setting. try closer to 1100 in the 1100-1300 allowable range. Other possibilities are a bad fast idle adjustment or a TBS adjustment that eliminated the free space in the throttle resting place.
 
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