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Discussion Starter #1
2weeks ago I bought a very well maintained and farkled 2007 dl650a with 30K kms. It was the first time I had even ridden a Wee. It seems great to me set-up as is but then I don't have much experience. I asked the dealer if he could find out some details about the bike including the weight of the previous owners but he wasn't able to tell me anything. I believe most of the work done to this bike was by the first owner who used to be a member here (YYZ Dave).

From what I can see and from what was in the original owners info there is:
An Elka 3-way rear spring with remote reservoir
A Superbrace
Race-Tech Emulators and Springs
Scotts Steering Stabilizer












Here is a copied post, describing his Elka install
"I wound the collar down 9mm and ended up with 30mm of sag (using no hydraulic pre-load). I didn't have my riding gear on or my topbox installed, so I should be right in the ballpark. This will leave me all of the hydraulic pre-load to adjust for 2-up riding and touring luggage. "


So. . . now I am wondering about the suspension and if it needs to be tweaked for me? and also how I change it for different riding conditions? I mostly ride solo on paved roads but have already ridden it on gravel roads and 2-up and is how I will continue to ride. I was surprised how good the bike felt 2-up. I weigh almost 200 lbs before gear and wear a 32 inch inseam pant and I just barely flat-foot it when my weight is on the gel seat.

Any tips where to start?
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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The first thing to do is to set the sag. The Science and Black Magic of Suspension Setup

The shock's hydraulic preload knob is in your second picture. The forks have preload screws on the top in your last picture. If you need less preload on the shock than the hydraulic adjuster will allow, you'll need to let up on the manual adjuster. Unless you compress the springs turning the manual adjuster will also turn the hydraulic collar and that can't be done with the shock in place because the collar has a hose on it. The hose position needs to keep the same angle so the collar has to be moved in full turns. There is also a set screw in the manual collar to keep it from turning on its own. I hope you can get the sag in range with the hydraulic unit alone.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Like so many others before me, I too thank you greywolf.

I am guessing that I should use the sag values recommended by Elka (25-35mm for both front and rear) and not those in the helpful link that you found and attached?
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Your travel on a Wee is more like 150mm rather than the 160mm of the Vee in that article. 25% of that is 37.5mm so they do seem at odds. The idea is to avoid topping out or bottoming out the suspension. I would more toward the 35mm end of things and see how that goes if the Elka can be set there with the external adjuster. I'd only play with the manual collar if the suspension was topping out at the lowest preload setting with the lightest load or bottoming out on the highest setting with the greatest load. I had an Elka on my old bike and it was fine at 40mm laden.
 

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40mm of total sag works well on the Stroms.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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I wonder if that 25-35mm was a general street bike figure. Stroms have more travel than the typical street bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Great, thanks!
That's 40 front and rear?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Oh yeah, so when I am on 1) dirt roads or 2) 2-up (how) should I be adjusting the suspension(s) once i get the preload right?
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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For 2 up, you'll need more rear preload to get 40mm of sag with both of you on the bike. The front will stay the same as the exrta load really doesn't affect the front. 40mm with the load you'll be carrying for street or dirt should be fine. You might want to establish what preload settings will give you 40mm with the various passenger and luggage loads you'll be running.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Terrific info. Much appreciated!
 

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Wonderful Setup

Greywolf, as he always is, is right on. I too have a K7 and want to have all the suspension adds you have. I paid a Dunlap guy at a track day to set up my K7 and he did a bunch of measuring with me on and off the bike. I would avoid every manhole cover I could because I had about an 1 in of travel before hitting the stop in the rear. I still avoid manhole covers but the ride is much plusher than it was. Nice thread between you two guys.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yup, thanks and to greywolf and Rich!!
Well, i had 38mm rear without adjusting anything, but could only get 32mm front (but without wearing any gear) with the fork adjuster screws turned fully counterclockwise to the stops. So I am close. But if I want to get the front preload to 40mm what do I have to do???
 

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If you want to get 40mm on the front, you'll need a lighter spring.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
That's what I thought...
Thanks again!!
 

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First double read the length GW posted

Looking at the pic of ELKA shock (which i have the same ) there is a lot of preload dialed in - and i dont mean the remote adjuster - this is the red collar screwed down from the top - it looks like more like 10 -15mm or more to me. but u can measure it (pic sometimes can distort things).

From my own experience, you find that even with no additional preload dial in from both red collar and remote adjustor, there is effectively about 14mm of preload once the spring is installed (compare to free length). note that ELKA use Eibach spring 0700 225 xxx, which means its free length is 178mm - if you can measure the compressed length, you can accurately work out the preload utilised.

So your measured sag (assuming rider sag) of 38 mm is achieved with a preload of 24-29mm or more - which may indicate your current rear spring is too light. Elka's handbook refers to no more than 15mm preload - i find around 20mm preload (at the shock) is more suited to my strom.

If you take the spring out, someone can measure the rate and work out whether it is roughly correct for your weight

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In terms of the front fork spring, i would do a couple more step before changing.

While your preload adjustor maybe wound back out to the max, the preload spacer inside can be long and therefore a lot more preload used than what it seem like.

I would support the bike so that the front wheel is totally off ground - take off the preload adjustor and the preload spacer and measured the amount of preload used to achieved your measured sag. I never quite know what the appropriate preload figure should be since strom has a top-out spring to confuse things for me. Perhaps RichDesmond can answer.

Even better, when u take the spring out - it might be a sonic spring and has the rating stamp on it -.

Of course go out and ride a bit to get an idea of how the spring feel to you, before making changes.

The thing about just looking at sag is that within certain range, you can always use preload to get it to the setting u want - it doesnt mean it is optimal for you though.
 

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The correct preload is the same on seal or dirt.

Damping (both settings) may need to be less off road.

Find a rutted section of road, blast up it and adjust the settings until the bike no longer chatters over the ruts. That's usually softer on rebound and compression than good feeling road settings.

Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks Pete, that's great practical info!!
 
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